JED8230ADW Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

Removed the cook top from the counter. Removed the switch housing and then the switch. Found a match and ordered. Part came in 2 business days. Once I put together the housing and connected the wire housing the burner worked perfect. The downdraft fan remained on. Placed a call to Jenn Air service and was asked to disconnect the fan switch. There must be some memory in the solid state portion of the switch. After a few mins I replaced the fan switch and hooked up the wiring. All worked fine.

Knocked breaker removed stove top from iland removed a dozen screws replaced switch put screws back in installed top back in iland put breaker back in worked purfect.

Simply pulled the old filter out and put the new filter in.

The original fan switch for down draft stove top was discontinued! I found a replacement switch which worked just fine! I received switch and 2 different type replacement plates! One an exact match! Switch different but worked fine! I had to make no modification! Changed I'm about 10 minutes! I was lucky from what I read on other customers' responses!! They wouldn't promise me it would work!!

turned off power to stove top..lifted unit out unscrewed top and switch had 2 screws re-placed switch and put back together.. make easy $100 plus switch

I removed the glass top and replaced the switch unit successfully. Hardest part was removing the unit from the countertop and bracing the base with a 4x4.

take off frt of stove around burner knobs, remove old switch, put on new, replace frt of stove. Fast, easy & look at your savings!

I removed the protective grid over the filter and fan, turned the clip that held the filter in place and removed it. I placed the new intact filter for my antiquated Jenn-aire in its place, replaced the protective grid, and am happily continuing to cook on my functional cook top.Thank you.

Old filter allowed too much air flow causing exhaust fan to go off....installed new filter in exhaust chamber...release clip on old filter and install new filter (at an angle) in the exhaust box....clamp down clip on edge of filter and job is complete

The grease filter was 20+ yrs old and the mesh was falling of the frame. I was very pleased to find this replacement filter (the first filter I received was damaged....placed a call to PartSelect and have a new one the next day). Can't beat service like that!! Thank you, June Patten

This down draft filter was just what I was looking for. The big box stores (Home Depot and Lowe's) do not carry this size filter. Thanks,

The available replacement switch is a bit too large to fit into the hole on the original face plate which must be kept as it also mounts the 4 burner dials and the “on” light.
A local machine shop was able to make the original hole large enough to accommodate the new switch. Total time to detach and reassemble the original face plate, less than 2 hours. Other than the new switch being black, it looks original. (The 2 smaller face plates provided with the new switch were not needed.)

This was a repair project on a Jenn-Air built-in stovetop, which I had trouble finding instructions on how to disassemble. My particular problem was that three of the four burners had no temperature control. They were either on high or off - no such thing as simmer. This is opposite the problem described as a normal indicator of burner control failure. Usually the burner just goes dead. The hardest part of the repair was accessing the metal plate the burner controls are mounted on. First, I flipped the circuit breaker to the stovetop. It will shock the cr@#p out of you if you don't (I have experience from poking around down there without turning the power off). First, I had to remove the two burner inserts. The left one lifted from the top and the right one lifted from the bottom. Don't lift them past about 30 degrees. They are meant to lift up just enough to clear the tray well and then slide out. After removing the burner inserts, I was able to unscrew the eight fasteners holding down the stovetop rim. After removing this, I pulled out the trays underneath the burner inserts and put them aside without unscrewing the ground wires that attach them to the stovetop chassis. After removing the two screws holding on the active burner indicator lights, I was able to pull it up and lay it aside. Then I had to unscrew the two large brackets under the cabinet to loosen up the stovetop chassis so I could lift the front of it up an inch from the cabinet to enable me to unscrew two small metal screws that attach the metal plate holding the burner controls. After removing the two screws holding each burner control to the metal plate, I could unplug each of the five wires from the old controllers and plug them into the new controllers, in turn, before reattaching the new controllers to the metal plate. After repeating this procedure two more times, I reversed the process to reassemble the stovetop and voila, turned on the power and it worked perfectly. The result; a happy wife. For today.