JCP350BA1BB General Electric Cooktop - Instructions

Turn off breaker.
Lift cook top from counter.
Remove perimeter screws from glass cook top and remove glass.
Remove screws attaching control.
Replace control and leads.
Note: 4 of 5 lead attachment marking points matched old control - I had to guess the fifth. "P" on old was attached to "PC" on new. Attachment points on new were configured differently from old. The leads were just barely long enough to reach.
Replaced perimeter screws and cooktop.

Turn off breaker removed cooktop from countertop . Removed Phillips screws remove glass top .Remove two screws holding switch & reinstalled

Remove ten screws that attach top then remove top. Remove four screws holding switches in place and lift for access. remove two screws from switch. Record wire color for positions P L1 L2 for proper positioning on replacement switch. One wire was to short so had to make a two inch extension to complete the hookup. Reassemble and the burners work as original.

Just pushed the new knobs down where they went

Remove stove top from cabinet. surf for you tube videos to replace switch.

Replaced them with 2 new knobs. They arrived almost immediately; terrific service.

Removed wires from bad element, replaced with new element, rewired, turned back on----repaired

Just follow the directions on the website.

Just replaced the knob, no tools needed. The knob I ordered was the exact type of my old one so was no problem. Thanks for fast shipping and correct item.

Cooktop lifted out without the need to remove any fastening of any kind. Slid two 2X2 sticks under top to have access to screws around perimeter. After removing all screws I lifted the glass top from base. I did all of this before I placed the order to make sure that I was ordering the correct element. Good thing that I did that because there are two similar replacements. I would have ordered the wrong one and the more expensive one had I guessed. The replacement unit has a wire lead with a insulated connector and a diagram where to install it. The original wiring connectors were plenty long enough to reach the terminals. Because of a slight change in the required connections per their diagram I decided to use the new wire, maybe a distance between terminals required the new insulated connector. Be careful when pushing the wire connections on the terminals, I pressed on the heat insulator ring and cracked it. Everything worked out great. The most amazing thing that happened, even though I ordered normal shipping, the element arrived in 24 hours. Can't say enough about Part Select.

Raised cooktop......took 8 screws from trim plate and cook surface off.....removed 4 more screws off switch mount bracket, removed 2 screws from switch and mount bracket ( switch now free) ...pulled off wires and connectors one at a time, and put the wire on corresponding new switch location.... Took a total of 30 minutes.... Cleaned cooktop surface too! Cautions...don't tighten ANY screw too tight, as stripping will occur.

Getting to the control switch was the hardest. Handling our 35" cooktop was tricky. The rest went fairly easy. Just make sure you make a diagram of the colored wires and where they go on the switch. We had to expand the holes in the switch a little to get the old screws lined up.. Putting the cooktop back together was easy.

We never could figure out how to get the glass top removed to replace the burner. Looked at several instuctional videos and they never wrong in their description of where the 2 screws were to remove it. We finally called Sears Repair. They came out the next day and fixed the problem. The scres were on the side of the stove unit, not under the oven door. Oh well, atleast it works. Part select is excellent and I would use them again. This is the 3rd time I've ordered parts.