JEC9530ADS Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Patricia from Elizabethton, TN
- Parts Used:
- WP7737P245-60
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
cracked knob
Pushed the knob down on the spindle. Second order in three years.
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- Customer:
- John from Whitesboro, TX
- Parts Used:
- WP7737P245-60
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Burner Knobs would crack in the middle
The original knobs were poorly made and kept braking. After the third set, which were very expensive for some plastic knobs, I read this web page for help. Based on what I learned and what I read, I glued the metal sleeve in the knob shaft with some super glue. I then wrapped the shaft with copper wire and spread some industrial glue over the copper wrapping, which looked like a spring around the shaft. I have had no problems in the last month. I hope it keeps up.
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- Customer:
- Richard from Harrisville, RI
- Parts Used:
- WP7737P245-60
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers
The female D stem fitting of the control knob cracked, we could not turn on / off or control temperature to that heated area.
We replaced the control knob with an exact replica from PartSelect at a very reasonable price – Thank you.
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- Customer:
- Walter from Spring, TX
- Parts Used:
- WP7737P245-60
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
plastic split
remove knobs from pkg, remove broken knobs from range insert new knobs wallah done.
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- Customer:
- Juan from Miami, FL
- Parts Used:
- W10823711
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Glass top stove burner not working
OMG you have no idea how grateful I am. My husband and I watched your how-to-video and decided that it looked pretty easy for us to replace on our own. We saved close to $200 between the flat fee for a service call plus labor. Thank you very much. We were also pleased how fast our part was shipped to us.
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- Customer:
- Jayson from Cape Coral, FL
- Parts Used:
- W10823711
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
1200 watt r/rear burner element has an opening in the elementg
Shut off 220 volt power to range. Removed two screws for cooktop element access. Used needle-nose pliers to remove power (2) and control (2) lugs and wires. Remove defective cooking element module, replaced. Reverse steps for new unit.
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- Customer:
- Veronica from Midlothian, TX
- Parts Used:
- W10823711
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Surface element was out
Disconnect the power.took the cooktop off the range. Turned it over. Removed the underside plate. Disconnected the bad element. Pluged inthe new element. Replaced the under plate. Reconnected the range to the stovetop .put cooktop in place. Reattached screws. Turned on power. Worked perfectly.
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- Customer:
- Carolyn from Rockville, MD
- Parts Used:
- W10823711
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Surface element with Limiter - 6" - 1200W went out
First, I turned the circuit breaker off to the range. Then, I pulled the range out so that I could get to the screws which held the glass top in place. They were located on the sides of the range. I had to remove the trim pieces on the sides to get to the forward screws. Once that was done, I lifted the glass top, unplugged the wire harness, flpped it over on a protected surface. I noted the numbers on the old coil where the clips held it in place and put the clips on the new coil in the same place. The old wires just clipped on to the new coil exactly as they clipped on to the old coil. I put it all back together and it works great! I am a 70 year old woman who did this all by myself. You young guys should have no problem.
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- Customer:
- John from Nashville, TN
- Parts Used:
- W10823704
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Lower left Surface Element burnt
1. Remove power from unit. 2. Removed 1/4" sheet metal screw from lower blower vent tube. 3. Lifted the unit above the counter and placed two 1x2" boards between the unit and counter. To remove the Stove Top to get access to the Element you must remove 8 each 1/4" sheet metal screws from the bottom side of the Stove Top attaching flange. 3 each screws on the forward and aft side and 1 each on the left and right side. (Note, the 8 each 1/4" attaching screws are at the top of the Stove Top attaching flange.) 4. Remove the Vent Grill and locate the 2 each cross point screws on the center left and right side of the opening. (Note. Due to the limited space, I used a right angle cross point driver.) 5. Remove Stove Top. 6. Tag electrical connections. Remove and replace Element. 7. Turn on power and check Element. Remove power and Reassemble Unit.
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- Customer:
- Helga from Litchfield Park, AZ
- Parts Used:
- WP7737P245-60
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
Broken PLASTIC Burner Knobs
My mother is a great cook that is always in a hurry ... and I know that she is not always pushing those plastic knobs DOWN before turning them. Frustrated with reordering these expensive plastic knobs,I decided to get smart. I reordered 6 knobs (this is the 3rd time in 2 years). These knobs are designed to break. I decided to reinforce the plastic that goes around the knob shafts. At first, I thought about using some rigid metal bird bands like on a parrot. I second thought that this would be too difficult to find the perfect size to fit the outside diameter of the knob, so I decided to buy slightly smaller diameter, tightly coiled, sturdy, steel springs to fit around the plastic that fits onto the shafts. I manipulated each spring to become slightly larger to fit over the plastic by twisting the spring in the direction of uncoiling it. Not permanently unbending it, but just enough to make it grow in diameter to fit around the outside. I clipped the excess wire from the spring with wire cutters and reinforcerd everything with a coat of good strong epoxy . It seems that the metal spring and epoxy bonded to the knob became SOLID AS A ROCK. I figured, if the plastic can't split from the D- SHAPED shaft, then we have a knob that is as good as if it were made out of metal.
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