C236B-E Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

Used a multimeter to determine that power was going to the surface burner infinite switch. Then determined that power was not going from the output side of the switch to the burner element. Turned power to range off at the breaker box. Removed eight screws total on range top, four on the cartridge side, two located on back of control plate where the downdraft vent is located and two on the double fixed burner side. Raised the range top to gain access to the infinite switch assemblies. Removed to torx head screws retaining the infinite switch and then disconnected the five wires on the bottom one at a time, making sure to replace in the exact location on the new switch. Installed torx screws in the new switch and installed all screws back into range top. Reinstalled cartridge and burners and turned power back on. Tested rear burner and all functioned properly.

The video you provided was excellent! Turned the circuit breaker off. Removed four screws, pulled out control panel, took a picture of the wiring to be safe. Disconnected the wires from the damaged control and removed it (two screws removed). Mounted the new control, connected the wiring, replaced the control panel and the four screws. Circuit breaker back on, turn burner on. That's it. Thanks for the video!

I removed the cover plate for the burner switches and verified the wiring on the other switches. I had removed the bad switch a few years ago and I needed to make sure that the wiring was correct. I did not keep the original screws that hold the switch in place, because I destroyed them when I first removed the old switch. The were corroded from years of cleaning solution. I made new screws from longer wall socket screws by shortening them with a hacksaw. The entire process took about 30 minutes to do, and the results were good. The new switch is smoother than the others, but functions exactly the same.

James is an electrician so he istalled the part himself

First turn off the power to the stove/oven. Next I removed the 4 screws located on the bottom surface of the control panel. You need to open the oven door to see/access them. The control panel can then be removed by rotating the bottom outward which allows the flange on the top to disengage. Next remove the two screws that hold the switch to the control panel. Note which wire goes to which spade connector. A quick photo can help. Undo the wires. Remove the old switch. Reinstall the wires. Mount the new switch to the control panel. Mount the control panel back into the stove/oven. Turn on the power and test. The burner now works as new!

We found the youtube video created by partselect.com and followed it. We took the door apart, cleaned the inside, removed the old hinges and replaced them with the new ones. Now the door works perfectly!

Unlike many here, the oven door closed enough to come up to temperature quickly and I could not feel any heat escaping. The oven worked fine but the light stayed on because the door just wasn't snug enough. I watched the great how-to video and ordered the hinges. They arrived in two or three days! I set up a work space, cued up the video again and the new hinges were installed in just a few minutes! But the door would not close enough to turn the light off! I did some more googling around and found the magnet trick! I just happened to have the perfect size magnet from a broken souvenir magnet! and now the light stays off! I stuck the magnet (about the size of a nickel) inside the door opposite the light button. This won't help if you have serious problems with the oven door, but it works if the only problem is the light!

sorry, son did job. It went like a charm. Easy, quick, and works great.Thanks

Opened oven door. Inserted a small bent nail into the small holes on the hinge. This locks the hinge from closing all the way. Removed the chrome hinge retaining plates. One at each hinge. Lifted the door off the oven. Laid door on towel. Removed 3 screws from the top of door, three screws from the bottom of door. This allows you to separate the two pieces of the door. Clean all glass surfaces, including the ones under the middle glass panel. Removed 1 screw from each hinge at bottom of door. Pull hinge from bottom of door after removing screws. Insert new spring at top of door first, replace retaining screw. Realign the two door parts and replace all screws. Set door back on hinge pocket. Be careful to insure that the hinge seats into the pocket. Open door just enough to replace retaining plates. Process was easy, but it did not fix the problem completely. Bought heavy magnets from hardware store and installed them inside the door. This with the new hinge fixed the problem.

Simply pulled the old filter out and put the new filter in.

This down draft filter was just what I was looking for. The big box stores (Home Depot and Lowe's) do not carry this size filter. Thanks,

I have a newer jenn air with the 3 prong elements. The original element was 3 prong 1900W only using one of the controls. Since the stove socket would accommodate 4 prongs I looked up the part for the older stoves (PS2357533)which had 2 elemants using both controls. The element plugged right in and I now have high heat like on my older models and it now grills like it should instead of just heating the stuff up. Highly recommended. One caution you will need a metal piece to support the element since the newer stoves do not use the metal bricketts with supports.

In response to your question.......everything went perfectly!! The reason?? I read the directions that were very easy to follow. It was a quick, easy repair, and the stove burner is working like new.

Thank you for your help!!

Bob

Removed 4 screws, tilted cover up and lifted out, removed wires from switch, removed 2 screws holding switch, lifted switch out. Replaced with new switch, connected wires, secured cover with the 4 screws. It worked!

took new element out of box, inserted it into stovetop, everything was over in about 2 minutes. It worked just fine.