FFEC2605LS1 Frigidaire Cooktop - Instructions

LOOKED FOR MODEL# OF STOVE.. ENTERED MODEL # IN PARTS.COM SEARCH.
MATCHED COIL AND DRIP PANS
ITEM NUMBERS AND SIZE.
PLACED ORDER.
ARRIVED FOLLOWING WEEK WELL PACKED.
PULLED OUT OLD COILS/DRIP PANS.
PLACE *NEW* DRIP PANS IN FIRST. THEN PUSH IN *NEW* COILS
**NO PAID INVOICE WAS RECEIVED**
Wed4/24/2024

Just placed the chrome bowl trays in place and was good to go. They look very nice.

I started to smell burning electrical smell from the burner area and heard a "buzzing" sound from the burner control while the burner was on. Pulled the element and noticed that the wire coil end of the left element was burned and pitted from arcing.
Pulled the range top up, used a phillips screwdriver to remove the terminal block clip from the range top. Upon inspecting the burner terminal block, I saw the brass wiper was missing from one side of the left slot, and there was considerable heat damage around the slot opening.
The terminal block being replaced was already replaced earlier for the same problem. The appliance repair folks recommended that we use light cookware on the burner. Instead, ensure both element leads are fully inserted into the terminal block.
I turned the power off at the breaker, used a utility knife to carefully slit the heat shrink tubing on the existing replacement, unscrewed the ceramic wirenuts, removed the old block, straightened out the range wires, slid the new heatshrink over the range wires, then twisted the new terminal block wires to the range wires. Screwed on the ceramic wirenuts, slid the heatshrink tubing over the wirenuts, and used matches to shrink it tight.
The package contains an instruction sheet with simple instructions.
Once the new terminal block was installed and the element terminals were fully seated, the "buzzing" from the burner control disappeared.

The repair was really easy. All I did was unplug the surface element and plug in the new one.

Pulled stove out and unplugged it.
Used a Phillips screwdriver to take the back cover off of the control panel.
Each of the 7 lights connects to the red Indicator Light Lens via a slide clamp which is attached to the front of the light assembly. All you have to do is slide the lens into the hole from the outside of the control panel. Then with your other hand, pust the light assembly into the back of the lens and slide it to lock it in place. Repeat with the others.
Replace back cover.
Plug stove back in and slide back into place.
There are you tube videos out there to help you.

Removed heating elements and replaced drip pans. And by the way, this is the only 'pans' I could find to fit. Thanks.

Simple Just plugged it in !

First you must disconnect power by throwing the circuit breaker off.You need to pull knobs from cook top. check underside to see if it is mounted to counter top, mine was not. Then raise the cook top and support bottom with 2x2's. Mine had three main screws in front, one on the sides and two in the back. The other thing you need to do is loosen the metal plates that have two screws on each plate. Three plates in front, two on each side and three in back. Once these are loosen, you can lift the stove top up to reveal the indicator lights. I found it was easier to support the top with a pan or something while working on it. Replace your indicator light and put everything back together.. It really wasn't to bad.

The left rear (small burner) was the first to start intermittently having only off or high heat. Then the left front (large burner) started (probably sticking contacts). Since two had gone bad, I ordered 4 new ones to make a complete repair. I was pleasantly surprised to discover that the large burner controllers had been "beefed up" to a heavier duty controller. The changeout was merely removing wires and verifying terminals on the new controllers. It was so easy that "even a caveman could do it"

I just took the old ones out and replaced them with the new ones. It took less than 5 minutes.

I couldn't explain how to do the job any better than your instructional video does. As long as you follow the video instructions you should have no problems.

I unplugged the damaged element and plugged in the new one. It took less trhan 30 seconds and the unit worked just fine.

Pretty easy installation; you lift the top plate up and snip the wires maybe four inches away from the burner. Leave more wire than you think you need; once you get into it you'll realize you need more wire length than you think.

Then strip the remaining ends, twist them together with the provided caps, and use the heat shrink to hold it together. Remove the old terminal, replace it with the new ones, and you're good to go!

Remember to check that the wires are tight in the cap before heat shrinking, though. I had to get more shrink wrap in order to finish.

Actually, a child of average intelligence can do this. Just pull the surface elements, take the old drip bowls, install the new ones and re-install the surface elements, including the brand new one I received.

Got the shipment. Took it out of the package. Set it into the stove top. Tested to see if it worked, It did. Turned it off and took my dog for a walk.
Great company. Makes it easy for me order.