C236NGW Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

Removed top and front panel

Well I was just guessing the controll switch was bad so I ordered a new one. So I cut off the power and held the switch close to the old one and changed the wires one at a time matching the connection terminals and cut the power back on and presto it WORKED..The service man wanted to charge me 65.00 dollars just to check it out. I figure I saved about 100.00 dollers plus I learned something.

Very simple---shut off the power, removed six screws, detached five wires, replaced control switch, put everything back together, turned on power and made husband happy!!!

1. Diagnosed problem = switch at fault not element
Made a diagram of wire positions on faulty switch
2. Ordered part = remarkable service! Switch arrived in less than 24 hours
3.Installed new switch
4. Tested appliance = success!
5. Saved $150 and a lot of aggravation
Terrific site. Excellent help in figuring out and solving the problem. Two thumbs up!

The repair is very easy. Part Select is awesome as far as getting you to the right parts. Just remember that when you do a repair with electricity that you take the time to shut off all possible power sources. I did not and got lucky that I did not injure myself because I did not know the fan switch was also bad. This caused a direct contact with a metal part on the control switch housing while I was disassembling the stove top control. Take your time and think. Should have no problems. Norbert.

1. Flipped breaker and confirmed no power at cooktop.
2. Removed the Fan grille and removed the two screws holding on the control panel. It tilts up and out to the rear.
3. Unscrewed the 2 screws on top holding old switch to panel.
4. Disconnected the wiring one lead at a time and connected it to the new switch in the same spot. There are 5 wires total and I carefully used needle nose pliers to remove reluctant wires and to adjust connectors if they were loose on new switch
5. Screwed the new switch onto the panel and screwed the panel back onto the cooktop.
6. Tested new switch...worked great.

We followed the instructions on the video after receiving our part - they were perfect instructions and led us right through the repair. I have to say it would have been harder to do with one person - but probably doable.

Took the door apart and replaced the hinge, very easy

Easy as Pie.

How I did the repair is no consequence. The service of easily finding the part on your site is GREAT! and the shipping time more than reasonable! Thanks!

Thanks, have been looking for a replacement for this dinosaur filter forever. It is great!

Followed the directions. Piece of cake!!

First I moved the left rear burner to the right front. No change. Then I moved the burner units from left to right, No change. I guessed it was the control switch and ordered from PartSelect. Turnaround time from PartSelect was excellent.
I turned off the powerr to the range. Removed the screws holding on the front panel and then pulled the panel out far enough to see behind it. I located the faulty control switch and then held the new switch, next to it, and turning to proper orientation. I then, one at a time moved the wires to the new switch. After that it was mount the new switch, put the panel back in place and turn on the power.

I removed the cover plate for the burner switches and verified the wiring on the other switches. I had removed the bad switch a few years ago and I needed to make sure that the wiring was correct. I did not keep the original screws that hold the switch in place, because I destroyed them when I first removed the old switch. The were corroded from years of cleaning solution. I made new screws from longer wall socket screws by shortening them with a hacksaw. The entire process took about 30 minutes to do, and the results were good. The new switch is smoother than the others, but functions exactly the same.

Used a multimeter to determine that power was going to the surface burner infinite switch. Then determined that power was not going from the output side of the switch to the burner element. Turned power to range off at the breaker box. Removed eight screws total on range top, four on the cartridge side, two located on back of control plate where the downdraft vent is located and two on the double fixed burner side. Raised the range top to gain access to the infinite switch assemblies. Removed to torx head screws retaining the infinite switch and then disconnected the five wires on the bottom one at a time, making sure to replace in the exact location on the new switch. Installed torx screws in the new switch and installed all screws back into range top. Reinstalled cartridge and burners and turned power back on. Tested rear burner and all functioned properly.