22305 Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

Did not need tools for this job. Simply lift burner element and remove old drip pan and put new one in its place. However - the drip pans that were shipped only fit on the left side of the range. The right side, where the grill attachment goes, is so shallow that the drip pans on that side hit the bottom plate beneath the burner element and would not let the element go down far enough to seat properly. I kept the two pans that don't fit for extras, but I still need shallower pans to fit on the right side.

This was so easy. I've looked for years in stores for these pans. I finally tried the Internet, found PartSelects and, holding my breath at what i'd find, voila'...perfect fit, perfect replacements. And it took just a couple days to arrive. I'll definately be back!
/John

Although only one side hinge had snapped, I replaced both sides with new oven door hinges. Followed the website video installation directions and all went well; the new hinges work perfectly.

1. Turned off electrical breaker at electrical service panel.
2. Tested stove top to verify correct breaker was off as well as cook top.
3. Removed front electrical connection panel @ cook top.
4. Disconnected wires to blower fan. (Before disconnection I color coded wires for correct reconnection)
5. Removed the bracket holding the armored cable (protecting motor wires) and removed wires (where connects to electrical connection box).
6. Removed 4 nuts @ blower motor housing and removed blower motor housing and fan.
7. Removed 3 screws that attached the blower fan to the blower motor housing noting or marking the position of the housing to the motor bracket in order to have the same placement position.
8. Pulled the 3 connecting wires from the armored cable protector to separate housing from motor.
9. Removed the fan assembly from the blower motor shaft by using an allen wrench carefully noting the distance from motor face to the fan.
10. Noting/marking the position of the motor mounting bracket connections unscrew the nut and screw that secures the bracket to the motor.
11. Reassemble in reverse order.
Note:
I taped the motor wires tightly together every 3 or so inches to be able to slide through the armored cable.
I also had to rotate the mounting bracket a little to be able to perfectly match the motor housing to the motor bracket.

The new fan motor works great but it's a little bit louder.

Bought a pair for needed door hinges for replacement. Found a DIY video on You Tube showing technique to replace. Door removal was a bit awkward but hinge replacement and door reinstallation was as detailed in video. Could not nor would not have tackled this project without video. Premium quality parts sent and received within days of ordering. Wife happy therefore so am I.

Oh this was a toughie and I was sweating it out.
With a delicate touch I removed the old knob and pushed on the new knob, 5 seconds

First I removed the two screws that hold the chrome piece that had the switch in it. I had to disconnect the two lights that light up when the elements go on, had to do that to get to the lock washers that hold the switch in place. Put the new switch in place but couldnt get the new lock washers on the both broke, had to go to the hardware store and get new ones just as little bit bigger, they went on slick. The switch works great again, buy new lock washers before you start

I watched a You Tube video,removed and dismantled the door, installed the new hinge. I forgot to remove the small pin which is similar to a rivet. When I tried to close the door it bent. Eventually, I remembered the shipping pin and pulled it out with any damage. Believe it or not, I had read about the shipping pin on customer comments on PartsSelect...Good luck, it is relatively easy!

Removed grill cover, two phillip screws on front end of the vent holding the switch assembly in place. Lifted the switch assembly and removed the two wires (plugged into lugs). Then removed the two universal nuts with a 3/8" nutdriver and removed the old switch. Cleaned area and put the new switch in place and replaced the universal nuts, then attached the wires. Replaced the switch assembly and the two holding screws. Then inserted the grill cover and Voila! Finished

It is so easy. Once I found the right size of filter from the website, I ordered it right away. It came in 3 days and I just need to take out the old one and insert the new one. No instruction is necessary. By the way, the price of the filter is one third of that from Jenn-air.

* Do not lose the supplied CERAMIC electric connecting nuts; they will not fry in the heat.

* Unplug the heating elements from the old receptacles, and remove any rings; unplug the cartridge by lifting up the back side and pulling gently toward the back of the stovetop.

* Unscrew the cartridge top from the cartridge base (about 12 screws) and the recepticals, and cut the old wire close to the old receptacle.

* If you have a spare magnetic thingy around, use it to hold the screws and not lose them.

* Screw in the new receptacles, route the newer wiring from the receptacles (use as much of the new wire as possible), back toward the wiring block on the cartridge plug.

* Recut the old wiring to accomodate the length of the new wiring, but leave at least 2-3" from the wiring block, if possible. Re-connect them using only the supplied CERAMIC electric nuts.

* The CERAMIC nuts allayed my fears about the effect of heat on a plastic nut; ceramic is designed for high-heat environments.

* Reverse the disassembly steps to reassemble and reinstall the cartridge.

I feel that the design of the indicator light, with the base attached to the bottom of the lens, is ingenious in that it eliminates the need for fasteners in that confined space, However, the plastic used for the base needs to be more flexible. Part of the base broke off in trying to force the base over the bottom of the lens. Fortunately, there was enough left on the base that I could slip it over the bottom of the lens and complete the installation.

You probably want to look inside as you read this. Most of it is straightforward, except the retaining clips.

First, I turned off the breaker switch. Opening the control housing, I disconnected the two leads and wrote down their orientation (one is silver, the other copper). In my JennAir model, an orange burner light is on either side of the fan switch. The white plastic on the rear is held on by their keyhole shape - just slide them the only way they can. This gives extra working room.

Since the switch plastic was already decayed, I snapped off the whole central square unit leaving the 2 portions held onto the posts by the metal retaining clips. Using a small flathead screwdriver, I pried up the plastic remnants, working around it until the retaining clips came loose/ broke.

The new unit fit perfectly and easily. The new retaining clips needed to be worked down a small circular file to spread the centers out enough for me to work onto the retaining posts. The file was just barely bigger than the existing hole. The clips can be broken if you are too rough or work them too much. After that, I used a pair of snub nosed pliers to push the clips down the posts. They required a considerable amount of force, but they aren't going anywhere anytime soon.

Reconnect the lights, reconnect the 2 leads, and check for any loose wires from other controls and loose parts. Reseat the control housing, turn on the breaker and test.

Followed other's instructions from the web site: First - turned off the power at circuit breaker; removed two screws from downdraft vent area; pushed the switch housing back towards vent and lifted; held replacement switch next to defective switch and removed and replaced one wire at a time; loosed switch collar-nut and swapped defective switch for new one. Only issue was the "rat's nest" of wires gave very little room to work, especially if you have average sized hands.

just replaced by hand .