JGC8430BDS Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Charles from Grenada, MS
- Parts Used:
- WP7733P410-60
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Burner knobs broken
Lifted upwards on old knobs to remove then aligned new knobs fittings, pressed downward to instal new knobs. Really easy.
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- Customer:
- Katherine from dayton, WA
- Parts Used:
- WP7733P410-60
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Original Burner Knob broke at the shaft
Simply took off the original knob and replaced it with the new one.
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- Customer:
- Aida J. from North Richland Hills, TX
- Parts Used:
- WP7733P410-60
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
knob got burned
I just took-off the old one and put the new one by hand.
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- Customer:
- KARL from OCEAN, NJ
- Parts Used:
- WP74009336
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
burner ignator split--
unscrewed old ignator---replaced w new--done deal!!!!
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- Customer:
- Paul from Deer Park, IL
- Parts Used:
- WP74009336
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Wrench set
Burner electrode was damaged during cleaning
A crack in the porcelain caused the spark to not go in the proper direction, therefore the burner would not ignite. To have the job done by a professional would have cost $200.00 plus parts. Remove two phillips screws lift the burner out then remove the one phillips screw that held the electrode. Then with the new electrode in place reverse the previous steps.
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- Customer:
- Scott from Glenwood Springs, CO
- Parts Used:
- WP74009336, WP7733P410-60
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
One burner not lighting, but has spark
Electrode ceramic was chipped. Spark was not coming to the top of the electrode, and stove would not light. Remove two burner screws. These are "baked" on...so use some liquid wrench first if you have it. Don't strip the head, or you'll have a mess. Remove burner, unplug electrode, remove electrode screw, replace electrode. Reverse process and you're good to go!
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- Customer:
- Tom from Two Rivers, WI
- Parts Used:
- WP74009336
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Igniter Needed Replacement
Removed the burner & igniter as a unit. Screws holding burner down were very tight. One came out with effort, the other one the head broke off. Tried heat but to no avail. The screw holding the igniter had to be drilled out. Fortunatly I work in a machine shop so I was able to remove the screw, but the hole was then too large for the replacement screw. I wound aluminum foil around a toothpick to form a bushing in the hole so the screw could grab. Same principle as those plastic anchors for plaster or drywall. Bought stainless screws, but did not even try to get the broken screw out of the cooktop. The one screw holds it in place just fine. Wife is very happy.
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- Customer:
- Randy from Franklin, TN
- Parts Used:
- WP74009336
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
Cook top electrode "starter" not working
Do not buy just the burner electrodes. The screws that hold the electrode will break off. Purchase the burner head with electrode. I would recommend placing anti-sieze lub on the new screw that holds the electrode to the burner head so if the electrode fails again it can be replaced. The screws that hold the burner head to the top top are mild steel and will rust and snap off. I would use a rust penatrent on these screws several days before trying to remove but most likely they will strip or break off. Replace all these burner head screws with stainless steel screws with anti-seize applied. If any of this sound difficult call a repair company.
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- Customer:
- grant from aurora, CO
- Parts Used:
- WP74009336
- Difficulty Level:
- Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Spark Ignitor replacement
Screws holding burner base and ignitor were plain steel. If they had been stainless they probably would not have rusted in so tight. One in the base broke off, and the one holding the ignitor could not be removed, even with heat from a torch. I ended drilling it out and re-tapping the hole. If I wasn't mechanically inclined I would have had to give up and order a new burner base.
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