XGBS400DM1BB General Electric Cooktop - Instructions

On each side of the door at the top you will find an allen screw, remove those to remove the cover plate. This will prevent the new glass from sitting flush with the door, if not removed. On the inside of the door, you will find two more silver hex screws, these release the glass frame. On the flimsy part that seperates from the main door frame, there are two small brackets that hold the glass panel at the bottom of the door. Carefully pry out all the ramaining glass shards, and believe me they are there, so be very careful and vacuum up immediately to prevent cuts later. The glass frame will be very wobbly, so position yourself in front and place one knee up to support the frame and place the new glass panel in the bottom slot first, then just hold it up, and reinstall the top brackets. These fit tightly on the glass, so expect to have to push a bit. Now reinstall the screws, fold both parts together, use the silver screws to reconnect the glass panel assembly to the door frame.My oven door handle never had to come off.

First I removed the broiler from the bottom of the oven, then pulled the oven way from the wall to unplug it. I then removed the two screws that hold the igniter element in place. Ironically, the plug GE manufactures is reversed so i had to strip the plug and go end and reverse the wires to attach them to the oven. I used ceramic wire attachments as plastic would surely have melted. Replaced the screws, replaced the broilers, plugged it in, replaced against the wall and it fired up.

I removed the original gasket clips with pliers. I installed the new gasket by aligning the clips with the holes around the door and pressed into place. Easy fix!

With the model number I wnet on Parts select site and located the part through the problem finder selection,(GREATFEATURE!) (74% the problem is the Flat Style Oven Igniter) (watched the video on installation and compared my unit with the one in the video). The video explained installation completely and made it very simple. The only critic is that the oven door can be removed completely to make it easier to get in the the oven, opening part way and lifting up the oven door will come completely off. Also the broiler pan drawer can be taken completely out if you would need to get in this way for some reason. Final note: I called the local GE dealer Parts dept- they would have had to order the part anyway and it would have cost three times what Parts Select charged me.Save $$$ great! .

Remove door and disassemble door to gain access to inner glass by removing 8-10 screws and nut driver screws remove and clean outer doors remove heat shield and heat Insulation. Reinstall careful to not get fingerprints on inside of glass and replace quick release hinges and door. Careful of hinges as they are spring loaded

I pulled the oven door off the hinges and took the bolts out of the bottom of the over that were holding the strip on. I then pulled the strip off and replaced it with the new on. I replaced the bolts and then replaced the door on the hinges.

One of the initial two screws for the oven bottom would not budge. Finally used a socket set to loosen it up. Upon taking out the old bottom I turned it over & saw a heat shield attached. I have no idea if you can order a new bottom with a new shield already attached or not, but I had no idea it was there until I took the old part out. Out of the eight screws attaching the shied, four of them were also difficult to loosen up. But in the end the new bottom looks great !

Removed the old glowbar's two screws. Didn't take a mental photo of its proper placcement (or a real one, which would've been smart). Removed screws holding 1) a heat protection plate, and 2) wire harness plate. Installed the new glowbar, hopefully, the right way - with its heat-plate facing the gasline of the over/broiler. Reinstalled the heat protection plate and wire harness plate. Hasn't blown up yet!

1. Removed oven door..
2. Slide out floor plate of over.
3. Removed four screws securing the flame shield.
4. removed the two screws attaching the heating element to the burner.
5. Pulled heating element wires out of rear hole in oven and detached plug.
6. Attached new element and reassembled in reverse order.

Popped off old gasket and some retaining clips stuck but were easily removable. New gasket pops right in, super easy. Fits like new.

In my case it was the lower burner so I unplugged oven and turned gas off.
Then I removed the bottom drawer, and the lower burner cover.
Next unplug Oven Igniter, found where drawer existed.
Removed 2 screws attaching Igniter using nutdriver
Placed new Igniter on
Plug Igniter in and tested oven
Replace burner cover and drawer


This was much easier then what I went through with a repair man the first time around. These Igniter are designed for certain model stoves and are not interchangable with other model stoves!!!

I first took out the screw which held the bottom plate for the oven. then took the screws off the igniter unhooked the wires , took the new igniter hooked up the wires then put the screws back in put the bottom plate back in and turned the oven on to test it and it worked great.

Found the Model information under the bottom drawer. Googled GE Range and rubber, found this vendor. Amazing, the replacement gasket was exactly as the original. Took the old gasket off with needle nose pliers, there were small metal clamps that had to be pinched together. Once the old gasket was off, the new one practically installed itself. Woman Power!

Baking is MUCH better now!

Just slide in the new knob

I remove the old thermostat and realized right away it was burned, the replacement was very easy to clip on