CVG316B Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

Turn off the gas supply and unplug the electric supply. Remove the top grates and the burner cartridges. Remove 12 screws around the top cover and loosen the two screws for the fan switch. Pull the fan switch up and out of the way, remove the top cover. With a marking pen, label the four igniter switches and pull them off the gas valves. From underneath, remove the gas line from the pressure regulator, then remove the regulator from the pipe coming from the circular manifold. With a 3/16 socket (1/4 inch drive) or a 3/16 nut driver, remove the four screws that hold the manifold. Then from the top pull the manifold up and out. On the bottom, remove the screw (1/4 inch socket or nut driver) and remove the old gas valve. That's it. Now just put it all back together in reverse order. I used pipe joint compound on the pipe threads. Check for leaks with a soapy water solution. If I had to do this again, it would only take me half the time. I wasn't sure how everything came apart the first time..

Inside the knob, I placed a dab of CA glue on the small plastic projection , which was designed to press against the metal post, but was just shy of it. By thus building it up the knobs function perfectly.

The only problem was the little push nuts that came with the new part were too small for the posts on the stove top. I had to go to hardware and buy some for about 10 cents that fit. Other than that, everything was great. Great service from this company!

Easily removed the switch housing. After that, the other experiences really helped me as the retainer rings on the old switch would not come off and I broke one of the threaded posts about a eight of an inch from the base. I pried the other one off, more carefully, with a screw driver and a vice grip pliers . I was already to use the "super glue" solution when I luckily found an old nut that fit the one remaining threaded post.

UNPLUG THE POWER CORD! This particular model is a (slide-in) unit, it was wedged between to fixed cupboards/cabinets. Therefore, there are really no side panels to speak of, this made the repair slightly easier. I simply slid the unit out enough to unplug the power cord and access the right side of the unit. All one needs, at this point, is a Phillips head screw driver to remove a small metal panel installed just below the stove top panel (right side of range), its held with approx. 8 screws. There is one other panel that must be removed as well, (you may want to remove this panel first). It is an enameled-like panel approx. 5" wide x 36" long located at the front of the range (right side) running the length/height of the range (held with 2 screws). Get those 2 panels removed and you will see the spark module attached near center of range just under stove-top panel. Module is attached to a small metal bracket, module has 6 wires attached to it (2 feeding the module and 4 exiting the module to the burners). Bracket screws are nearly impossible to get at (you need a very stubby Phillips screw driver, if you can even get your hand in there). Anyway, I simply released the module from the bracket, then carefully bent the bracket back toward me; to provide work area for my hands. The bracket bends easily and really can't be broken. Now, at this point (using longer needle-nose pliers) detach the wires from the old module (remembering each wires location) or, as I did, hold the replacement module near the existing module and transfer the wires one at a time. Now, slap it all back together as you took it apart. Really simple job, total time is easily/generally under 30 minutes. It may be easier to access the module by removing all the burner components and raising the stove-top? Not sure? I chose not to do the repair that way. Hard part was locating where the manufacturer hid the module on the range. :- ) D.I.Y.ers Rock!!!

The spare part came within two days after I place the order on line. I drew a simple wire diagram of the faulty switch-regulator. Shut off the power to the stovetop, before removing the four terminals on the faulty switch-regulator. I pushed the old regulator up from the center pin and replaced it with the new regulator. The next step was to reinstall the four wire terminals using my wire diagram. Final step was to turn the power back to the stovetop and test the new switch-regulator.

Removed the two screws that hold burners on mounting bracket . Removed burners and installed new burners. re-adjusted air flow to elimenate yellow flame.

It is so easy. Once I found the right size of filter from the website, I ordered it right away. It came in 3 days and I just need to take out the old one and insert the new one. No instruction is necessary. By the way, the price of the filter is one third of that from Jenn-air.

After getting help from customer support, I was able to order the part. I tracked the part on FED EXp.
After deliver the part was installed and working in 5 minutes. All that for less than $50.00.

Took less than 15 mins to remove the old switch and replace for the new one.
Works like new!

Simply removed the front burner using 1/4 incn nutdriver on
two screws.placed new burner in position and tightenwd two screws.
Simplest and easiest job I ever did!
Works as new!

Called Parts select and they replaced it in two days.

just removed two screws - took old unit out - put new unit in.

Remove grates and pan. unscrew each burner from the metal cross mount bar, keeping in mind, the position of the cross mount bar.(Mine was not reversible.) Reverse the procedure with the new burners.
Adjust the air opening to eliminate any yellow flame. The air opening is located immediately adjacent to where the burner pipe goes into the cooktop. (Near the front of the cooktop in my case.)

Biggest problem was making sure the correct parts were ordered.

Easily removed the housing - difficult part was removing old fasteners from posts - took 20 minutes caerfully using knive, needle nose pliers, screw driver. Used old fasteners - new ones provided were too small for posts.