JEC8430ADN Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

Disconnect the power.took the cooktop off the range. Turned it over. Removed the underside plate. Disconnected the bad element. Pluged inthe new element. Replaced the under plate. Reconnected the range to the stovetop .put cooktop in place. Reattached screws. Turned on power. Worked perfectly.

First I shut off the power to the stove top and the electrical breaker box. I found that the stove top was stuck to the counter top surface; a butter knife was used to break the old seal by inserting it under the lip of the stove top and slowly broke the seal by going all the way around the lip. Then I lifted the cook top out of the counter. I had to remove the entire sheet metal bottom enclosure for easier access to the switch compartment. I removed the 2 screws holding the old switch in place. I installed the new switch. Using the wiring diagram, included in the packaging of the switch, I labeled each connector with the proper colored wire, physically traced each wire to be certain it matched the wiring diagram. I removed the wires from the old switch, using a pair of needle nose pliers to prevent any damage to the wires, then connected each wire to the identified terminals on the new switch. Re-assembled the enclosure and removed the old foam seal. I replaced the old foam with the new foam. I then placed the cook top back into the counter cutout, turned on the breaker and turned on the burner. Wa-lah, every thing worked. Great job on the instructions. It made the job easy and straight forward. The only thing I found a little difficult was trying to remove the 2 screws holding the switch in place by only removing the small access to the switch compartment. It was much easier to remove the whole bottom enclosure. Just a few more screws, which took about 5 minutes.

first I checked continuity through the surface element (burner) switch (rheostat) which was fine. then found the screws holding the burner top on and removed, this made it possible to lift up the burner top and remove the burnt out surface element.which was easy to see. take down the number, buy a new one and re hook up the four wires to the new element. (always mark down where the wires went)

unscrew 3 screws under the control panel and pull that away from the glass top making sure the wires don't come apart from the connectors. care fully slide the glass forward and replace the burner which was the easy part. DO NOT try to test without making sure that none of the burner are touching the metal surface!!!!!!!! it will trip your breaker. But now we have a range with 4 burner after a year THANKS

I used a nut driver to take the module apart. When I discovered the problem I simply threw the module out but kept the ceramic top and then ordered a new stove top. The burners would be a snap to install if the clips that secure it in place had not ALL broken off. All you do is pull the wires off with a pair pliers and set the new unit in place and reattach the wires. All that would be left would be to reattach the ceramic top and set the module back into place on the stove top. The modules were discontinued and no longer available any place. Believe me I tried. The delivery to me from Parts Perfect was very quick and without any hassles. I had no problem returning the burner. I would recommend these people any time.

I unscrewed the glass surface from the bottom portion where the element lays. I gently unplugs the element and plugged in the new element. Then screwed it back together.

The range top came off with two screws under the front portion of the glass top (by the oven door). I unplugged the connection plugs at the rear off the range top, unscrewed the rear screws holding the heating unit in place and plugged in new element and reassembled range unit. You need to removed the two phillip head screws at the rear of the range top in order to remove the bar holding the heating element. Once you do this it is very easy to finish the job.

1. I ordered a replacement heater element from Parts Select, which arrived in just 3 days at my home. 2. I turned off the main circuit breaker to the range. 3. There are two small sheet metal screws inside the top left and right side of the oven door frame which need to be removed first in order to lift and remove the burner top from the range. 4. After lifting and pulling the burner top toward me about 6 inches, I unplugged the left and right burner assembly wiring harness connectors. 5. I lifted the burner top assembly off the stove and turned it upside down an a table. 6. There are six sheet metal screws that need to be removed to allow the sheet metal panel holding the heater assemblies to be lifted off and then also set upside down on a table top. All five burner elements are now visible. 7. Disconnect the slip-on electrical connectors to the specific heater assembly that is defective. 8. Unscrew the three small sheet metal screws from the three spring clips that support the heater assembly on the sheet metal panel; re-attach the spring clips to the new heater assembly. NOTE: Either memorize or record the position numbers that are cast into the ceramic housing of the burner to replace the new burner in exactly the same position. 9. Insert the three spring clips back into the sheet metal panel where the old, defective burner assembly had been removed. 10. Re-connect the slip-on wire clips to the new heater assembly in the same position as they were removed from the defective heater assembly. 11. Turn over the sheet metal panel with the burner assemblies attached and replace the sheet metal screws holding the panel to the stove top. 12. Turn over the stove top assembly and set back onto the range allowing space to reach to the back and re-connect the polarized connectors to the left and right side burners. 13. Slide the stove top back to the rear and carefully lower the front edge back down with the two metal tabs inserted back into the oven door frame. 14. Re-install the two sheet metal screws that hold down the stove top. 15. Turn on the main circuit breaker to the range. 16. Carefully test the new heater assembly by turning the range control knob to LO heat and watch for the stove top burner to momentarily turn red with heat. 17. Turn off the range control knob. 18. You are finished. It was a very easy installation.

It's easier with two people.
1 - Turn the breaker for the range to OFF
2 - Verify power is off by testing the burners and lights
3 - Remove front two screws above oven door jamb
4 - Lift the top and prop it up with the spoon, or have your helper hold it.
5 - Loosen the screw at the rear of the bracket that holds the elements against the glass top (front and rear are held by the same retainer)
6 - Remove the bad element by sliding it sideways from the retainer. Do not disconnect things yet.
7 - The burner has numbers around the edge. Move brackets from old element to new one, matching the numbers. Then move wiring to new element. New burner may have a single connector where old one had 2 and a jumper. If so, ignore jumper.
8 - Slide new element under bracket and reinstall the screw.
9 - Lower the range top and re-install the screws.
10 - Turn on power and test.

Removed two screws holding cooktop to oven. Unlike the video, the cooktop was not detachable as the wires were hard-wired to the range, so I had to prop the top up with a 6" block of wood and was working upside down. I replaced the element and everything worked just fine.

i did fine

First, I turned the circuit breaker off to the range. Then, I pulled the range out so that I could get to the screws which held the glass top in place. They were located on the sides of the range. I had to remove the trim pieces on the sides to get to the forward screws. Once that was done, I lifted the glass top, unplugged the wire harness, flpped it over on a protected surface. I noted the numbers on the old coil where the clips held it in place and put the clips on the new coil in the same place. The old wires just clipped on to the new coil exactly as they clipped on to the old coil. I put it all back together and it works great! I am a 70 year old woman who did this all by myself. You young guys should have no problem.

I watched the video, purchased the correct heating element and did the repair as illustrated in the video. I simply removed the cook top, removed the ground wire, removed the wiring harness, removed the failed heating element, installed the new heating element and reinstalled the wiring. Piece of cake!

1. Remove power from unit. 2. Removed 1/4" sheet metal screw from lower blower vent tube. 3. Lifted the unit above the counter and placed two 1x2" boards between the unit and counter. To remove the Stove Top to get access to the Element you must remove 8 each 1/4" sheet metal screws from the bottom side of the Stove Top attaching flange. 3 each screws on the forward and aft side and 1 each on the left and right side. (Note, the 8 each 1/4" attaching screws are at the top of the Stove Top attaching flange.) 4. Remove the Vent Grill and locate the 2 each cross point screws on the center left and right side of the opening. (Note. Due to the limited space, I used a right angle cross point driver.) 5. Remove Stove Top. 6. Tag electrical connections. Remove and replace Element. 7. Turn on power and check Element. Remove power and Reassemble Unit.

My mother is a great cook that is always in a hurry ... and I know that she is not always pushing those plastic knobs DOWN before turning them. Frustrated with reordering these expensive plastic knobs,I decided to get smart. I reordered 6 knobs (this is the 3rd time in 2 years). These knobs are designed to break. I decided to reinforce the plastic that goes around the knob shafts. At first, I thought about using some rigid metal bird bands like on a parrot. I second thought that this would be too difficult to find the perfect size to fit the outside diameter of the knob, so I decided to buy slightly smaller diameter, tightly coiled, sturdy, steel springs to fit around the plastic that fits onto the shafts. I manipulated each spring to become slightly larger to fit over the plastic by twisting the spring in the direction of uncoiling it. Not permanently unbending it, but just enough to make it grow in diameter to fit around the outside. I clipped the excess wire from the spring with wire cutters and reinforcerd everything with a coat of good strong epoxy . It seems that the metal spring and epoxy bonded to the knob became SOLID AS A ROCK. I figured, if the plastic can't split from the D- SHAPED shaft, then we have a knob that is as good as if it were made out of metal.