JGC9430BDR Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

The porcelain cracked on the burner igniter, it wouldn’t spark and light the flame. I got tired of using the fireplace lighter to light this main burner.

If you have to replace your igniter, it should be very very easy. Remove the two torx screws Holding the cast iron burner to the stainless steel top. Pull it up and the wire connected to the igniter should pull through the small hole in the stainless steel top. Turn the cast-iron base over, pull the wire off, and there is a little screw Fastening the igniter to the bottom of the cast-iron Base. Remove the old igniter and screw the new igniter in place, reattach the wire, and screw the base down to the stainless steel top. That’s it, or how it should be. After years of spaghetti water, gravy, etc. boiling over, I was only able to remove one of the torx screws after using some WD-40 and a torch to heat it up. The other screw sheared off at the head. And a little screw holding the igniter in place, the Phillips head was stripped! I had to leave the roof or the igniter in place, break off all the porcelain, and then break the rest of the metal off leading the screw in place. So I had to use my Dremel grinder to remove some of the metal on the new igniter, then use some tinfoil underneath it to stabilize it in place and then tighten the cast-iron base down using only one screw. Even with one screw and using the tinfoil, it is stable and everything works now. This $27 part was a heck of a lot cheaper than paying $5000 for a new range top!

Removed the gas deflector; unscrewed the burner body; pulled off the ignition wire; unscrewed the bad electrode; screwed in the replacement electrode; reversed the steps. Voila! Perfect operation once again. My one mistake? Ordered the wrong electrode initially. Make sure you get the right part the first time around.

First reviewed other review on this repair. Disconnected ignitor system from electrical source (pulled plug); removed 2 screws holding casing in place; removed it from the cooktop; & removed additional screw holding ignitor. Replaced ignitor and reversed the process. Done.

Removed two star screws from the top of the burner, disconnected the wire going to the Ignitor, removed the old ignitor held in with one phillips screw, installed new ignitor and re-installed the burner assembly. Simple!

I used a star head driver to take of burners ,then pulled wires out about 2 inches unplugged old ignitors and plugged in new ones

Remove the burner cover to reach the burner assembly. From the top of the cooktop you will see 2 screws holing the burner assembly. Using a T drive (6 point screwdriver)remove both screws and the burner assembly will come out of the cook top. Using a phillips head screw driver, remove the old ignitor from the burner assembly. Mine was galled up, so I had to use some penetrating oil and let it sit for a half hour. I then used a hammer and a phillips head screwdriver to tap the screw as I twisted to un-tightened the screw. Once it broke loose, I placed the new ignitor and reassembled the burner into the stove.

First I removed the burner, two screws held it in place. The ignitor is attached to the burner with one screw remove the screw then remove the one wire connection. Reverse the steps to put back together. The whole job from start to finish takes about five minutes.

Simply removed the old ignitor and install the exact replacement part. Work great.

remove two screws then unplug the wires put the wires back on the new one

First I tried twitching my nose....after I stopped sneezing I got a screw driver and put the new electrode in and gosh in gahiggy, it worked!!

First step is to turn gas off to cook top and also disconnect power to the unit. Than using a crescent wrench disconnect the gas line going to the unit from the Regulator. Than again using the crescent wrench disconnect the regulator from the bottom of the unit. Next remove the nipple that connects the gas line to the regulator from the old unit. Apply new pipe dope to the threads and screw it into the new one and tighten down. Next install the regulator to the unit and install the gas line to the regulator. once done with the install you can now plug the unit in and turn on the gas. You are now ready to use the cook top again

I lifted the burner tray from stove turned it upside down then removed six small screws from side of cover pan then I removed the cover then I removed the screws from the back of the old burners and igniter.Then I turned the old burner counter clockwise and it lifted out easly. the igniter is removed with no problem. The new burner is put in place and turned clockwise to lock in place.Then replace then the gas tubes and igniter and igniter wire then put tray cover on.

Do not buy just the burner electrodes. The screws that hold the electrode will break off. Purchase the burner head with electrode. I would recommend placing anti-sieze lub on the new screw that holds the electrode to the burner head so if the electrode fails again it can be replaced. The screws that hold the burner head to the top top are mild steel and will rust and snap off. I would use a rust penatrent on these screws several days before trying to remove but most likely they will strip or break off. Replace all these burner head screws with stainless steel screws with anti-seize applied. If any of this sound difficult call a repair company.

Removed the burner & igniter as a unit. Screws holding burner down were very tight. One came out with effort, the other one the head broke off. Tried heat but to no avail. The screw holding the igniter had to be drilled out. Fortunatly I work in a machine shop so I was able to remove the screw, but the hole was then too large for the replacement screw. I wound aluminum foil around a toothpick to form a bushing in the hole so the screw could grab. Same principle as those plastic anchors for plaster or drywall. Bought stainless screws, but did not even try to get the broken screw out of the cooktop. The one screw holds it in place just fine. Wife is very happy.

Screws holding burner base and ignitor were plain steel. If they had been stainless they probably would not have rusted in so tight. One in the base broke off, and the one holding the ignitor could not be removed, even with heat from a torch. I ended drilling it out and re-tapping the hole. If I wasn't mechanically inclined I would have had to give up and order a new burner base.