2300ERS Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

Removed old filter, dropped in the new one.
(This really was not a "repair")

This was a no-brainer: old filter out, new filter in. In addition to replacing an old, greasy filter, I found that the exhaust fan now draws cooking fumes much more efficiently. So why did I wait the 6 years since we moved into this house to do this???

couldn't find replacement in our town, which is quite
small and no Maytag dealers. So, I ordered on line two drip bowls and saved one"just in case"

Mission accomplished. Thanks allot.

old filter fell into from removing and cleaning,
removed cover pulled out filter ,replaced it with new one.

I just pulled the electric element out of the slot and dropped the drip pan in place and slipped the electric element back in place and it was ready to go. It looks almost new. We built a new house in 95. It took 17 months to build it. I got the stainless steel cook top that you can have the grill on one side or you can pull the grill off and slip in the burners. It is only 4 burners but it is plenty to work with. It has a down draft.

perfect

I removed the burner elements for three burners by lifting the surface top and unplugging them. I snapped out the plug sockets that were burned out and cut the two wires, one element at a time. Using the included wire nuts I stripped the ends of the cut wire and connected each wire to one of the wires on the new socket. Once the wires were connected I snapped the sockets in place and reinstalled the elements, lowered the surface top and the range was ready to use.

It was worth the money for that little screw, since I didn't have to run all over trying to find the right one.

Replaced the switch and put the new surface element in and it works great.

Turn off the power. Remove 2 screws (in the blower compartment) and lift up the control panel. Release the switch by removing the fastnut. Unplug each wire from the old switch and place it in the cooresponding lug on the new switch. Screw everything back together and cook.

Cut broken wire and existed wire off and put splice on both new and old wires to connect them.
It's easy job.

Removed 2 screws and i nut. Unplug the old switch and plug in the new switch and presto, back in business. Extremely easy. Part was exactly as pictured. Part arrived within 2 days. Great Co. to buy parts from. Highly recommend Partsselect.

Kill power to range unit at the breaker. Remove 2 screws on back of center control panel. Lift control panel up and toward rear of unit. Unscrew retainer nut which holds switch in the control panel. Carefully note wiring connections, and unplug all 5 wires from switch with pliers. Remove old switch. Reconnect all wires to new switch. Reattach switch to panel with retainer nut. Replace control panel in range with screws. Turn on power.

I first replaced the element and the receiver. This required splicing lines which was very easy. It still did not heat (even though my element indicator light was on) so I replaced the switch regulator. This took a little time because of the small space on my model. In fact, I had to replace a wire that had shorted by splicing a 3 inch section into it. When that was done, I simply re-connected the 5 wires in the original positions and reattached the cover. It works like a charm and my wife is delighted because we are hosting a family reunion/baby shower tomorrow!

Removed screws by drilling one and using a pliers to remove 2nd one. At first did not have enough wire to pull recepticles out until I relized wires were clipped to back of range to hold in place. Unclipped wires, pulled recepticles out, cut wires and attached new recepticles by connecting wires with wire nuts (I think wire nuts were to small so I used my own a size larger). Another problem that I found was that the recepticles on my range were held in place only by the screws that attached the recepticles to the drip pan flang. I had to bend an L bracket to prop under each recepticle to hold the back of it up so the burner element would sit level over the drip pan.