C236NGB Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

We followed the instructions on the video after receiving our part - they were perfect instructions and led us right through the repair. I have to say it would have been harder to do with one person - but probably doable.

I verified that there was current running to the switch.
Ordered a new switch,
Replaced the switch.
Had a little problem getting the oneway washers off the pegs but not much.
Saved the cost of a repair man and felt good about myself!

First I moved the left rear burner to the right front. No change. Then I moved the burner units from left to right, No change. I guessed it was the control switch and ordered from PartSelect. Turnaround time from PartSelect was excellent.
I turned off the powerr to the range. Removed the screws holding on the front panel and then pulled the panel out far enough to see behind it. I located the faulty control switch and then held the new switch, next to it, and turning to proper orientation. I then, one at a time moved the wires to the new switch. After that it was mount the new switch, put the panel back in place and turn on the power.

I lifted off the old grill and replaced them with the new ones. My stove top looks great again. If I could find them, I would like to replace the knobs to turn on the gas!

I followed the online video at Jennair.com. The repair was easy and I saved quite a bit of money. I was quoted a price of $534.00 to replace the door hinges, I did it for $96.00 including overnight shipping chargers. I am a very happy lady.

The grease filter was 20+ yrs old and the mesh was falling of the frame. I was very pleased to find this replacement filter (the first filter I received was damaged....placed a call to PartSelect and have a new one the next day). Can't beat service like that!! Thank you, June Patten

First turn off breaker, then take screws out switch assembly,take oid switch out, put new switch on,turn power on.

Unlike many here, the oven door closed enough to come up to temperature quickly and I could not feel any heat escaping. The oven worked fine but the light stayed on because the door just wasn't snug enough. I watched the great how-to video and ordered the hinges. They arrived in two or three days! I set up a work space, cued up the video again and the new hinges were installed in just a few minutes! But the door would not close enough to turn the light off! I did some more googling around and found the magnet trick! I just happened to have the perfect size magnet from a broken souvenir magnet! and now the light stays off! I stuck the magnet (about the size of a nickel) inside the door opposite the light button. This won't help if you have serious problems with the oven door, but it works if the only problem is the light!

We found the youtube video created by partselect.com and followed it. We took the door apart, cleaned the inside, removed the old hinges and replaced them with the new ones. Now the door works perfectly!

Opened oven door. Inserted a small bent nail into the small holes on the hinge. This locks the hinge from closing all the way. Removed the chrome hinge retaining plates. One at each hinge. Lifted the door off the oven. Laid door on towel. Removed 3 screws from the top of door, three screws from the bottom of door. This allows you to separate the two pieces of the door. Clean all glass surfaces, including the ones under the middle glass panel. Removed 1 screw from each hinge at bottom of door. Pull hinge from bottom of door after removing screws. Insert new spring at top of door first, replace retaining screw. Realign the two door parts and replace all screws. Set door back on hinge pocket. Be careful to insure that the hinge seats into the pocket. Open door just enough to replace retaining plates. Process was easy, but it did not fix the problem completely. Bought heavy magnets from hardware store and installed them inside the door. This with the new hinge fixed the problem.

Used a multimeter to determine that power was going to the surface burner infinite switch. Then determined that power was not going from the output side of the switch to the burner element. Turned power to range off at the breaker box. Removed eight screws total on range top, four on the cartridge side, two located on back of control plate where the downdraft vent is located and two on the double fixed burner side. Raised the range top to gain access to the infinite switch assemblies. Removed to torx head screws retaining the infinite switch and then disconnected the five wires on the bottom one at a time, making sure to replace in the exact location on the new switch. Installed torx screws in the new switch and installed all screws back into range top. Reinstalled cartridge and burners and turned power back on. Tested rear burner and all functioned properly.

James is an electrician so he istalled the part himself

Simply pulled the old filter out and put the new filter in.

Shut off breaker, removed the top by unscrewing the retaining screws and removing all knobs and grommets. Removed control from top panel by unscrewing, removed 5 wires and placed on new control. I then remounted the control, placed the top in its well, fastened. Replaced the retaining screws in the hold down strip and replaced grommets and knobs. Returned power to panel by turning the breaker on and tested. Used later that evening to grill 2 panini.

Loosen two screws to remove door. Removed outside trim and other outside screws hold center panel in place. Removed one screw holding hinge in place. Screwed new hinge in place. Re-attached center panel to outside trim and hung door. Easy enough.