C206-C Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

1. Removed all four switch knobs (to be replaced with new knobs purchased with the replacement switch.(unnecessary if you are not going to replace all the knobs)
2. Removed the switch plate assembly by removing two sheet metal screws.
3. Inverted plate assembly and removed five wires and then removed two additional screws that secured the faulty switch to the plate assembly.
4. Reconnected the five wires and attached the new switch to the plate assembly.
5. Re-positioned the assembly on the cooktop and secured with the two sheet metal screws.
GAME OVER!

I removed the screws that hold the escutcheon assembly in place and lifted it from the range top. I slipped the wire connectors from the old switch and removed the push nuts. Removing the push nuts was the most difficult part. I wedged a small screwdriver under them and made enough space to cut them off with wire cutters (DON'T CUT THE POLES THE PUSH NUTS ARE ATTACHED TO!). There may be an easier way to remove them, but I'm a rookie and don't know what the easier way would be.

I attached the wires back to the same poles on the new switch as they were positioned on the old switch and pushed on the push nuts that came with the new switch to hold it in place. There isn't much room to work with so I used a small socket from a socket wrench set to hold the new push nuts in place while I pushed them on. The push nuts I received with the new switch were really too small. I forced one on, but broke the other one. I bought another slightly larger one at my local hardware store and it worked great.

I reattached the escutcheon assembly and was back in business. Overall, it took me about 30 minutes.

The repair was very easy to perform, but the springs in the new hinge were not as strong as the old one. The door would not close all the way unless you held it closed. The hinge looked identical but spring had less tension.

Worst part of the job was removing the old screws that held the two old rectecles in place for the two burners I repaired. Once the screws were removed cut the wires stripped them and used the porceliean wire nuts provided with the kit. Easy job and good instructions.

The contact spades were burned from 10+ years of use and the cook top module was worn. I disassembled the module, taped the top to protect the creamic cook top, sanded the metal and spray painted to restore the original white finish. On the bottom half I replaced one missing pop rivet and cleaned and spray painted the bottom to restore to the original black. When the contact spades arrived, I replaced the contact spades and reassembled the module. It now works and looks like it did when it was new.

I took out the side of the cooktop that did not work. I had to take off the bottom of the cooktop and checked where electricity was going and not going. Once I found the part that needed replacing, I went on the website, search for Jen-Air cooktops and model number. From the sketch on the website, I was able to order the part needed. I decided to get 2 in order to replace both parts at one time, just in case. The part arrived quickly and was easy to install. The most time I spent was taking the backside off the cooktop and cleaning it.

I removed the single screw on each side of the oven by the hinge to remove the hinge cover plate and expose the hinge opening. I lifted off the glass oven door up and out and set it on my work bench. The door is heavy because its glass so make sure the doors on the way to the garage are open to your work bench area. I installed the cover plates back on so i would not loose the little covers and screws. I removed the screws all around the door and set them in a cup and lifted up the inner part of the door and the hinges are exposed. After removing the screws that hold on the hinges it lifted right out. I cleaned all the glass and set the new hinges in and locked them down with the screws and installed back the inner part of the door to the outer part and returned all the screws back. I then removed they screws on the hinge covers. I did not loose them with 4 kids running around and lifted the door back into the hinge openings and pushed down and it locked in. I then put a little pressure down on the door and removed the little locking pins. I pushed the door all the down and installed the hinge covers back on and it works beautiful. I think the new hinges are better than the set that came with the Jenn-Air wall oven. Thanks Parts Select. Also the new hinges came in 3 days as promised.

Finding part needed and quick shipping were great. Web site so helpful. Initial attempt to remove old part was troublesome because I took out wrong screws thinking I had to remove parts beneath burner. Once I figured it out, it was so easy.
1. Turn off power.
2. Remove 4 screws BELOW control panel (open oven door to see them)
3. Pull off 7 front knobs.
4. Lift out loosened panel.
5. Take out the two screws holding control switch to front panel. Note orientaion of switch.
6. Replace wire by wire to new switch.
7. Put it all back together. Make sure switch is put in same direction.
8. Turn power on.

Turn off the power to the appliance. Remove the two screws from the control panel. Turn the panel over leaving all wires attached. Others have complained about the difficulty in removing the old push nuts and installing the new ones – this way worked quickly and easily for me: to get the old nuts off – take an awl and wedge it between the flat part of the push nut and the plastic mounting tab of the switch body. Pull the awl upwards until it is parallel with the mounting post. The push nuts will break, use needle nose pliers to remove the broken push nuts. Pull the old switch out noting the orientation. Place the new switch in place over the mounting posts. The new push nuts are not too small, it just takes some force to get them on (a good thing, it keeps the switch in place). Easy way to get the new nuts on: take a small nut driver that is the same diameter as the new push nuts on a straight handle, and use it to force the new push nuts onto the posts. Move the wires from the old switch to the new one. Turn the panel back over, replace the two screws, restore power to the appliance. It is a 10 minute job with the right tools.

removed 4 screws holding burner controls. removed wires off old and placed on new burner control. very pleased with quick shippig of part. two days and range was as good as new. excellent company to buy from

The repair was super-easy, the hardest part was removing the old screws and switch. I slid a putty knife under the old switch and used that to pry up while I unscrewed the nuts. The new switch was a very snug fit on the two studs, which was nice, but the nuts included with the new switch were too small as-is. I could have driven a punch through to increase the diameter, but I kept my old nuts and re-used them instead.

Changing the socket with a new one simply required removing one screw and splicing the two existing wires to the pigtails on the new socket. It took longer to unpack the replacement part than actually doing the job.

The lids are fastened to the underside of the unit by rivets....3 to each lid.
I used a cordless drill and small drill bit to drill through the rivets to remove the old lids and remains of the rivets.
The new lids are easily fastened back using a rivet gun ( about $20 in Lowes) using small 1/8th aluminum rivets.
No real problems.
1 thing to note is that the drill bit will pass through the old rivet by about 1/4 inch before it comes up against the upper level of the BBQ floor so do not drill any deeper.The aluminum rivets are easy to drill through and you will easily feel when the rivet is drilled through.

Problem was the neutral connector spike was burned and didn’t make good connection. Service man said he couldn’t get parts and charged $100 and left.
The neutral conductor cost about $12. And was an easy fix!

Thank you PartSelect!

First I turned off the circuit breaker at the control panel to my Jenn-Air stove-top. At 220-volts, don't take any chances with electricity!

Then I removed two screws that hold the burner switch panel in place and lifted up the panel to expose the wires that are connected to all 4 of the burner switches, the exhaust fan and pilot lights that indicate if a burner is turned on.

I used a circuit tester to determine that the power was indeed off to the switches. Again, it is extremely important to respect 220-volts of electricity.

I ensured that all of the wires were already labeled the same as the terminal connections on the switch (i.e. H-1, H-2, P, etc.). If they are not, label them yourself with masking tape around each wire. Then I removed each of the wires connected to the burned out switch with a pair of needle-nose pliers.

Next I removed the two screws attaching the burner switch to the panel.

To install the new switch, repeat all of these directions in reverse, making sure to attach each labeled wire to the correct terminal on the burner switch.

Turn the circuit back on at the circuit breaker. Then test the burner switch and see if the burner heats up. Hopefully, you'll be cooking in no time...............