JED8345ADW14 Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

The lids are fastened to the underside of the unit by rivets....3 to each lid.
I used a cordless drill and small drill bit to drill through the rivets to remove the old lids and remains of the rivets.
The new lids are easily fastened back using a rivet gun ( about $20 in Lowes) using small 1/8th aluminum rivets.
No real problems.
1 thing to note is that the drill bit will pass through the old rivet by about 1/4 inch before it comes up against the upper level of the BBQ floor so do not drill any deeper.The aluminum rivets are easy to drill through and you will easily feel when the rivet is drilled through.

The only fan switch available for Jenn-Air was electrically compatible (amps, high/low control) with my 15 year old unit, but the existing mounting plate needed to be modified. The original switch was an undermount and the replacement switch snapped in from the top. This modification required a 1/2" drill bit and a file to square off the edges. Since the plate was cast from soft aluminum, it was fairly easy. Also, one of the spade connections needed to be changed (part supplied). It now looks good and works fine.

Turned off the power. Removed the assembly with two screws then removed the switch with two screws. Pulled off the wires. Put on the new switch and lights and reconnected the wires. Reattached the assembly. Turned on the power. All OK.

removed 2 screws from back of control plate. (screws located inside vent intake area.) lifted control plate unplugged broken light. slipped new light through hole in control plate plugged in light then replaced control plate. Takes about 5 minutes

The 15-year-old Jen-Air stove started smelling really bad. I thought it was a dead animal stuck in the exhaust tube which runs under the floor to the outside. I flushed it out with clorine bleach, but it was still bad. It turned out to the be the grease filter. I washed it every week in the diswasher, but it just was not enough to get it clean enough. Finally, the grease went rancid and smelled really bad. This "repair" took about 30 seconds.

:-) - Just removed the old one and replace with the new one. Nothing to it. Takes 30 seconds.

Turn off power, removed wires from switch, unscrewd lock nuts. Did the reverse to put the new switch with the exception of the the power which should always be turned off first. Took less than 5 min. to install. Wife happy!! which makes me happy.

Extremely easy.
First, I turned powr off to appliance at electric panel (don't trust switches).
Next, I removed the 2 screws that held the panel cover, removed the dials, and removed 2 screws at each one (total eight) - this requrid a hex screw driver bit, which I had in my handy set.
I proceeded to loosen the panel, and disconnect the wires attached to the old switch (this may be tricky - mine came off easy, but did require care as to not to strip the wire from the clamp).
Once the old switch was removed and the plastic housing unscrewed, I attached the new fan assembly, and connected the wires, and reinstalled everything back in the same order.
(This is a good time to clean all the grease and dirt that has collected thru the years-before you put everything back).
Turned the power back on, and everything worked like before.
I figured I saved about 4 hours worth of labor (4x$50=$200 / minimum) plus any inflated part price I would have paid for a $20 part from PartSelect! It felt good!

After examining the burner unit I noticed that one of the male contact spades was burned and look deformed. After removing the spade I discovered that it had been originally manufactured incorrectly. I went on line to try and find the part. I found it at this site . I ordered 2 of the spades and replaced the deformed spade and another one that looked like it had gotten a little hot. She tried the unit and it worked perfectly. She had not used that burner unit for a very lengthy time. The investigation of the problem took a little time, but the repair went very fast. Moral is :" If a spade doesn't look right, it probably isn't", but either the individual spade or plug can be replaced. This site is now my "GO TO" place for parts.

Note that this model# is not my exact model#, I couldn't find it - but its almost identical to this newer version of my Maytag glasstop drop-in stovetop.

Also note that these instructions are VERY generic and not detailed, as most all stoves will be different in assembly.

Be advised that you are NOT getting the part you see in the picture. It is going to be a newer part that does the same thing. It's a lot smaller and has an offwhite top. It will STILL work, don't return it! The only difference is that the labels on the connections will be a little different - see the other post here on this page that shows how they differ and what to connect to what. Thanks to them I was able to complete this fix easily!

Close the breaker to the stove to ensure no electricity is running to the stove! Use a voltage tester to make extra sure no electricity is running through the cables, they are cheap at home depot!

Just disassemble your stovetop to get to the area that houses the switches. You will see the switch boxes underneath where your knobs go. Take a picture of all connections if you can so you remember where everything plugs in. You'll have about 3-6 cables connected to the switch depending on your stovetop. There are labels on the old switch (L1, L2, etc) at each electrical connector the cables attach to - probably on the top or bottom of the switch. Write down the connector label and what color wire its connected to. Do this for each connection.

If the old labels dont match your new labels, you have an older switch and need to check the other post on this page that someone posted showing how the old labels translate to the new labels.

Now reconnect everything back the same way you took them off and you are good to go!

Such a simple fix and you'll save hundreds.

Two screws inside the exhaust box to take out the switch assembly and 2 nuts on the switch. Nothing to it

Remove switch cover with two screws ,remove two nuts holding switch in place ,remove switch,then reverse procedure with new switch.

Flip the breaker. Lift off the fan center grate. Remove two screws located on back of the burner dials housing. Lift the back of the housing, then pull this gently away from the front to unhook the front. Turn this over, locate the switch. Pull the three electrical plug connections from the switch plastic housing, remembering their locations. Back off the two nuts holding the switch to the underneath side of the dials housing. Place the new one in place, put it all back together.

remove two nuts and install new switch, then change wire connections from the old switch to the new one.
Then place it back together.

I got the switch wired correctly, with much cussing. It worked - burner heated. But I couldn't get the new switch to fit back with the old ones neatly enough to close the box and secure it. Got help from someone with stronger hands but still couldn't get it to fit. On top of that I found that the new knobs didn't fit on the new switch - or even on the old switches. The old knob didn't fit on the new switch either. I gave up. Removed the new switch and took out the corresponding burner. Still have 3 burners that work.
Repair folks had warned me that I couldn't get parts. They didn't say that it would look like there was a replacement part but it wouldn't fit!