C236-C Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

I've ordered parts from you twice now, and both times the service has been absolutely amazing!!!!!

Now, on to how I did this without fire or electrocution:

Turned off breakers.
Grabbed a beer.
Removed two screws holding in plate.
Removed electrical connectors.
Removed two screws holding switch.
Put new switch in place with screws.
Reattached connectors.
Reseated plate & screws.
Turned on power & tested.
Finished beer and felt very manly.

The hardest part was getting the plate to re-seat.

Replaced one of the four burner control switches on my Jennair cooktop. One of the tricks I use to prevent mistakes is putting the new switch along side the existing one and swap one connector at a time over to the new switch preventing any confusion and negating any need to mark the wires. This differs from your video assistant who disconnected all the wires at once.
gc.

After reading the other do-it yourselfers I knew it wasn't going to be an easy task. However, when I received my new switch I saw that the hook up and installation would be a snap. My only problem was removal of the old lock washers so I cut them off with my tin snips and once the new switch was attached to the plate I used a socket on the end of a three inch extension. I placed the socket over the new washer and gently tapped on the end of the extention until the washer was seated. It took about two or three taps on each washer and I was finished. Everything went pretty well. Total time to install was about ten minutes.

Removed old filter, dropped in the new one.
(This really was not a "repair")

Not much to tell about installing a new grill grate.
Partselct.com was very prompt and efficient in sending out the part.

This was a no-brainer: old filter out, new filter in. In addition to replacing an old, greasy filter, I found that the exhaust fan now draws cooking fumes much more efficiently. So why did I wait the 6 years since we moved into this house to do this???

Ok, however, from what I read on the internet those who wrote down their advice and experience regarding this particular part, explained that the push nuts were too small to accomodate the studs. I too had the same problem, and therefore had to get other ones at the local hardware store. Apparently this is inherently a commmon problem. You need to provide push nuts with a slightly larger diameter, so they can be pushed down the studs/pegs.

1. Turn off power at breaker. Take no chances. Turn on each working burner, fan, oven light to be sure there is no power to the appliance. Then, turn them off.
2. Pull knob on switch straight out to remove.
3. Remove 4 Phillips head screws under control panel. Pull panel gently down, then out toward you slightly to release top edge. Rest control panel on self-clean lock knob.
4. Confirm terminals on new switch match up with old switch.
5. Use needle-nose pliers to gently remove wires from old switch one at a time and place them on the
corresponding terminal on new the switch.
6. Reverse steps 3, 2 and 1. Test switch and burner.

Removed cover, disconnected 2 wires, attempted to remove push nuts with nutdriver, screw driver, and pliers to no avail. Cut off metal bracket with diagonal cutters, then cut off push nuts with diagonal cutters. Push nuts with kit would not fit the threaded posts. Found washers and regular nuts to attach the switch. Replaced the 2 spades on the wires (both were burnt) and shrink wrapped both spades. Pushed on the spades and reattached the cover to the cooktop.

1. Flipped breaker and confirmed no power at cooktop.
2. Removed the Fan grille and removed the two screws holding on the control panel. It tilts up and out to the rear.
3. Unscrewed the 2 screws on top holding old switch to panel.
4. Disconnected the wiring one lead at a time and connected it to the new switch in the same spot. There are 5 wires total and I carefully used needle nose pliers to remove reluctant wires and to adjust connectors if they were loose on new switch
5. Screwed the new switch onto the panel and screwed the panel back onto the cooktop.
6. Tested new switch...worked great.

Well I was just guessing the controll switch was bad so I ordered a new one. So I cut off the power and held the switch close to the old one and changed the wires one at a time matching the connection terminals and cut the power back on and presto it WORKED..The service man wanted to charge me 65.00 dollars just to check it out. I figure I saved about 100.00 dollers plus I learned something.

Very simple---shut off the power, removed six screws, detached five wires, replaced control switch, put everything back together, turned on power and made husband happy!!!

Really easy ...followed advice posted from others with same problem. Before anything disconnect the power at the breakers and use a voltage detector to verify there is NO POWER!!!! Only need to remove the two phillips screws on the four controller panel, Slide panel away from you to access the controllers. Match wire/connector for connector from the old to new controller. Reassemble, restore power .. Happy wife!!!. She has been on my case to fix this thing for several years.

I removed two screws that held the switch plate together. Then I removed two screws that held the faulty switch to the swtich plate. I then unpluged one wire at a time from the old switch and pluged it into the new switch. Reattached the switch to the switch plate and then reattached the switch plate to the stovetop. Bingo! Everything worked beautifully. It was so easy and I saved ~ $100.00 by doing it myself, as opposed to a quote that I got from a local repairman.

I removed 2 screws to release the plate that held four the switces. I removed 2 screws to release the bad switch. I removed one wire at a time and connected the to the same post on the new switch, screwed the switch into place and reinsalled the mounting plate. The stove works fine.