JP385WV1WW General Electric Cooktop - Instructions

The repair is simple, pull out the old, plug in the new. The most difficult aspect of the repair is to make sure that you have the right part. As this is an old stove, and it was a builder model, the model number did not match exactly, and I got the wrong part which I had to return. Look at the pictures carefully as many of the parts look similar.

Removed the terminal block. Cut the wires. Cut the sheathing to expose the wire. Connected the new wires with the old wires by twisting them together. Added the wire nut and reconnected the block. Tested ok.

It wasn't so much the repair that was needed as how impressed I was with the fast delivery. Without a fourth burner & a holiday weekend coming up I was in desperate need of my element. I ordered it around 1:00 pm on a friday & it was delivered the next day before noon! Very impressed with the ease of ordering & receiving. Thanks again.

changed element

I removes the old element and drip bowl, then replaced the drip bowl, then replaced with the new element. Approximatly 3 minutes. . .

This is an easy repair and for anyone thinking that they might have trouble effecting it, you all have my assurance that all the heat related elements are easily replaced. These elements are basically plug in and there is a shielded area (usually placed in the northeast quadrant of the burner unit. With everything turned off, pull the burnt out surface element up and toward the southwest. It should unplug from the female receptacle. Installing a new element involves performing this in reverse by coming into the surface with the prongs facing downward towards the receptacle and then pushing towards the northeast and downward at the same time The element should click into place. The entire time necessary to effect this repair should be less than ten minutes.

First I shut off the breakers. I cut the wire from the end of the new part and took off the plastic off because the end of the new wire has a special end clamp to connect to the old wire which is in the stove but that wire didn't have the same clamp to be able to connect them together therefore I needed to cut the wire to from the new part also and connect it to the old wire with a wire nut which is on the range which is attached to all the other burners. Twisted them together and I put a wire nut to hold them strong together, pushed in the end of the burner into the 2 holes of this new part. I turned on the breakers.

In a little over 15 minutes, I was able to pull the element and pan, snip the wires on the terminal block and use the wire nuts to fasten the new terminal block. The shrink wrap tubing went into place easily and all went back together easily. Best of all, the two year problem of a poor element connection was solved in a matter of minutes for a few dollars.

as described on video,with no problems,very helpful

My GE range is 20 years old, and still going strong. All I needed was to replace the 6" surface unit. After making slight adjustments, it was just a matter of placing the new unit. After finding this Co. on the internet, and checking others, I will certainly order from Part Select again!Dorothy Trakshel

really easy, remove old and replace with new...easy, once you have ordered and received the correct part.

Replace the sucket for the heating element.

Followed the U-Tube video and did not have any problem. The video instructions were right on and complete from start to finish. Thanks for the information and instructions.

I just went to your web page and indicated I needed an 8' surface element and up popped a picture; I ordered it and plugged it in and it works perfectly. I didn't need a model number, or a part number. Three cheers for a simple solution and a 1st class web page!

I simply followed the instructions on the PartSelect website. Since the range is 20 years old, I replaced all four terminal blocks. I used needle nose pliers to carefully nurse the old terminals off the burner controls, and used fine sandpaper to burnish the male contacts on the burner controls. Since the failed terminal block wire had overheated, I burnished the burner contacts that slip into the terminal blocks to eliminate any resistance that could cause overheating. So far, all burners are working great!