C116 Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

2 screws to remove
disconnect 220 v power
use long nose pliers to transfer 5 female spade terminals
use nut driver to r@r shaft nut
replace panel with 2 screws
Turn on power and test!---OK!

Remove and replace grease filter.

Replaced one of the four burner control switches on my Jennair cooktop. One of the tricks I use to prevent mistakes is putting the new switch along side the existing one and swap one connector at a time over to the new switch preventing any confusion and negating any need to mark the wires. This differs from your video assistant who disconnected all the wires at once.
gc.

We replaced the burner grates, knobs, air filter and burner pan. Looks as good as new!

Removed old filter, dropped in the new one.
(This really was not a "repair")

I've ordered parts from you twice now, and both times the service has been absolutely amazing!!!!!

Now, on to how I did this without fire or electrocution:

Turned off breakers.
Grabbed a beer.
Removed two screws holding in plate.
Removed electrical connectors.
Removed two screws holding switch.
Put new switch in place with screws.
Reattached connectors.
Reseated plate & screws.
Turned on power & tested.
Finished beer and felt very manly.

The hardest part was getting the plate to re-seat.

remove gas valve knobs, removed two screws holding trim plate on lifted plate removed wires replaced switch and reversed the prior moves.

Very easy

old filter fell into from removing and cleaning,
removed cover pulled out filter ,replaced it with new one.

This was a no-brainer: old filter out, new filter in. In addition to replacing an old, greasy filter, I found that the exhaust fan now draws cooking fumes much more efficiently. So why did I wait the 6 years since we moved into this house to do this???

Remove cover plate, install new switch, replace cover place. Replace one wire at a time, a pair of needle nose pliers may be helpful. Surprise of this job was that I had a torque screw driver (I think that's what it's called) to remove the switch from the cover plate. These are the screws you'll see after removing the knob. Find that driver before you begin, mine was in the garage and for the life of me, I can't remember why I ever had one in the first place.
Thanks for a great web site!

Ok, however, from what I read on the internet those who wrote down their advice and experience regarding this particular part, explained that the push nuts were too small to accomodate the studs. I too had the same problem, and therefore had to get other ones at the local hardware store. Apparently this is inherently a commmon problem. You need to provide push nuts with a slightly larger diameter, so they can be pushed down the studs/pegs.

I removed 2 screws to release the plate that held four the switces. I removed 2 screws to release the bad switch. I removed one wire at a time and connected the to the same post on the new switch, screwed the switch into place and reinsalled the mounting plate. The stove works fine.

Removed top and front panel

Really easy ...followed advice posted from others with same problem. Before anything disconnect the power at the breakers and use a voltage detector to verify there is NO POWER!!!! Only need to remove the two phillips screws on the four controller panel, Slide panel away from you to access the controllers. Match wire/connector for connector from the old to new controller. Reassemble, restore power .. Happy wife!!!. She has been on my case to fix this thing for several years.

I removed two screws that held the switch plate together. Then I removed two screws that held the faulty switch to the swtich plate. I then unpluged one wire at a time from the old switch and pluged it into the new switch. Reattached the switch to the switch plate and then reattached the switch plate to the stovetop. Bingo! Everything worked beautifully. It was so easy and I saved ~ $100.00 by doing it myself, as opposed to a quote that I got from a local repairman.