14384067 Kenmore Air Conditioner - Instructions

Pulled the old lint filter out and threw it in the trash. Slid the new filter in and it was all done. Doesn't take a genius to do this repair. My old dryer a sears/kenmore is over 40 years old and the lint filter fit perfect. (MF part number w10874409)

Removed old screen. Placed in new screen.

It fit like a glove. Just put it right in.

Unplugged power cord. Removed rear panel screws and panel . Removed the two wires connected to part. Removed two screws holding part and replaced all components in reverse order.

Removed front of dryer. Located thermal fuse, replaced blown thermal fuse. Reassembled.

I looked up the problem on Utube and saw a demo on what three items to check with a volt meter for continuity or resistence on either the start button, the door switch, or the thermal fuse. The first two checked out OK but the fuse was dead, no resistance or ohmns on the voltmeter. I had trouble locating it on my dryer as the Utube site said to pull the rear cabinet off when actually it was under the front panel below the dryer door sitting in an awkward position right on top of the dryer motor. I used 2 flat head screwdrivers to pry open the latches over the panel door that are located about 4 inches in from either end and then used a small right angle screwdriver with a flash light propped against the heating elements (after I removed the cover plate) to see with and to give me more room to loosen just two tiny screws that attached the fuse to the motor. Voila! It works better than before.

Followed the video.

Unplug from electric ? outlet. Set the meter to ohm setting, check part ,no reading. Remove old part ,check new part with meter ,get a reading of 11 or more mA. Install new part and blower cover done.

This was so easy to take apart and put back together following the repair video. I figure my family saved $200.00 by doing it myself.

replace the burnt fuse.

The dryer was spinning, but the display said "sensing" for the whole cycle, and there was no heat. We took off the front of the dryer and the fuse was below the drum. This was an easy swap out, but it didn't fix the dryer. Then we ordered a thermistor, which also was an easy swap out but didn't fix the dryer. Last, we bought an ohm meter and tested the heating element, and discovered it did not have continuity. I had already ordered the heating element, as that was the next item to check on the list. The element was much harder to replace, because you have to take off the drum.

After shutting off the gas supply and unplugging the electrical cord, I used a flat blade screwdriver to loosen the exhaust vent clamp and remove the vent tube from the outlet. Using a 1/4-inch nut driver I removed the screw holding the plate covering the electrical lead connection to the power supply, then I pulled the plate back and disengaged the tab from the cutout in the back of the dryer body to remove it. I then removed the eight screws holding the back cover of the dryer in place, then removed the cover. The thermal fuse is located near the bottom of the dryer at the back, just above the exhaust vent. I loosened the two screws holding it in place using the 1/4-inch nut driver, then I removed the two electrical leads from the fuse. I inserted the new thermal fuse and screwed it into place, then reinstalled the electrical leads. I then reinstalled the back cover, the power-cord cover, and the vent hose. I turned the gas supply back on and plugged the electrical cord back in.

I read the instructions on the internet. It told me what to trouble shoot first. The switch on the door then the thermo fuse and after that the thermostat. The off on switch on the door checked ok but the thermo fuse didn't when I followed the instructions on the internet. The thermostat did check ok. When I installed the new thermo fuse the dryer started like always before. I was pretty proud of myself for saving a hundred dollars or more. Thank you for the hlpful instructions.Larry

I followed the advice and purchased a thermal fuse in advance. The advice forgot to mention a broken belt switch. Since the belt was broken I had no way of knowing how it was wrapped around the tensioner. Their diagrams are reversed from the Whirlpools. I called a local parts supplier, who turned out to be a repairman working out of his van. I met him in a restaurant parking lot and was on my way in minutes. The dryer was running within a hour. Great web site George - Pittsburgh

took out the old filter and put in the new lint filter...it was a snug fit.