CVG316B Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

Took two screws out of each burner and put new burners in and replaced the screws. A real piece of cake. and they work great. Did not even have to adjust the flames. They were all solid blue and perfect. Bill

Pop off the old and on with the new. Took longer to open the plastic packaging each came in than to remove & replace old knob with new.

I removed the pan and then the burner assembly. Used a nutdriver to remove the old front burner. Replaced with the new part, tightened it on, and tested the new burner. Worked first time. Extremely easy. It took less than 5 minutes to replace.

Slide the knob onto the shaft.

This range is about 17 years old and the igniter on the left set of burners had failed in the first month of use. A warranty repairman came, made a big mess, marred the adjacent counter top, spent a lot of time badmouthing Jenn-Air and left without fixing the problem. We have been manually lighting these burners all this time. Now that I am retired, I have set about repairing everything I can get my hands on just to have things to do. I always did this when I was young but got too busy with career and family. One big help is doing things now is you can Google a problem, find parts and instructions how to make the repair which is much easier than all the research you used to have to do. This repair is easy but time consuming due to all the screws that you have to remove to get to the igniter and the controller in the back. Since one side worked I was confident that the controller was good but the problem was only the igniter on the left side. This range is a dual fuel unit and has a downdraft connection so sliding it out from the wall is also time consuming. First pull the breaker at the electric panel. Remove the bottom plate and disconnect the flexible downdraft connection. Hopefully, you have enough flexible gas line so you can slide stove out to reach the back without having to shut off the gas and removing the connection. Next you remove the grills and burners. Then you have to remove all the screws connecting the top of the stove. There are nuts and washers that surround the gas jets that you can remove to partially lift the drip pan so you can unscrew the old igniter and install the new one. Next remove the back and see where the igniter control is located. Disconnect the old wire, install the new wire in the guides and insert in the controller. At this point all you need to do is put everything back where it was. This does not take a lot of know-how just time and patience. It makes you wonder why an "expert" could not have done this easily.

Old filter allowed too much air flow causing exhaust fan to go off....installed new filter in exhaust chamber...release clip on old filter and install new filter (at an angle) in the exhaust box....clamp down clip on edge of filter and job is complete

removed rear cover where the spark module was and change it

UNPLUG THE POWER CORD! This particular model is a (slide-in) unit, it was wedged between to fixed cupboards/cabinets. Therefore, there are really no side panels to speak of, this made the repair slightly easier. I simply slid the unit out enough to unplug the power cord and access the right side of the unit. All one needs, at this point, is a Phillips head screw driver to remove a small metal panel installed just below the stove top panel (right side of range), its held with approx. 8 screws. There is one other panel that must be removed as well, (you may want to remove this panel first). It is an enameled-like panel approx. 5" wide x 36" long located at the front of the range (right side) running the length/height of the range (held with 2 screws). Get those 2 panels removed and you will see the spark module attached near center of range just under stove-top panel. Module is attached to a small metal bracket, module has 6 wires attached to it (2 feeding the module and 4 exiting the module to the burners). Bracket screws are nearly impossible to get at (you need a very stubby Phillips screw driver, if you can even get your hand in there). Anyway, I simply released the module from the bracket, then carefully bent the bracket back toward me; to provide work area for my hands. The bracket bends easily and really can't be broken. Now, at this point (using longer needle-nose pliers) detach the wires from the old module (remembering each wires location) or, as I did, hold the replacement module near the existing module and transfer the wires one at a time. Now, slap it all back together as you took it apart. Really simple job, total time is easily/generally under 30 minutes. It may be easier to access the module by removing all the burner components and raising the stove-top? Not sure? I chose not to do the repair that way. Hard part was locating where the manufacturer hid the module on the range. :- ) D.I.Y.ers Rock!!!

removed two hexigon screws--removed old burner---placed new burner into stove socket--replaced two screws. Done in about five minutes. Most time used to fine right size socket to fit screws! Fast delivery--easy repair--AND it works!