JGP336BEV2BB General Electric Cooktop - Instructions

Really simple..Opened the top of the oven and followed the four wires hooked to the igniters on the burners to the back of the oven. Unscrewed top section in back of oven. Found spark module screwed to uppper back of oven on right side. Used a nutdriver to take a few screws out of upper back of oven. Unscrewed spark module from oven. There are six wires - four to the burners and two to the power supply....Wires are attached by connectors so didn't have to do anything but pull the connectors off the old spark module one at a time and push them onto the new spark module matching postion of each wire. Screwed spark module back onto back of oven. Screwed back section of oven back onto rear of oven, and that was it. Works perfectly. Saved more than $100 for service call and whatever elevated price they'd charge me for the spark module.

Assumed the entire top of the range would have to be lifted off. Removed the three screws inside the top of the over door and then noticed the two screws holding the dish around the burner. They were tight and required WD-40 and then a sharp tap and came off.
Important: Notice the direction your old igniter is plugged into the wire. It is not clear and can go on either way.

Called GE for part number crossover from gray to black and asked for an email quote. Called Parts Select for pricing, which was alot lower! Shipping took five days and less then $8.00 buck....now mama's happy!!!! Thanks for great frendly service from Mike in California.

first I removed all the srews from the burners that hold the glass cooktop. I then disconected the two wires from the damaged gas valves and replaced them all four with the new ones. After that I put it all togehter and work just fine and celebrated with a good cold beer.

Repair was quite easy. Remove four screws and lay back sheet metal panel. Transfer wires from one module to the other and then put new module in place. replaced the sheetmetal panel. Spark now presen at all burners. One small thing worth mentioning. Each burner has a gas distrubution cap and that cap has a small hole to the spark cavity. One of these was pluged with grease and that kept the burner from lighting until this hole was cleared.

Three were simple screw out and replace with a nut driver. The warming burner had a smaller opeining which was too large for the nut driver. Had to remove shielding aroound it first. Simple, job. My mother did the last one.

I located the igniter module by following the wires to the top/rear of the stove. Removed two sheet metal guards and marked and numbered each electrical wire before removing them. Reasembled in reverse order. Wife thinks I'm a genius!

Took top off, removed wires from old spark module and put them on new one. Very easy and quick, works very well now.

Removed spark module only two small nuts. Inside was six wires on terminal. Removed one by one and connected right to the new module. Easy job 10 minutes and finished.

Simply replaced with new knob that was a perfect match and fit. Thanks for the reliable service. I am a first time customer and promise to be a return customer.

Lid Switch.
Rewiring connection.
Function is satisfactory.
Fan belt ordered is saved.
A 1970 Clothes Washer.

Most videos show getting to the igniter module from the front when in fact with this older GE its accessed through the back left corner from the backside. So easy, a few screws and I was in. Quick change out and all worked well again.

First I elevated range top, then removed cracked electride from connector pin. Installed new electrode and lowered range top and all was fine.

Removed six screws on the back panel. Just switched six wires from the old to the new module. Stove burners work perfectly now.

Removed several screws and removed element. Replaced same. Total ten minutes.