JGD8348CDP Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

Removed burner pan screws,igniters, gas tubes & burners. Changed 2 igniters, removed rust & repainted ends of 2 of the tubes (heatproof paint). New burners were made a hair smaller than original but locked in O.K...Now, the hard part...disconnected all four tubes from gas valve assembly. (Had to shut off gas to house in order to remove main gas line to stovetop.) Had to remove valve box in order to remove/replace frozen valve. Unit is 25 years old, works as and looks new...Rust was caused by boil-overs.

I was able to order the part I needed. The faulty pad had a broken stem.Several pads came in a bag so if I have the problem again I will have the parts on hand. I bought some RTV glue suitable for items at high temperatures; used a probe to make sure the hole in the grate was clear and clean and glued the new pad in place.

Very simple, cleaned out what was remaining of the old rubber feet and just pushed these in. I didn't bother glueing them in as I didn't feel they would fall out. If they do, I'll go out and obtain the glue that is mentioned by others in this thread. Very satisfied.

Watched a video on replacing igniter. Removed old igniter and replaced it with new igniter.

removed rear cover where the spark module was and change it

Lots of small metal screws to remove on the housing, gas supply and electric igniters. The only challenge for me was getting the old burner heads out of the trays- they ere rusted up and needed a little penetrating oil and time to break free. I re-used my old igniters- had to bend open the little metal rod at the tip a half of a millimeter to get them to fit back thru the new heads. Keep track of how things come apart and the way the gas lines assemble and it's an easy project. Be careful not to over-tighten old screws in rusty holes in the trays.

Removed old igniter. Porcelain was broken. Replaced with new igniters. Really simple to do. Took 10 minutes to replace all 4

Dis mantel burner unit removed burner replaced burner and igniter

To gain access to the burner, the bottom of the double burner unit had to be removed (7 screws). Once this was achieved, it was a simple matter of removing the old burner head which is captured with three lobes that engage the unit much like a thread,(which in my case was stuck in because of rust and had to be persuaded with a pipe wrench). The new burner was installed with hand pressure only, and once the gas flange was remounted and the ignitor hooked up, I just re-attached the bottom of the unit and viola!

undid about 7 screws to get access to underside of burner, unscrewed 4 screws that held on gas feed pipe and ignitor. twisted out old burner and gently removed ignitor from burner. cleanded up area where burner was and installed new one. took a little bit of tweeking to reinsert ignitor but did slide in nicely. reattached gas pipe and all screws. slide burner case back into position. turned on and worked nicely.

New burner and igniter.....actually it was very easy to to fix

As described for the part. Easy repair. Easy to diagnose thanks to feedback from another customer of yours. Part was received super fast.

I took a jewelers screwdriver and completely cleaned out what was left of the old pads. Then applied a small amount of heat resistant rtv sealant to each hole, slid in the new pads and wiped off the excess. I let everything set overnight. The next day everything was solid. Job was complete. Note I've done this before and did not get the results I did this time. I believe it was the instruction that came with the pads and the tip-off to use the rtv. Thank you PartSelect T.Garr

This is the second burner head I have replaced. It was easier than the first time but the burner head I received did not have the screw holes to reattach the gas tube to the burner head. I was able to drill my own without too much trouble using a standard bit and electric drill. I used the old burner head to determine what size drill bit to use. Even so, it was still an easy fix.

replaced burner