JEC9536ADS Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Gary from Stockton, CA
- Parts Used:
- W10823711
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Glass top electric range element not working
Turned off the power . Removed two screws in front, lifted top, used a piece of wood to hold up,took off wires to bad element removed old element, replaced with the new one, put wires back on ,closed top,screws to front,on with power and cooked dinner!
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- Customer:
- Brian E from Waldorf, MD
- Parts Used:
- W10823704
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Small Element On Counter Top Range Not Heating.
1. Turned off power to trouble shoot the counter top range elements. 2. Raised the counter top up to work on it and slid two evenly placed wooden slats under the bottom of the housfor stability so it would not fall backdown into the counter top cut-out. 3. With a 1/4" nut driver removed the 10 hex-head screw that were holding the black glass top in place, pulled off the 4 . Control knobs and carefully removed the glass cover and carefully seet it aside in a safe place. 5. A visual inspection of the non working element showed that it had a burn out spot causing it not to heat. 6. Got the model number of the appliance and checked the internet for parts suppliers, chose parts elect because they had the part in stock and could overnight it for reinstallation the next day, part did arrive the next morning. A visual inspection show that it was the correct part and it would be a like for like swap out. 7. Prior to replacing the element check to see that the electrical power was still off at the circuit breaker, made a quick sketch of the wiring and identified the wires so that they would be reterminated at the same points. 8. Using the needle nose pliers pulled off the 4 stake on terminations. 9. Lifted out the 6" from the body of the unit , removed the 4 phillips screws holding parts what were to be transfered onto the new element. 10. Transfered parts onto the new element, reinstalled the element into the body of the unit, reinstalled the 4-stake-on wires to there appropriate terminals and verified with previous wiring sketch. 11. Reinstalled the glass top, 10 screw holding it in place and the 4-control knobs. 12 . Turned main power to the unit back on and turned on the replaced element, it work correctly, also checked the other 3 elements to make sure that they were working correctly. 13. When the unit had cooled, removed the wooden slats and lowered the counter top back into its cut-out making sure not to damage the glasstop. Job complete.
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- Customer:
- Jeff from Rossville, GA
- Parts Used:
- W10823713
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Inner element on dual eye burned out
Two screws loosen the cook top so you could get to the six (or was it eight) screws underneath the cook top. Once those screws were out, three more screws were removed to take off the element. Disconnected a couple of wires and the old element was free to be removed. The new element went right back in and screws were put back in reverse order. Less than ten minutes from start to finish.
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- Customer:
- James from Pineville, LA
- Parts Used:
- WP74007840
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Shorted Switch from a pot boiling over
Lift the cooktop out of it's inset in the counter top, flip it upside down and lay it on towels to protect the cooking surface. There is a raised rectangular panel that covers the switches located about the center front of the bottom. Remove this panel with a small nut driver to expose the switches. Now, locate the dead switch and place a strip of masking tape pointing to it and lapping around the edge so it can be seen when the unit is flipped back upright. Flip cook top back upright. Locate the correct switch by observing the masking tape. There are two small, short-threaded, phillips screws holding the switch in place. They must be accessed from the knob hole (remove rubber grommet)and at a slight angle. There is very little room to extract the screws...this is where I used the magnet to magnitize the tip of a small screw driver. Once the screw is free of the threaded hole, lift it with the magnetized screwdriver out through the knob hole. The switch will fall out easily when the two screws are removed. If you drop one of the screws inside the stove top, don't panic, I was able to shake the cook top and retrieve the screw. Now, flip the top back upside down. Using a pair of pliers remove each wire one at a time from the bad switch and connect it to the same terminal on the new switch...this way there can be no mistakes. Be sure the rubber insulator removed from the bad switch and placed on the new one. Position it where the screw holes show through, then place the switch in position. Turn the top back over in the upright position but position it where you can reach underneath it with your left hand. You will have to hold the switch and maybe move it around slightly to aline the screw holes when replacing the screws. Take a screw on the end of the magnetized screwdriver and carefully insert it into the knob hole and into the switch bracket. once you get one started, the other will be easy. I don't recall the screw replacement being any problem, just that you have to handle the screws carefully, so as to not drop one inside the cook top. Now, flip the top back over and replace the cover over the switches and replace the top in it's cabinet. The job is complete, Oh, and don't forget to flip the stove's cirduit breaker BEFORE even touching the stove!
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- Customer:
- Warren C from Slidell, LA
- Parts Used:
- W10823704
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Burner not working
First thing- I cut off power to the range. I then removed two screws to allow the cook top to be lifted. I marked the wiring and replaced the burner. Reapplied power and started cooking!
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- Customer:
- James from Peachtree City, GA
- Parts Used:
- W10823711
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Back heating element stopped working
I had some confusion about the correct series number associated with my stove and called Partselect. They confirmed the part I was looking at was correct in less than 5 minutes. I then completed the order online. Even with standard shipping my order was processed immediately and I received the heating element the next day.
Turned off the breaker. Removed the two screws in the front holding the range top down. Loosened the screws holding the element in place while balancing the range top with my shoulder. Removed the wires from the older element one at a time and attached them to the new element. Put the new element in place and screwed back in place. If I had a little help with the range top I think I could have completed it in 5 minutes but I was at home alone and the other stories of doing this repair made it seem easy enough and it was.
Turned off the breaker. Removed the two screws in the front holding the range top down. Loosened the screws holding the element in place while balancing the range top with my shoulder. Removed the wires from the older element one at a time and attached them to the new element. Put the new element in place and screwed back in place. If I had a little help with the range top I think I could have completed it in 5 minutes but I was at home alone and the other stories of doing this repair made it seem easy enough and it was.
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- Customer:
- Brian L. from Wilkes-Barre, PA
- Parts Used:
- W10823704
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Front left burner quit after bright flash under glass top
I ohmed out the burner element that wasnt working and found it was open. I ordered a new element thru PartSelect and installed it in the stove. I powered up the stove and turned on the burner but it didnt get hot. After a bit of testing I found that the new elements safety overtemp terminals werent in the same configuration as the original unit. I made some wiring adjustments and the burner was operating properly. Thanks PartSelect
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- Customer:
- Buford from Sun City Center, FL
- Parts Used:
- W10823711
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Element Burned out
looked for how to video on you tube. It saved me lots of money. Anyone could do it.
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- Customer:
- John from Clermont, FL
- Parts Used:
- W10823711
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Burnt out burner
Had this range for 6 years. My daughter turned on the burner and it went "pop". She was very upset. I found the best price at PartSelect, and ordered the same day.
the first burner arrived broken in the box. We contacted PartSelect, and they immediately sent another and rushed shipping. It arrived in excellent condition.
To replace the unit: First, I turned off the circuit breaker for the range. Then I removed the two Philips screws that held the cooktop down. Next I removed the nut screws holding the burner to the cooktop.
Then I placed the new burner next to the old one, and one by one swapped the wires (this way I was sure I had the right wire on the right connector). One of the wire connectors broke when removing it from the old burner. PartSelect had provided 4 repacement connector pieces (oddly, all of which were too small for the burner element). So I located a replacement connector at a local hardware store. Stripped the end of the wire and used pliers to fasten the new connector.
After all connectors were secured to the new burner, I screwed the burner to the cooktop, then closed the cooktop and secured it with the two screws.
Turned on the circuit breaker, and it works like new! Saved over $100 by doing it myself!
the first burner arrived broken in the box. We contacted PartSelect, and they immediately sent another and rushed shipping. It arrived in excellent condition.
To replace the unit: First, I turned off the circuit breaker for the range. Then I removed the two Philips screws that held the cooktop down. Next I removed the nut screws holding the burner to the cooktop.
Then I placed the new burner next to the old one, and one by one swapped the wires (this way I was sure I had the right wire on the right connector). One of the wire connectors broke when removing it from the old burner. PartSelect had provided 4 repacement connector pieces (oddly, all of which were too small for the burner element). So I located a replacement connector at a local hardware store. Stripped the end of the wire and used pliers to fasten the new connector.
After all connectors were secured to the new burner, I screwed the burner to the cooktop, then closed the cooktop and secured it with the two screws.
Turned on the circuit breaker, and it works like new! Saved over $100 by doing it myself!
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- Customer:
- Dennis from Seattle, WA
- Parts Used:
- W10823693
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Range element shorted out
I priced a new two-burner unit and it was going to cost $300. I took the broken unit apart, saw that it was an element that had suffered catastophic failure and found partselect on the internet. $60 and three days later I had the part in hand. The repair was "a piece of cake." Thanks for saving me a lot of money.
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- Customer:
- Howard from Citrus Springs, FL
- Parts Used:
- W10823711
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Wrench set
I turned off the range breaker and doubled checked to make sure the power was off . Using 1/4" ratchet wrench I removed 2 sheet metal screws and lifted the glass top up and held it in up with a small cardboard bow. I removed 2 more screws holding the element in place and installed new unit. I then
See description listed as problem
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- Customer:
- Charles from Mamaroneck, NY
- Parts Used:
- W10823693
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
large element failed
Easy removal (lift and pull) of the the two element unit from the Jenn-air stove top. Placed unit right side up on a work surface. used a nut driver to remove 12 screws from the unit. removed the glass cook-top, revealing the two elements. Un-hooked two wires off the old damaged element, placed wires (plug and play) onto the new unit, then replaced the glass cook-top, used the nut driver to replace the 12 screws. Pluged the unit back into the Jenn-air stove top.
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- Customer:
- George from LEXINGTON, MA
- Parts Used:
- W10823693
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
Electric coil burned
The repair was easy but the replacement coil had 4 connections while the old one had only two. After calling the distributor with no explanation of how to solve the problem I was given a telephone number of Jenn Air. They explained that my unit was too old and they no longer provided the part I needed.
I then decided to do the following. Of the 4 connections on the replacement coil, two are larger and two are smaller. I then decided to connect the wires to the two larger connections leaving the small ones free. I replaced the cooktop and WOW it worked. Not sure what the smaller connectors are used for but with old cooktops it seems they are not needed.
I can submit a photo but have no means to do it here
I then decided to do the following. Of the 4 connections on the replacement coil, two are larger and two are smaller. I then decided to connect the wires to the two larger connections leaving the small ones free. I replaced the cooktop and WOW it worked. Not sure what the smaller connectors are used for but with old cooktops it seems they are not needed.
I can submit a photo but have no means to do it here
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- Customer:
- Richard from Fair oaks Ranch, TX
- Parts Used:
- W10823704
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
the left front burner burned out & none of the lights to show if a burner was hot would come on.
FIrst we found the power source ( this took us awhile) and cut the power at the fuse box. then we unplugged the cooktop and started to take out screws. It turned out the screw removal had nothing to do with the stove top coming out. We took the taping knife & pried it under a corner and lifted. the cook top was just sitting on the counter.
The hardest part of the whole job was holding the cook top because we did not disconnect the downdraft fan other than to pull the tape off the vent & fan. Now we could undo the rachet screws that held the glass top to the cook top & remove it.
Theburner was simply a matter of pulling connections loose & placing them on to the new one. The clips that hold the burner in place were removed w/ a screwdriver & replaced on to the new burner. Watch for the numbers on the burner underside to know where to reattache the clips. the unit that lights up to show that a burner is hot would not come off, but we managed to remove
the plastic part even though the clip screw would not loosen, and since it only had to float near by we used the unused wire included in the new part to hold it in place. Putting the unit back together was not too hard, but it took us a little while to get it all lined up. Be carefull of what ever you work on, the downdraft fan scratched up the counter top that we were working on. we started with cardboard under it & should have continued, we did not want to try & remove the fan. Then we put it back in the counter opening & plugged everything back in & to our amazement ( we are not handy people) it worked! the lights that had refused to work when one unit was burned out now worked on all four units. thank you partselect, we were able to do the repair with what you sent.
The hardest part of the whole job was holding the cook top because we did not disconnect the downdraft fan other than to pull the tape off the vent & fan. Now we could undo the rachet screws that held the glass top to the cook top & remove it.
Theburner was simply a matter of pulling connections loose & placing them on to the new one. The clips that hold the burner in place were removed w/ a screwdriver & replaced on to the new burner. Watch for the numbers on the burner underside to know where to reattache the clips. the unit that lights up to show that a burner is hot would not come off, but we managed to remove
the plastic part even though the clip screw would not loosen, and since it only had to float near by we used the unused wire included in the new part to hold it in place. Putting the unit back together was not too hard, but it took us a little while to get it all lined up. Be carefull of what ever you work on, the downdraft fan scratched up the counter top that we were working on. we started with cardboard under it & should have continued, we did not want to try & remove the fan. Then we put it back in the counter opening & plugged everything back in & to our amazement ( we are not handy people) it worked! the lights that had refused to work when one unit was burned out now worked on all four units. thank you partselect, we were able to do the repair with what you sent.
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- Customer:
- Almira from Corpus Christi, TX
- Parts Used:
- WP7737P245-60
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Burner knobs were worn out & would not turn.
Ordered new knobs & now all burners work. Easy installation.
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