Models > GCWM1069CD8

GCWM1069CD8 (ABWEELC) LG Washer

Jump to:

Find Part by Name

Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump".

Diagrams for GCWM1069CD8

Viewing 3 of 3
Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump".
This magnetic door plunger is a genuine replacement component designed to keep the washing machine door slightly ajar when not in use. By allowing air circulation, it helps the inner door and tub seal...
In Stock
Order now and your part arrives by Mar 22
In Stock
Order now and your part arrives by Mar 22
This hose has bellows to allow for flexibility during the wash and spin cycles.
In Stock
Order now and your part arrives by Mar 22
This rubber tub seal fits between the front and rear halves of the washing machine’s outer tub to prevent water leaks. It helps maintain proper washing performance and may need replacement if you noti...
In Stock
Order now and your part arrives by Mar 22
This tub bearing is for washers. Tub bearing supports the spin basket shaft at the tub. Unplug the washer and shut off the water supply before installing this part. Wear work gloves to protect your hands.
In Stock
Order now and your part arrives by Mar 22
Special Order
Tub bearing. This part is very difficult to install. The manufacturer recommends replacing the complete rear tub and bearing assembly.
Special Order
In Stock
Order now and your part arrives by Mar 22
$20.95
The locking pin is used to hold the shock absorber on the washer. There is a pin used at the bottom and top of the shock absorber. Sold individually.
Special Order
The door boot seal clamp, also referred to as an outer door gasket clamp, holds the door boot in place in a front-loading washer. If your washer is leaking from the door and there are no signs of dama...
In Stock
Order now and your part arrives by Mar 22
Special Order
$14.65
In Stock
Order now and your part arrives by Mar 22

Questions and Answers

Be the first to ask our experts a question about this part!

Common Problems and Symptoms for GCWM1069CD8

Viewing 10 of 10
Leaking
Fixed by these parts
Fixing Fixing Fixing
How to fix it
Lid or door won’t close
Fixed by these parts
Fixing Fixing
How to fix it
Locking Issues
Fixed by these parts
Fixing Fixing
How to fix it
Will not drain
Fixed by these parts
Fixing Fixing Fixing
How to fix it
Spinning Issues
Fixed by these parts
Fixing Fixing Fixing
How to fix it
Noisy and Marks Left on Clothes
Fixed by these parts
Fixing Fixing Fixing
How to fix it
Water Filling Issues
Fixed by these parts
Fixing Fixing Fixing
How to fix it
Burning smell
Fixed by these parts
Fixing Fixing
How to fix it
Will Not Start
Fixed by these parts
Fixing Fixing
How to fix it
Draining Issues
Fixed by these parts
Fixing
How to fix it
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Customer:
Omnitech from Warrenville, IL
Parts Used:
AGM73610701
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Door would not close
There is a magnet at the bottom of the door which allows the door to be held ajar when the washer is not in use to allow the tub and gaskets to dry. A tab on the plastic housing which retains the magnet broke which allowed the housing to pull free of the door and stick itself to the machine preventing the door to close. Easy fix to replac e the magnet was $18. Instructions were included in the box. Part number on the drawing was A165. PS3618292 Magnetic Door Plunger
157 of 178 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Customer:
Leslie from STOWE, VT
Parts Used:
4738ER1002A
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
leaking tub-to-pump drain hose
Pull washer away from wall. Unplug cord and remove drain hose from receptacle. Remove 4 screws holding panel to rear of washer. Squeeze and slide back hose clamps on each end of drain hose and loosen center clamp with screwdriver. Remove old hose. Reinstall new hose in reverse order using existing clamps. Re-install back panel.
51 of 71 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Customer:
Cherie from PHOENIX, AZ
Parts Used:
MAP61913708, MAP61913707, 4036ER4001B, 4036ER2004A
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
More than 2 hours
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Dry bearing noise, rough bearing, very loud in spin cycle
I went online and looked at the different parts companies for this brand of washer. This is an LG Tromm steam washer. I am pretty mechanically inclined so I watched videos on this machine which you can also find on line and U-Tube and took down some notes that I felt relevant for the disassembly and the repair. I looked at the break down parts schematics and ordered all the parts I felt I needed for this machine. The parts I ordered were the tub hub seal and the inner and outer bearings that go on the spindle shaft which is connected to a piece they call the spider that connects to the inner tub. I also ordered the outer tub o-ring where the outer tub splits in half. Note that I mentioned the spider and that they have a tendency to corrode bad, but you cannot see it until it is disassembled, the parts I ordered are reasonable, the spider can cost upwards of a hundred plus dollars so make sure you evaluate the cost of parts to the age of your machine and to the cost of a new one. Well on my front load washer when I finally took it apart and I felt I got lucky with just the two spindle hub bearings and the seal and the outer tube seal. After looking at the videos and taking some notes, written and mental, I started the disassembly of the washer. First " unplug the power to the washer". the next step is to shut off your two water supplies to the washer and disconnect the hot and cold water lines, note that I disconnected the lines at the washer just for the convenience of not having those lines hanging off the machine and out of your way. another note is that you will want an area with some space so you can keep everything organized and give yourself some room to work. Once you have your machine moved to a open space, start by removing the top of the machine. there are two screws, 4 total in the back of the cover that are removed with a plastic bracket on each side, these are Phillips head or cross type screws. once removed, take the top and shift it back about 1 to 1.5 inches, you then can lift the top off and out of the way. The next step is to remove the front control panel by starting with the wire connectors that go into the control panel. Each connecter is different so there is no mix up. next is to remove your soap dispenser tray, on top of the tray about in the center towards the back is a spot that you gently push down on and this will release the tray for removal and move it out of the way. There are two Phillip screws on each side where you removed the tray that need to be removed to be able to remove the dispenser section out of the way. there are hoses connected to the dispenser but once lifted up an out you can lay the dispenser with the hoses connected over towards the back. There is a large rubberized hose connection that needs to be removed which has a clamp on it that you need to loosen up to take loose the connection. back to the front control panel there is one more screw on the back side on the right side looking at the front that must be removed then the front control panel assembly can be removed. there are some plastic clips on the control panels back side that need undone, gently and be careful not to force these clips but slightly lift up on the rear of the control panel and it should come out of there and then set the control panel aside. There are I believe 6 screws on the top of the front door panel assembly that need removed but before you do that down on the left bottom corner you have a panel door which pops open then is easily removed out of the way. there is a small rubber line with a plug in the end of it which can be pulled a little ways. Get a container that is low profile and pull the plug on the hose and direct it into the container, you may or may not get any water out of it, it is the tub drain. reinstall plug when done and put line back in place. Next take the pump screen out by unscrewing it out counter clockwise like a bolt, it is about 1.5 inches in diameter, you may want to put a small towel down in front of it because you will usually get a little water out of it. Once removed, inspect the plastic screen for any debri and remove it and reinstall the screen. Now down in that same area below the screen there is a Phillips screw which needs to be removed and set aside. Now you go to the rubber boot behind the washer door when the door is open on the outer edge there is a metal wire that goes around the boot to hold it in place with a spring on it. You want to gently take a flat blade screw driver and not to tear the boot, work that wire and spring out of its groove and remove it out of the way. now you may take the rubber boot on the front and take it off its edge and push it back in towards the tub. Now we go back to the six screws at the top of the panel and remove them. at this time you should be able to lean the panel out enough to disconnect the wires to the door latch. Once the door latch has been disconnected, lift up on the front door panel and bring it out
32 of 35 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!