1151WA-36G Hoover Cooktop - Instructions

Cut broken wire and existed wire off and put splice on both new and old wires to connect them.
It's easy job.

I removed the burner elements for three burners by lifting the surface top and unplugging them. I snapped out the plug sockets that were burned out and cut the two wires, one element at a time. Using the included wire nuts I stripped the ends of the cut wire and connected each wire to one of the wires on the new socket. Once the wires were connected I snapped the sockets in place and reinstalled the elements, lowered the surface top and the range was ready to use.

After buying a 'universal' part at Lowe's and it not fitting correctly and shorting out the burner, I went online and found this source for an exact replacement part. Beside having to disassemble the drop in stove burner two or three times it went well when I had the correct part. I lost one screw somewhere and that delayed me a short time to find a replacement. Thus the 1 to 2 hours. It would have been about a 30 minute job if I had been smarter.

The repair itself is really quite easy. Cut the wires, strip the ends and attach the new receptacle with wire nuts. The hard part was getting to it. My cooktop is about 30 years old, so I had to wade through piles of nasty built up grease. Some of the sheet metal screws were unworkable, so I had to cut them off with a Dremel tool. Not a pretty picture, but that's how repair work is on old stuff.

This worked out GREAT. We were about to purchase a new range when I found the needed parts were available. The stores we had contacted had told us our range was too old to have parts available. I had no problem with installing the receptacle at all. The pans went in easly as excepted. My wife is happy with her NEW arrangement. She does not need to learn how to operate a new range. Thanks for your help. The instructions sent were clear and easy to follow.

used drill to remove old screw

I was unable to remove the screw which held the electrical element.. so I took the new surface burner receptacle and removed the metal part, and used the old one and put in the new one in the old metal part and rewired, and it is like new.. now I need to do another one.

Replacement was simple. Old switch was easily removed. Once I swapped the wires from old to new we were in business. One thing I would do differently than the included directions called for. I wish I had waited until I had installed the new switch to set the shaft length. I snapped off one too many sections of the shaft after measuring the original shaft as recommended. If I had installed the replacement switch and then set the shaft length it would have been more accurate. Everything still works but one knob is now slightly lower than the other three.

I broke the correct post from the new cluster of post selections and stuck it on. I had the kit for a couple of weeks before I realized that this was not an electrical problem. It would have been good of you to send only the new plastic post. That kit was intimidating for a 73 year old woman who lives in the country and does most of her own plumbing and other household repairs. The repair took less that one minute.

The repair only took me 10 minutes to do. I purchased the surface replacement kit from partselect.com. The part arrived in two days. The instructions were very simple. I read the instructions on line during my purchase. When I received the new part, I simply did the repair. Including shipping, the cost was less than $20.00. A service call would have been at least 5x the cost. Thank you for being there Partselect. (Tim from south bend indiana)

New receptacle element. I am a girl and I did it.!!!!

Remove heat coils, take body of coil inserts out, remove screws from body, cut old receptacle out, tie new recptacle wires to the old piece of left over wires using wire nuts, and reassemble body, insert heating coils and test.

Shut off power at breaker box. Removed top burner unit. Removed old receptacle (Mounting screw was rusty so I drilld out the old one.) Cut wires from old unit. Stripped wires back on old unit. Attached old and new wire with ceramic wire nut. Attached new unit. Reinserted top unit. Reconnected power and "voila". Wife was smiling again.

Well, I had to search a bit deeper in the internet to find out that the problem was not with the surface burner (which did look a bit burned out anyway) but rather with the surface burner switch (Part Number: PS336885) which must have ben damaged by the heat of the closest burner. If this problem would have been better documented (or if I would have searched more carefully) I would have saved over $40 with parts (Surface Burner Receptacle Kit) that I didn't quite need. Repairing the switch was very easy, thanks also to the available video , even though the stove used on this video (front panel) didn't quite match mine (top-back panel).

Was easy cut the wires of as told to do wire nut the ends together and put back together and tested and worked great. Done