XB258RM1SS General Electric Cooktop - Instructions

Pulled the oven out of it's location. Disconnected the power cord from the Electrical Outlet. Removed the Protective back plate (from the rear of the oven) which covers the wiring. Disconnected the two leads that connect the Baking Element. Went to the front of the Oven, opened the oven door, removed the two screws with a socket wrench (you can use a screw driver as well), at this point you can replace the element with the new one and secure with the two screws. I then went back to the rear of the oven and reconnected the two wires back onto the new heating element and replaced the wiring protective back plate. Reconnected the power cord to the electrical outlet and turned on the oven to see if the element heats up. AND IT DID. Moved oven back into it's original location and I was done. This took 16 minutes to do and saved me a nice amount of money. I could have had a service person show up and do this work which would have cost me $189.00 (Parts & Labor) to have done and all I spent , by ordering the part from PARTSELECT.COM, was just under $50.00.

Remove upper rear cover (4 hex screws), then I removed the 4 phillips screws that mount the control panel, I memorized the wire positions (easy since they are color coded) unplug the wires and remove the old control panel. The face plate of the control panel did not come off easily and the adhesive pulled off some of the white paint, leaving an unsightly clear edge. So I used white-out, and painted the areas where the finish had pulled off. It worked beautifully, and the color match is perfect. Then I reapplied the face plate, put the new control panel in position, connected wires, screwed screws, repositioned rear cover, screwed screws, plugged it in and it was done. The longest pare of the job was waiting for the white-out to dry.

I (1) pulled the oven away from the wall to get the back of it exposed. Then I (2) pulled the plug out to make sure there was no electrical current. Then I (3) opened the oven door and tugged on the broken heating element to see how tightly it was connected in the back of the oven. Next I (4) went to the back again and slid the silver-colored metal cover that protected the exposed electrical wiring for the oven. I (5) observed that there were a number of different colored wires held in place by screws as well as some wires that disappeared into the insulation, so I (6) went back to the front of the oven and pushed the broken heating element backward to determine if its wiring would become visible from the back of the stove. I (7) observed from teh back that it did. From that point, I (8) pulled the heating element's wiring connections through the insulation until it was visible. The I (9) unscrewed the two nuts connecting the heating element to the oven's wiring. Then I (10) went back to the front and pulled the broken heating element out and (11)inserted the new heating element. Then I (12) returned to the back and connected the loose wires to the heating element and (13) pushed the heating element forward into the oven. I (14) went around to the front to ensure the heating element was positioned the same way in the oven as the old one was, then in the back (15) replaced the metal shield over the wiring and isulation, (16) plugged the oven back in and (17) turned the oven baking setting on to a high temperature to test the new element (i.e., that it was connected correctly and actually worked). I (18) observed that the oven began heating up quickly to the proper temperature, and I was greateful the new bake element worked as good the original part. I then (19) turned the oven off and pushed it all the way back to its place against the wall.

The repair job was not effortless (about 15-20 minutes) but was simple enough NOT to require an electrician. The most difficult part was physically sliding the stove out and back into its tight place between our counters.

Replacing the sensor was a snap and not as involved as I feared. 1) open the oven door; 2) remove the one hex screw holding the old sensor to the back of the oven; 3) gently pull the sensor, pulling the wiring out to access the plastic wire connector (carefully guide the plastic wire connector through the opening); 4) loop a small piece of wire (stiff enough to form a hook) around the base of the wire connector to keep the wire from falling into the back wall of the oven; 5) unclip the connector and remove the bad sensor; 6) clip in the new sensor; 7) remove your catch wire; 8) thread the wiring back through the opening; 9)position the new sensor and secure with the hex screw; and 10) turn on the oven and prove to your wife you do know what you are doing!

Ordered window pack from PartSelect then removed oven door from front of stove, then removed back of door and silver backing and glass pack. Dropped new glass into place. Replaced all backing,put door back onto stove. Tip. When removing screw keep them separated from each other as not to get mixed up when putting everything together. Good Luck, PartSelect has all the parts you need, this my second getting a part from them.

I order the part online on the 23rd of February 09 in the afternoon it was delivered on the 24th to the address in Florida and then fedex to me in Cayman. So I got it on the 2nd of March went home that evening after work got my pliers unpluged the stove removed the two screws that holds the element in place. I also removed the metal from the back of the unit first to make sure I was doing it right. I then pulled the element at the back and disconnected the two wires replacing it with the new one. I then replaced the back and screws and pluged it in turned on the oven waited and when I saw it turn red I felt so good. I said thank you Lord and then baked a cake. The whole installation took about 20 mins.
Thanks again.
P.S. please look into offering shipping orders overseas.

Unplugged the appliance for safety. Removed two 1/4" screws that held the assembly in place. Carefully removed the wire guard that retains the glass shield. Unscrewed old light bulb and replaced with new part. Reversed the steps after cleaning glass cover.

I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appliance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance

The draw pictorial was not very clear. I orderd the two rear supports for the over storage draw, not sure they were correct.
They were correct and the design had been upgraded to add strength to the support.
The draw is now operational..better then ever.

My oven bake element melted one day. I had my husband replace it and for a short while it worked. Then it quit but then our broil element would not shut off. My husband said that it might be the heat sensor. We checked here in town and that element cost over $80. Since we have order from Parts Select before we decide to do so again. When we received the heat sensor my husband replaced it taking out the original heat sensor. This did not work as the broil element still would not turn off. I call the repair man and I found out that the initial melt down of the bake element also effected the main circut board that had to e replaced.

Removed the broken socket, and replaced with new one.

Removed back panel screws, removed back panel, removed screws of the control board, remove control board, heated glue and tore off plastic face plate, placed face plate on new control board, installed new control board, moved wires from old control board to new control board, test out oven, reinstalled back panel

First turned off power at breaker box. Pulled stove out to remove the half dozen hex screws on the back panel.(some nuts were stripped)Removed old oven sensor inside oven held by one hex screw and replaced it with the new part. Oven works great now! Repair job was done by husband Mike.

Tried GE onoine parts department first and ordered the wrong part, then tried the customer hotline and they referred me to the right part but didn't explain that the design had been modified (the drawings had not been updated). I found an explanation on Part Select AND the parts were cheaper. Part Select sent the part, the necessary screw, and an appropriate instruction manual. Each support took less than a minute to screw in with a socket wrench.

Some of the original TO-9 switches were fused by the heat. I made them functional again with a cutter on a rotary tool, but to make the repair properly, I ordered the new control unit and the faceplate graphics. Note the guide tabs at the bottom and right edges when replacing the graphics. Don't plan on reusing your old graphics (unless you are a wizard at removing the very strong adhesive).
To gain access to the part, remove the 2 screws (part 715) in the bottom of the control assembly with a stubby screwdriver. Using a nut driver, remove the two screws (part 1000) on the back at the corners, being careful not to drop them behind the oven. Pull out at the bottom, then move the whole unit toward you. Note the position of the wires. A digital photo can help here. Remove the wiring and 4 screws holding the clear plastic TO-9. Put the screws in the new unit in the same holes and rewire. Put the assembly in place top-first and align the screw holes. Finding the same thread placement for the lower screws can be tricky, so start them gently.