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Manufacturer #: 12112425 /
Manufactured by: Whirlpool /
Fix #: FIX2005284
Manufacturer #: 12112425 |
Manufactured by: Whirlpool |
Fix #: FIX2005284
Disconnect washer from power, water inlet, and drain. Move machine out from installed position. Tilt machine against wall, back panel to wall. Remove belts, inspect the pump and agitator belts for excessive wear, burnishing, cracking. Remove front panel. Advance the water pump manually to confirm it is not stuck or clogged. Advance transmission (large counter weighted object on spindle immediately below tub) shaft to confirm freedom of movement. If it doesn't move, you should consider a new machine. Transmission repair is above DIYer level and too costly on older machine. If transmission shaft turns by hand, replace belts if necessary, and confirm tension to manufactures recommendation by adjusting position of the water pump. Reposition machine and attach water inlet, outlet, and power. Activate machine and confirm operation.
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After finally sending for the belts (I had reached under and pulled the belts a couple of times in the past after reading through your diagnostics) I took off the front panel of my 25 year old Maytag , pulled it out from the wall, tilted it back, propping the front on some stacked lengths of 2x4s to hold it in place. I placed a small flashlight under to illuminate the situation. Even after reading through your customer submitted instructions telling me how easy it was, I was shocked at how easy it was. The screwdriver was only for taking off the front panel. The belt replacement only took 2 minutes or less. Very obvious once one could see the underside of the machine. In the past, I had a repair done on this machine- the water shutoff valve needed to be replaced and it cost me $300 (had belts replaced at same time-now I see I could have done it all myself!!!!!). I only paid $600 for the machine in 1991. I have questioned every repair man I have had in the house-for new appliances, of course- about their recommendations for new washing machines and they have all told me "hold on to that machine for as long as you can". This Machine has chugged through a family of 5 since 1991, and thanks to this site I hope to keep it going for years to come.
2 Maytags, A712, 33-years-old. Deteriorated siphon break flapper. Two days to find, 30 minutes to swap, after watching repair video. Replaced belts as preventive maintenance. Machine two, also replaced belts as preventive maintenance. Think I will replace siphon break on second machine, as preventive maintenance. Easy. Also, hex screws on pump adjustment stripped from factory. Had to use needle nosed vise grips to make belt adjustment. Set machine on two pieces of scrap decking, with piece of 1-1/2" pipe perpendicular as roller. Lift with pry bar and 2"X4". Dick
Slide the washer about two feet from the wall and tilt it back so that the back is resting against the wall. Creating about a foot of clearance in the front. It may be wise to position a support under the front of the washer to prevent it from falling. Push the spring loaded pulley towards the center of the washer and remove the belts. Install the new belts in the same manner. The thinner pump belt has a somewhat loose fit after installation. I used a dry rag to clean the pulleys before installation. Unfortunatly, the new belts did not stop the noise but I'm glad to have new belts on it.
This is my first time that I have work on the washing machine. The washer is 29 years old. After I got the replacement parts from PartSelect, I started to work on it right away. I unplugged the unit front the wall just in case, because I work alone by myself. I just moved the machine forward a little bit so I can tilt it back that way I can get access to the drive belts. I removed 2 belts out. The first one is for the pump and the second one is for inside tube I guess. The installation is reverse from the removal. I did run one light load for testing. the machine ran fine, except it likes to walk around the room. I went on line and look for the remedy for that. Finally, I did check the feet rubber pad and leveled just one of them by increase the length a little bit. Now everything is working better. Thank you for providing me the right parts and some tips that I can learn from it.
I tipped my machine back. And located the belts underneath the machine. I took the old ones off and slipped the new ones on. I then checked the tension and made a little adjustment. And that was it. :)
Very similar to other instructions submitted - extremely easy repair. Unplugged washer; removed front cover; tipped washer on back at about 60 degree angle or so; removed 3 pump mounting screws with nut-driver; disconnected hoses; removed old pump, inserted new pump; Belts were in surprisingly good shape for being almost 35 years old, but replaced both v-belts anyway (1 for pump and 1 for agitator) only because I was already in there and had ordered them just in case. No cracks or excessive wear of belts; attached belts and reinstalled pump with the 3 mounting screws; reconnected hoses; put dryer back level, plugged unit in, filled with water, let run for awhile and inspected for leakage - none; reinstalled front cover.
i had my son who is skilled auto mechanic fix it for me, by replacing new parts ordered. iIt works like a new machine again. He had to clean off old silicone grease that had turned into glue before installing new damper pad kit.
Ordered a set of replacement belts which a came in two days. The worst part of the job was moving the washer out and tilting it back 45 degrees and providing some support to hold it safely while working under it.. Removing the belts was a snap. The motor is tensioned with springs, so the belts can be threaded on and off really easy. Put every thing back where it belongs. Works great again!
Replaced the pump pulley and both drive belts fixed the problem very well. The main noise came form the defected pump pulley and since I am replacing this unit might as well replace both belts.
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