JP328WK2WW General Electric Cooktop - Instructions

Just put them on the stem.

1) Make sure unit switches are turned off. 2) Lift Calrod unit up and pull it from electrical receptacle. 3) Withdraw Calrod unit from old bowl. 4) Insert Calrod unit through large hole in new bowl. 5) Push Calrod electrical connectors into receptacle under range top. 6) Seat Calrod unit on bowl rim and insert the assembled Calrod unit and bowl into the hole in the range top.

Removed burners and existing drip bowls and installed new drip bowls and existing burners took approximately 15 minutes

pull out, push in

I was very excited to get them in the mail but waited to install after a clean up but when I finally opened the box I found I only ordered 1 6 inch drip bowl. lol Now that I know they fit when I reorder I am ordering a who new set for later use.

I needed to replace all stovetop bowls and found all after-market bowls "just a little off" effecting how flat the burner rested so called PartSelect's hotline and was assured that if I were using the actual model number found on the stove the parts would definitely fit and not almost fit, guaranteed, and they did!

Dropped in new bowls. I was surprised how in-expensive new ones were.

Not really a repair. But would like to say, I like the price and shipping was super fast. Thanks.

unplugged burners replaced drip bowls plugged in burners

I ordered new drip bowls and put them in place. They fit just fine.

replaced pans- what I would like to comment on is the time- I ordered one day at noon and had them the next day at noon- I live in tiny town on northern border of USA- it was awesome- I couldn't believe it was them- 24 hours- super job and excellent price too

Unplug heating elements and pick up drip bowels and reinstall elements.

Remove old burnner bolws and install new ones

First switched the 8" elements and found that both elements worked. Next the cooktop was raised and placed on the prop. It is necessary to remove the knobs to accomplish. Just pull streight up and set on the side of the counter top. I next checked the current flowing to the element with the switch on (red light lit) and found that only one wire going to the element had power. At this time I went to the breaker box and turned off all power to the unit. Now you can remove the four screws to the switch housing box, one on each side and two in the back. Lift up the housing so you can see the switches. The one that controlled the failing burner showed a burn mark around one of the wire terminals. I tried to remove the wire and found that the terminal detached from the switch and showed signs of burning. One can see that the switch needed replaceing. I then put everything back togeather again making sure to keep the burnt terminal with the wire attached well insulated with electrical tape. Now you can order the switch and continue using the remaining burners that are working. When the new switch arrives, kill the power to the cook top and repeat the above disambley until to you get to the switch. Remove the screws used to mount the switch to the housing box. Hold the new switch next to the old one and switch the wires to the corrisponding terminals on the new switch. Install the new switch back in the housing box and reverse all proceedures until finished. Plug the element back in. Now have someone stand by the cook top while you turn the power back on. Tell them to let you know if they hear any sounds coming from the unit when the breaker is back on. You should now have two working 8" elements. I did.

Just had to change out the drip bowls, easy. But, I wanted to comment on the quick delivery on the new bowls. I was impressed. Thank you.