JGC9536BDB Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

First I removed the two screws that held the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches to disconnect the electric wire - it had a small bayonet connection. I turned the element over and unscrewed the small screw holding the ignitor to the element freeing the ignitor from the element. After receiving the part from Part Select, I reversed the process...

1. attaching the ignitor to the underside of the element using the small screw.
2. reattaching the electric wire to the ignitor.
3. positioning the element on the stove top.
4. reattaching the eelement using the 2 screws.
5. testing and finding it worked fine.

A couple of observations:

1. The screws holding the element to the stove are star screws while the screw attaching the ignitor to the element is Phillips - necessitating 2 different screwdrives for an easy repair.

2. I had problems with the initial part delivery - it went to a wrong address. PartSelect Customer Service was great. I had a less than 5min wait for getting a rep on the line with the 1 call I had to make to get this corrected. And when I did get a rep she was both helpful, friendly and knowledgeable in correcting the situation.

Disassembly: Removed 2 screws with nutdriver. Pulled off electrode connection. Screws were rusted and needed replacement.

Assembly: Slipped on electrode attachment. Went to local hardware store and bought 5/8" 8/18 pan head screws. Used screwdriver to screw down burner head. The 3/8" inch screws on the tech sheet do not work. Too short and flange is too wide to fit in opening in burner head.

This is the 3rd burner head that was replaced . everyone had the screws break off , & had to be drilled out & re tapped .I would not purchase the replacement screws @$4.00 each . They were just plain sheet metal screws that were steel . Better going to a home center & purchasing brass or stainless machine screws at a 1/4 of the cost .If you are not familiar with drilling out broken screws ,then this is not the repair for you .

I thought I had ordered metal knobs but it appears that I got plastic ones. I’m thinking they’ll be fine, the others had just split the shaft that sits on the control stem, but I’m hoping this won’t happen again. I do have a repair question regarding one of the sealed burners on my Jenn-Air. The igniter switch sounds like it’s working but the burner won’t light without putting a match to it. Do you have any ideas of what could be wrong?
Thanks for your help,
Carol Lance

It could not have been easier. All I had to do was switch out the jets in each burner. First I had to sort the new jets and match to the correct burner by referring to the owners manual. Then I removed each burner and replaced the jet one at a time. Finally I had to turn the adjustment screw on each control knob clockwise until it would not turn anymore. Plug in to an electric outlet and it was good to go.

I thought the problem was with one ignitor that had the ceramic piece fall off. After I replaced the ignitor, the hard part was freeing the burner from the Torx screws - drilled both screws out, all five burners started clicking and kept on clicking even when the burners were lit. I needed to get at the electrical of the cooktop, so I needed to take the other four burners off. Six of the eight screws loosened, with the two that didn't I drilled them out. I made sure the circuit was off and unplugged the burner too. Finally I was able to look at the wiring. I checked for burn marks, made sure all the connections were good, checked the grounding wires, and then attached the burners with ignitors. I turned the power back on, plugged it in, and all the burners kept right on sparking. I had been checking on Youtube and talked to a friend, everything pointed to needing a new Spark Module. So I ordered the Spark Module and just had to wait for it to arrive. Once it came, I had done the hard part of getting all the burners off. So, after loosening four hex-head screws, I was able to replace the old Spark Module with the new. I was careful to take a picture of the wiring and burners, as well as the wires coming into the Spark Module to make sure I put everything back the way it was. Finally, I moved one line at a time from the old one to the new one. Took the back clip off and put it on the new one. Then I secured the new Spark Module with the four hex-head screws, fed the wires through the holes in the top of the cooktop by holding it at an angle and working my way from left to right (all while lowering the cooktop), lined up the gas line pipes, and reattached the burners. Turned the power on, plugged it in and it worked! All five burners ignited and worked just like they should. What started out as a simple cleaning of the ignitors, turned into quite a job. Thanks to the ease of PartSelect ordering and reading through these installation instructions I was able to fix my cooktop.

removed the two screws holding the burner to the cooktop, disconnected the wire clip from the electrode then removed worn out electrode from burner. Re-attached the new electrode to the burner, re-attached the igniter wire then put the burner assembly back onto the cooktop

It was very simple two Phillips head screws to remove the burner and one screw to remove the ignitor. It was probably less than a 5 minute job per burner. Unfortunately one burner had a very rusty screw holding the ignitor and the head stripped out. I tried a stripped screw removal tool with no success so I used a drill press to drill the screw out. It still took less than 30 minutes. Now both burners work like new

Removed the old burner knobs by hand, and replaced them with four new knobs.....

Real Easy!!

just replaced with a new one. very easy

Pulled the old one off, pushed the new one on. Super easy. Simple ordering, quick processing and delivery. Way to go PartSelect!

Unscrewed burner assembly and removed wire. Unable to remove electrode screw. Striped head of screw. Tried penetrating oil but no luck. Tried to drill and use easy out bit but ruined burner assembly and had to order new burner assembly. When assembly came it had electrode in place but website does not show electrode with assembly except on one burner. With mail and all it took about a week to fix 2 burners. Returned unused electrode for credit. Overall, cheaper then a service call by far.

Installation is simple and very straight forward. Problem, was i stripped the torx screw to release electrode because the screw was frozen. I then tore electrode out leaving space to use penetrating oil (inaffective ) then using a chisel to pop the screw out. It came out intact and did not damage the threads in the burner. So what could have been a 20 minutes job, turned into over an hour. But still worth doing myself.

The porcelain cracked on the burner igniter, it wouldn’t spark and light the flame. I got tired of using the fireplace lighter to light this main burner.

If you have to replace your igniter, it should be very very easy. Remove the two torx screws Holding the cast iron burner to the stainless steel top. Pull it up and the wire connected to the igniter should pull through the small hole in the stainless steel top. Turn the cast-iron base over, pull the wire off, and there is a little screw Fastening the igniter to the bottom of the cast-iron Base. Remove the old igniter and screw the new igniter in place, reattach the wire, and screw the base down to the stainless steel top. That’s it, or how it should be. After years of spaghetti water, gravy, etc. boiling over, I was only able to remove one of the torx screws after using some WD-40 and a torch to heat it up. The other screw sheared off at the head. And a little screw holding the igniter in place, the Phillips head was stripped! I had to leave the roof or the igniter in place, break off all the porcelain, and then break the rest of the metal off leading the screw in place. So I had to use my Dremel grinder to remove some of the metal on the new igniter, then use some tinfoil underneath it to stabilize it in place and then tighten the cast-iron base down using only one screw. Even with one screw and using the tinfoil, it is stable and everything works now. This $27 part was a heck of a lot cheaper than paying $5000 for a new range top!

Go to YouTube and find video of conversion to your or stove like yours. Then Google your model number to find your manual and find the section that tells the BTU output of each burner. They will be something like this, 5000, 7200, 12500, 15,500, etc. The logic of the orifices is small BTU=small hole in jet, large BTU=large hole in jet. Carefully inspect your jets in the conversion pack and assign which jet goes where according to hole size by burner size and BTU output. If it seems wrong when you start the stove, you might have to swap jets with another burner to get it right. Be sure to convert your incoming regulator to the LP setting by reversing the plunger under the cap. Use crescent wrench to remove cap. You must also be sure to have a regulator on your propane source. Happy converting!