JP328SK2SS General Electric Cooktop - Instructions

Unplug heating elements and pick up drip bowels and reinstall elements.

Ordered new recepticle. Was suprised at the cost but when received it was all four recepticles; a complete set of recepticles for all four burners. This actually lowered the price per recepticle. I only replace the bad one. Inserting the wires in the channel and plugging the wires into the switch. It was easier then I initially thought. I now have three spares.

Light on Cooktop stove, First I get my voltage meter and set it to AC, THen I open the lid and checked each element were it plugs into the sockit for any voltage on it, 3 of them should read close to zero, the one that has voltage on it is the bad one, Note the color wires...Then goto the breaker box and turned off the power to the stove, always a double breaker, removed all the elements and pans becaused the next step requires you to open the lid fully...take a nutdriver and removed the control panel and were the wire connect to the control, write down the numbers and order part for these great people, part# WB23K1004...Then put the control panel back together and leave the bad one element disconected...this will save you on the eletric bill, Turn power back on, you will note the lite is still on, that is ok,no voltage going to the bad one...When you get the part in the mail, About less one week, do the same above and When you get to the part when you removed the control panel, Make sure the power is Turned OFF, the take the new part and set it next to the bad one and take each wire off using small pilers and connect one by one on to the new control, then removed the old control by unscrewing it with the two screws holding it in, installed new control, then put everything back together and installed elements and pans, then turned on the power to the cooktop stove....you will note the power lite is now off

Not really a repair. But would like to say, I like the price and shipping was super fast. Thanks.

replaced

unplugged and installed

Remove old burnner bolws and install new ones

used my hands to remove heating element, then remove drip bowls, then install new bowls, then install heating elements, done!!!!!

Remove broken parts and install new cover indicator light. Tighten the threaded collar on the backside of the top. Turn cook-top on to check the indicator light....works. Job finished!

Ordered new parts. Received email with tracking number. Parts arrived as promised. Turned off power at breaker (!). Removed burners and pans. Lifted the lid of the range. Inspected the plugs and discovered one had come loose from bracket and was not in straight. Reset plug in bracket. While the lid was open, placed the drip bowl in opening and installed the burner and made sure the burner was laying properly in the drip bowl. Repeat for each. Perfect fit, If done properly, the small burners should lay down flat and not rock back and forth. I have seen complaints about rocking, and experienced some of it on one burner. Make sure the heating element is set in the plug well and it should work. A little patience may be required to get it just right. Everything lays flat and the stove looks new again. I have purchased from Part Select on other projects including a dryer rebuild and a new face plate for this range. Great products, reasonable prices, wonderful tutorial videos and good service.

removed the burners and dropped the drip bowls in. Very easy to do,

just pulled the old one out and replaced with new one. very easy

unplugged burners replaced drip bowls plugged in burners

Husband just snapped in place in about 8 seconds! Thanks for the fast delivery and pleasant staff assistant.

First switched the 8" elements and found that both elements worked. Next the cooktop was raised and placed on the prop. It is necessary to remove the knobs to accomplish. Just pull streight up and set on the side of the counter top. I next checked the current flowing to the element with the switch on (red light lit) and found that only one wire going to the element had power. At this time I went to the breaker box and turned off all power to the unit. Now you can remove the four screws to the switch housing box, one on each side and two in the back. Lift up the housing so you can see the switches. The one that controlled the failing burner showed a burn mark around one of the wire terminals. I tried to remove the wire and found that the terminal detached from the switch and showed signs of burning. One can see that the switch needed replaceing. I then put everything back togeather again making sure to keep the burnt terminal with the wire attached well insulated with electrical tape. Now you can order the switch and continue using the remaining burners that are working. When the new switch arrives, kill the power to the cook top and repeat the above disambley until to you get to the switch. Remove the screws used to mount the switch to the housing box. Hold the new switch next to the old one and switch the wires to the corrisponding terminals on the new switch. Install the new switch back in the housing box and reverse all proceedures until finished. Plug the element back in. Now have someone stand by the cook top while you turn the power back on. Tell them to let you know if they hear any sounds coming from the unit when the breaker is back on. You should now have two working 8" elements. I did.