C222 Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

The grease filter was 20+ yrs old and the mesh was falling of the frame. I was very pleased to find this replacement filter (the first filter I received was damaged....placed a call to PartSelect and have a new one the next day). Can't beat service like that!! Thank you, June Patten

Wife installed them, they just snap into place on the Rock Grate.

Read privious fixes. Didn't know which control was bad but ordered two new ones. Marked locations of switch contacts and wire colors. Removed old controls. Installed new replacements and everything works fine. Thanks.

Simply pulled the old filter out and put the new filter in.

This down draft filter was just what I was looking for. The big box stores (Home Depot and Lowe's) do not carry this size filter. Thanks,

I have a newer jenn air with the 3 prong elements. The original element was 3 prong 1900W only using one of the controls. Since the stove socket would accommodate 4 prongs I looked up the part for the older stoves (PS2357533)which had 2 elemants using both controls. The element plugged right in and I now have high heat like on my older models and it now grills like it should instead of just heating the stuff up. Highly recommended. One caution you will need a metal piece to support the element since the newer stoves do not use the metal bricketts with supports.

Pulled off the knobs,replaced switch, put on the new knobs. Your web site is easy to use, and your parts are first quality. Dave

took new element out of box, inserted it into stovetop, everything was over in about 2 minutes. It worked just fine.

Turn off circuit breaker to cooktop. Remove 2 screws that hold switch plate assembly.Remove tinnerman nut from old switch using adjustable wrench. Remove one wire at time from old switch to same location on new switch. Return shaft back through hole and replace nut, be careful to not overtighten. Replace control know, turn circuit breaker back on and test. Works like new. Neil

I purchased a replacement. I unplugged the cooktop. Unscrewed the little instrument panel and pulled it out. Turning over the panel, I noted the wires to the switch and photographed them in case I need to check them later. I pulled them off of the old, broken switch and put them onto the new switch, one at a time so that I couldn't get them messed up. Once all of the wires were switched, I removed the old switch and put on the new one. I then plugged in the model and tested the switch. It worked perfectly! IMPORTANT: I then tried to slide the panel back into the cooktop but forgot to unplug it first. This was a huge mistake, causing a nasty flash of electricity and smell. I unplugged the cooktop, put the panel back in, and replugged the cooktop. It worked, fortunately. Moral: ALWAYS unplug the damned cooktop when working on it!

I watched the youtube video that was provided by this website on my computer while doing this repair step by step. It was a snap!

Loosen two screws to remove door. Removed outside trim and other outside screws hold center panel in place. Removed one screw holding hinge in place. Screwed new hinge in place. Re-attached center panel to outside trim and hung door. Easy enough.

We watched the video demo & followed it step by step. The project took about 35 minutes and we replaced the hinge on each side of the oven. First we removed the oven from the wall, then dismantled it & cleaned it thoroughly, removed the old hinges and replaced with new ones. the only problem we had was that the pin holding the hinge open was missing on one of the hinges, but we cut a nail and inserted it to hold the hinge open. The job was completed quickly, and the oven door fits and works well. Thanks for the video--it really helped us.

I switched the circuit breaker off at the electrical panel, removed the burner switch assembly (two screws) from the cook top. The burner switches are held in place by a single nut over the control stem. I unscrewed the nut from the failed switch, disconnected the four electrical leads (one by one) from the old switch and connected them in the same position on the new switch and replaced the nut. The clips on the electrical leads were oxidized/tarnished so I cleaned them with emery cloth to assure good contact with the posts on the switch. Replaced the burner switch assembly in the cook top, energized the circuit and the burner works perfectly again.

Turn off the power!!! Remove two screws from back of switch section and pull toward you. That was the tricky part; it wasn't obvious to me how to remove the section. Then simply revmove the witres from the old switch one by one and put them on the new part. Close it up and you're good to go.