PGP9830TJ1WW General Electric Cooktop - Instructions

A rubber grate foot on my range top had worn out. I pulled the worn foot out and installed the new grate foot with no tools or accessories. Good as new! Now I don't have to worry about the grate scraping my range top and scratching the paint. I also ordered extras so I won't have to wait if another wears out.

I unscrewed the burners which was three screws per burner then removed gas control knobs and pulled up range top and un hooked the old module and replaced it with the new one two screws hold it in place and connected it the same way the old one was and put range back together and now it works perfect and saved me over $250.00 and part only coated around $40 with shipping great parts seller and I highly recommend partselect.com very easy fix thanks

I was pretty upset as the grate wobbled, so I went on line and looked for GE Profile parts. To my amazement, I found the little rubber feet quite easily, and within 2 days they were here at my home. I simply had to stick them in the holes; however, I noted that they did not fit real tight, so I removed them and shot a little glue on them, and they have been in place ever since. Thanks to you guys, I am a happy camper now!!!

Inserted the grate foot into the spot provided; after consulting the parts manuel to insure I was using the proper procedure.

I do use silicone to help hold the foot but it still won't hold

Replaced worn or missing Grate Foot with new ones. Took less than 5 minutes.

The controls are on the glasstop and no way to access them from below, so the glass top has to be removed by removing any straps/braces from below and raising the rangetop housing above the counter height.

The foil tape connecting to the downdraft ductwork will need to be removed. Make sure you have foil tape to reseal this connection.

The black foam tape between the cooktop housing and the countertop will need to be separated with a putty knife. Be sure to have the 1/4” low density foam tape on hand for replacement.

Remove the 6 knobs by lifting them upward and then lift the housing above counter height.

The loosened housing can be supported by two pieces of 1x2 that straddle the opening. The sheet metal screws around the perimeter are easily removed and a putty knife under the glass should release the glass. Once the glass is removed, you’ll see an electrical control box with the 6 switches. The fan switch is held in place with two screws. The switch can then be accessed from the side and replaced. Just note the 4 colored wires and move them to the new switch. There’s a 5th contact that’s unused.

Reassembly is straightforward but you’ll need to remove any remaining foam tape, clean the underside and the countertop before applying the new tape.

Cut off approx. 1/8" in length for correct fit.

Replaced Spark Module and adjusted igniters

I had to drill the hole to a larger size to enable the foot to fit.

there were no grate pads so it was easy to add them.

Nothing technical.

Used scribe to remove grate foot plug still in grate inserted new foot.

First remove the screws around the inside perimeter of the door. These require a special hex driver. Take off the inside plastic liner of door.
Peal off the old Insulation Foam Strip and replace it with the new strip in the same location. Make sure the wires are off to the right side. Replace the door plastic liner. Done. The Insulation Foam Strip really acts more like a loose gasket to keep spashing from creeping under the door and drippin out on the floor.

I ordered the spark module and replaced it which was veru simple, plugged it in and it sparked only now and again. I finally said forget it and it has now stopped sparking but for how long I do not know.

Removed the knob and replaced it with the new knob. Didn't even break a sweat!