JGD8348BDP Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

Simply remove the box containing the two right burners. Access the igniter by removing about 8 screws and pull the coupler for the igniter off with a pair of needel nose pliers. Replace with new igniter using the same tool. Re-assemble the box by screwing in the screws and give it a try. Worked great. Once slight hitch, be sure you don't leave a second screw driving in the box. As it will raddle. So I had to remove and reassemble twice. I'm not a surgeon! Thanks for the fast delivery!

remove grate - flip upside down - be sure holes are clean and dry - using toothpick, swab some RTV sealant into the holes and a bit on the pads ... insert pads till they seat - be sure to hold in place till all air is evacuated - wipe excess RTV with paper towel...DONE

It didn't. The grate pads (PN# PS389174) were too small for the grate (W10311216) and wouldn't work. (PN# recommended by Whirlpool parts department) The pads were smaller in diameter and shorter. Yes I could have glued them in, but because of the size the pads would be flat in no time. The only thing I could order from KitchenAid was the total grate. I ordered the pads late December, they were backordered. I got them the 1st week of February. I tried getting through to Whirlpool by calling to see if there was something I could reorder, but no luck, couldn't through. Am I unhappy? Oh some, but I handle it. Its not the first time I have been rode hard and put away wet.

Removed grill and set aside, then removed burner with a 1/4 counter clock twist. Removed ground wire and igniter wire from burner. Set to side in order taken off. Remove the two screws on the panel that is on the back of the unit and slide it up and set it aside. Removed screws from side decorative panels each side (one top and one bottom) and slide panel toward the rear to remove from notch slot. Then removed the two screws on each side and back to remove top of range. On the side there are two screws together towards the rear, the one towards the front of the range need to be removed. Then removed four screws that held the pan under the range top that were screwed into the gas line supports. Then removed the two screws from rear that held the pan in place. Remove the pan and set aside. Lift the right gas line burner support up. Remove ground bottom, hot wires upper and igniter wires from spark module. Pop module out and replace with new one. Reverse process to complete repair. Cause that the wires do not get under the pan when reinstalling same

The 15-year-old Jen-Air stove started smelling really bad. I thought it was a dead animal stuck in the exhaust tube which runs under the floor to the outside. I flushed it out with clorine bleach, but it was still bad. It turned out to the be the grease filter. I washed it every week in the diswasher, but it just was not enough to get it clean enough. Finally, the grease went rancid and smelled really bad. This "repair" took about 30 seconds.

I eventually searched online for a supplier and ordered the replacement knob. Ordering was easy and delievery was quick. Replacing the gas valve knob was easy; just slid it in place. Now all 4 burners are available for cooking again.

:-) - Just removed the old one and replace with the new one. Nothing to it. Takes 30 seconds.

Because the stove is over 10 years old the screws were very hard to loosen up and I needed to use WD 40 several times to loosen them,after that it was a snap for a 71-year-old woman.

Watched u tube video as supplied and followed instructions. Had trouble getting burners off so cleaned around edge of burners with fine bladed knife as suggested by other forum user and used oil filter type wrench to remove burner. There are three bumps on burner that hold it in place so need to turn anti clockwise to remove.

Prepare a flat area with newspaper, a screwdriver, and a small bowl for the screws, and a small wire brush (if you want to clean as you go). I also recommend taking photos as you proceed, for reference.

ALSO, take close note of the orientation of the cook top base, one end has a lip that's allows for burner assembly removal.

Remove entire two burner assembly, place upside down on newspaper, remove seven Phillips screws, remove assembly bottom.

Remove small screws from gas tubes, pay close attention as you remove the gas tube from the bottom of the burner, to the orientation of the two washers (the washers have an edge).

Remove the burner tubes and washers.

Carefully remove the igniter connectors from igniter.

Remove the end of the assembly.

Grasp the burners, and turn to rotate the burner to a position where the "bumps" on the burner match up with the gaps in the burner cook base. Remove the burners.

The old burner base can be set to the side. At this time i cleaned the burners throughly with a small toothbrush size wire brush.

Assemble the burners to the new top base by aligning the bumps to the opening in the cook top base, turn slightly to keep burner in place. Insert the gas tubes, with the washers (be careful about the washer lip orientation) with the smaller screws, do not overtighten!

Attach the igniter connector to the igniters.

Align the burner/gas tubes with the assembly end. Carefully set the base into place, adjust the tubes as necessary to get the screws aligned with the holes. Install the screws, tighten hand tight.

Install entire assembly into cook top, check igniter and burner operation.

Glass cleaner is great for cleaning the new porcelain surface.

Removed Stove cartridge from stove-top.

Unfastened bottom screws, I recall 6.

Removed cover.

Removed two screws to igniter.

Used needle nose pliers to remove connectors x 2.

Had to drill to enlarge the mounting screws to new ignitor, then screwed it in place

Connected the two wires to each igniter.

Replaced cover n screws.
Reinstalled cartridge.

Bingo

This cartridge fits my JennAir Downdraft Slide In Rage, part No. JDS9865BDP. The burner cartridge replaces a downdraft cooking grill module that comes with the original stove/Oven.
The spark quit on the cartridge side. I re-inserted the original cooking grill, and it lit fine. There are two components to look at. The sparker, and the burner igniter (one per each burner). Since both failed to light, I ordered the spark controller.
PartSelect has a video on how to test for failure, but I couldn't find that again.
Two screws mount the controller, two wires re-connected. and works perfect.

Simply removed old knob and popped on new knob. No tools needed.

Still not fixed. Waited about a year for the part to arrive, due to "COVID supply chain issue". Part finally arrived and was missing a sub component (ironically the worn out part). Now awaiting a reorder confirmation that this is being sent along with a return mailing label.
The re-order required me to obtain a better picture of the part from your competitor's web site, to prove the part sent was defective as your site was inadequate. My first call on this issue failed because of an absence of the better picture.
The 2nd call to customer service was very understanding and professional but I have yet to receive any confirmation on this re-order in the past 5 days.

UNPLUG THE POWER CORD! This particular model is a (slide-in) unit, it was wedged between to fixed cupboards/cabinets. Therefore, there are really no side panels to speak of, this made the repair slightly easier. I simply slid the unit out enough to unplug the power cord and access the right side of the unit. All one needs, at this point, is a Phillips head screw driver to remove a small metal panel installed just below the stove top panel (right side of range), its held with approx. 8 screws. There is one other panel that must be removed as well, (you may want to remove this panel first). It is an enameled-like panel approx. 5" wide x 36" long located at the front of the range (right side) running the length/height of the range (held with 2 screws). Get those 2 panels removed and you will see the spark module attached near center of range just under stove-top panel. Module is attached to a small metal bracket, module has 6 wires attached to it (2 feeding the module and 4 exiting the module to the burners). Bracket screws are nearly impossible to get at (you need a very stubby Phillips screw driver, if you can even get your hand in there). Anyway, I simply released the module from the bracket, then carefully bent the bracket back toward me; to provide work area for my hands. The bracket bends easily and really can't be broken. Now, at this point (using longer needle-nose pliers) detach the wires from the old module (remembering each wires location) or, as I did, hold the replacement module near the existing module and transfer the wires one at a time. Now, slap it all back together as you took it apart. Really simple job, total time is easily/generally under 30 minutes. It may be easier to access the module by removing all the burner components and raising the stove-top? Not sure? I chose not to do the repair that way. Hard part was locating where the manufacturer hid the module on the range. :- ) D.I.Y.ers Rock!!!