CVE3401Q Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

Knocked breaker removed stove top from iland removed a dozen screws replaced switch put screws back in installed top back in iland put breaker back in worked purfect.

Removed the cook top from the counter. Removed the switch housing and then the switch. Found a match and ordered. Part came in 2 business days. Once I put together the housing and connected the wire housing the burner worked perfect. The downdraft fan remained on. Placed a call to Jenn Air service and was asked to disconnect the fan switch. There must be some memory in the solid state portion of the switch. After a few mins I replaced the fan switch and hooked up the wiring. All worked fine.

The dual burner on my range wasn't working—the inner, smaller portion would heat up, but the outer portion (for larger pots/pans) would not. I searched online and discovered that the element is easily replaced, and Yay! It was! I had difficulty finding the model number of my range, as it wasn't in any of the obvious, suggested places. I had to get help to slide my range away from the wall (which was the most difficult part of this project!), but in doing so, found a metal tab on the back of the range, near the top, that flipped up to reveal the model and serial #s! From that info, I was able to find and order the correct replacement element for the burner that wasn't working, and in less than an hour, had it fixed!

turned off power to stove top..lifted unit out unscrewed top and switch had 2 screws re-placed switch and put back together.. make easy $100 plus switch

verified that the heating element was at fault by measuring it with ohmmeter. There are 3 contacts on the outside of the element. Resistance between center contact and either outside contact should read something close to 0 ohm, if it is good, and if it is burned, it will read open circuit (infinite resistance). Wanted to make sure that this is not the switch, which I replaced a few months ago. Before I disconnected all the connectors from the element I made picture of all the connections, just in case I forgot what gets connected to what (didn't use it, though). Installing the new element was very easy. Most work is done getting access to the element. Repair went smoothly, range works fine, now.

I removed the glass top and replaced the switch unit successfully. Hardest part was removing the unit from the countertop and bracing the base with a 4x4.

Here is what I did with new switch (part#12002125) and it worked. Connect jumper to P1 and S1. Split the 2 red wires and put new spades on the ends, then put the red wire from left front switch on P2 and the other red wire from the right rear burner on 2. Blue goes to 4. Purple goes to 4A. Black goes to P1. Orange goes to S2.