Belt Kit

Disconnect washer from power, water inlet, and drain. Move machine out from installed position. Tilt machine against wall, back panel to wall. Remove belts, inspect the pump and agitator belts for excessive wear, burnishing, cracking. Remove front panel. Advance the water pump manually to confirm it is not stuck or clogged. Advance transmission (large counter weighted object on spindle immediately below tub) shaft to confirm freedom of movement. If it doesn't move, you should consider a new machine. Transmission repair is above DIYer level and too costly on older machine. If transmission shaft turns by hand, replace belts if necessary, and confirm tension to manufactures recommendation by adjusting position of the water pump. Reposition machine and attach water inlet, outlet, and power. Activate machine and confirm operation.

I was very pleased to find FIX.com! Not only did it bring up the parts diagrams for my washer after I entered the model number in the search field, it listed all the parts below the diagram, matching the numbers on the diagram to the appropriate part. This made location of the parts I was looking for extremely easy.
My Maytag washer is 24 years old, and still looks great. Not relishing the idea of the technology driven appliances today, I just wanted to repair my Maytag.
I followed the installation videos provided on the FIX.com website and they were spot-on, making removal and replacement of the motor, belts and drain pump very easy. I will say that after I initially installed the new washer motor, it seemed to hang over the front edge, too far forward, and I was afraid it would interfere with the washer front panel. I actually took the motor out again and rechecked it's attachment to the spring loaded base plate, thinking I had re-installed it incorrectly. However, it seemed to be the only orientation possible, so I re-assembled it and re-installed it in the washer frame. What I discovered was that once the belts were added to the motor pulley, it pulled the motor into the correct position inside the washer frame, so my worries were for nothing. Just follow the video and everything will work out as expected, for an easy repair!
I decided that as long as I was replacing the washer motor, I would also replace the belts and drain pump, essentially refurbishing my trusty Maytag. Now back together and a few loads run, my Maytag is running like new and I am extremely happy! Add if this isn't enough encouragement, I am a 57 year old woman who did my own washer repair, so don't hesitate to do yourself, with the help of FIX.com!

After finally sending for the belts (I had reached under and pulled the belts a couple of times in the past after reading through your diagnostics) I took off the front panel of my 25 year old Maytag , pulled it out from the wall, tilted it back, propping the front on some stacked lengths of 2x4s to hold it in place. I placed a small flashlight under to illuminate the situation. Even after reading through your customer submitted instructions telling me how easy it was, I was shocked at how easy it was. The screwdriver was only for taking off the front panel. The belt replacement only took 2 minutes or less. Very obvious once one could see the underside of the machine. In the past, I had a repair done on this machine- the water shutoff valve needed to be replaced and it cost me $300 (had belts replaced at same time-now I see I could have done it all myself!!!!!). I only paid $600 for the machine in 1991. I have questioned every repair man I have had in the house-for new appliances, of course- about their recommendations for new washing machines and they have all told me "hold on to that machine for as long as you can". This Machine has chugged through a family of 5 since 1991, and thanks to this site I hope to keep it going for years to come.

2 Maytags, A712, 33-years-old. Deteriorated siphon break flapper. Two days to find, 30 minutes to swap, after watching repair video. Replaced belts as preventive maintenance. Machine two, also replaced belts as preventive maintenance. Think I will replace siphon break on second machine, as preventive maintenance. Easy. Also, hex screws on pump adjustment stripped from factory. Had to use needle nosed vise grips to make belt adjustment. Set machine on two pieces of scrap decking, with piece of 1-1/2" pipe perpendicular as roller. Lift with pry bar and 2"X4". Dick

Slide the washer about two feet from the wall and tilt it back so that the back is resting against the wall. Creating about a foot of clearance in the front. It may be wise to position a support under the front of the washer to prevent it from falling. Push the spring loaded pulley towards the center of the washer and remove the belts. Install the new belts in the same manner. The thinner pump belt has a somewhat loose fit after installation. I used a dry rag to clean the pulleys before installation. Unfortunatly, the new belts did not stop the noise but I'm glad to have new belts on it.

i had my son who is skilled auto mechanic fix it for me, by replacing new parts ordered. iIt works like a new machine again. He had to clean off old silicone grease that had turned into glue before installing new damper pad kit.

Ordered a set of replacement belts which a came in two days. The worst part of the job was moving the washer out and tilting it back 45 degrees and providing some support to hold it safely while working under it.. Removing the belts was a snap. The motor is tensioned with springs, so the belts can be threaded on and off really easy. Put every thing back where it belongs. Works great again!

I unplugged the washer then took the front cover off and took the screws holding the lid out. Then i leaned the washer back against the wall and unscrewed the nuts holding the 3 tub hold down springs. These look like 2 seperate nuts, 1 on top and 1 under the washer bottom but it is 1 long body nut so just put the socket on the bottom and back it all the way off. Then Take the drive and pump belts off and put blocking down under the tub pulley and pull the washer back down so the tub is resting on the Blocking, this will raise it up enough to clean the cone hub where the damper pads go. I used a mirror propped up inside the back of the washer to see the back side of the damper area to clean and install the new pads.The kit does not come with the glue needed to put the pads back on so don't forget to order it with the parts. Also the glue does not give a full cure time so i gave it 24 hours to be sure it was set. then i started putting everything back together. The tub springs gave me the most trouble. I was able to get 1 on easy but the other 2 i had to use a clamp on the support to the spring and use a pry bar to hold the spring down far enough to start the nut back on. But after that it all went easy and quick.This site does a great job with all the helpful instructions, pictures and videos.

After removing the front panel I found one damper pad was hanging half out. After lifting the tub with a piece of 4x4 PVC found a second pad totally gone. Suggestions: use the 4x4 lift method works fine if you position the washer so you can remove the rear round access panels and work behind the washer to clean/install the rear pad. A short piece (6" roughly) of 2x4 or similar works good to "prop" the whole tub forward to re-attach the front spring last. Replacing pads and belt didn't cure the tub/basket wobble but then tuning-adjusting the springs tensions nuts individually with (and without) a load in the tub on spin did re-center the tub and equalized-reduced somewhat (40%?) the amount of tub-basket spin balance wobble. Yes the washer is leveled very carefully in both axis. Replaced the original motor tension springs and (worn!) drive belt to hopefully extend the life. DEFINITELY worth the effort to keep my wife happy!!!!

This is my first time that I have work on the washing machine. The washer is 29 years old. After I got the replacement parts from PartSelect, I started to work on it right away. I unplugged the unit front the wall just in case, because I work alone by myself. I just moved the machine forward a little bit so I can tilt it back that way I can get access to the drive belts. I removed 2 belts out. The first one is for the pump and the second one is for inside tube I guess. The installation is reverse from the removal. I did run one light load for testing. the machine ran fine, except it likes to walk around the room. I went on line and look for the remedy for that. Finally, I did check the feet rubber pad and leveled just one of them by increase the length a little bit. Now everything is working better. Thank you for providing me the right parts and some tips that I can learn from it.

I tipped my machine back. And located the belts underneath the machine. I took the old ones off and slipped the new ones on. I then checked the tension and made a little adjustment. And that was it. :)

Very similar to other instructions submitted - extremely easy repair. Unplugged washer; removed front cover; tipped washer on back at about 60 degree angle or so; removed 3 pump mounting screws with nut-driver; disconnected hoses; removed old pump, inserted new pump; Belts were in surprisingly good shape for being almost 35 years old, but replaced both v-belts anyway (1 for pump and 1 for agitator) only because I was already in there and had ordered them just in case. No cracks or excessive wear of belts; attached belts and reinstalled pump with the 3 mounting screws; reconnected hoses; put dryer back level, plugged unit in, filled with water, let run for awhile and inspected for leakage - none; reinstalled front cover.

Replaced the pump pulley and both drive belts fixed the problem very well. The main noise came form the defected pump pulley and since I am replacing this unit might as well replace both belts.

I found the instruction video very helpful important and pretty much went by that. Of course, the special wrench/tool to get the spindle apart after removing the agitator is essential, I'd say. Curiously, this was not available from the site (or I may have missed it?) -- I got it elsewhere. The thing was leaking from the tub seal / central bearing area, so I thought while it was apart I'd replace the seal and the bearing too. However, I was unable to get the bearing sleeve off the transmission -- it was stuck/corroded on very tightly. The chap on the video warned about this and suggested it would come off after treatment with a chisel. I went at it for a while but was afraid of destroying the transmission, so I stopped chiseling, and decided to leave it. I sanded down the top area that had accumulated a bit of rust, checked that the new bearing half on the rubber housing would slip on to the old bearing sleeve, and installed the new bearing with rubber housing in the tub. Another comment I would have is that the bearing kit should come with new rubber seals (in addition to spring washers) for the 3 bolts that hold the outer tub to the sprung frame supports. Quite a bit of cleaning involved / fairly dirty job but not too bad. Very doable for anyone with the slightest interest, a few tools, and a bit of time. I spent $200 on tools and parts and if this gives this 15 year old machine a new lease of life, Kudos to the company (video Steve) and Maytag. (Saved me having to dump the thing down by the creek.) Oh, yes, I'm having to replace the hookup hoses because having removed them the seals no longer seat properly and are leaking at the wall and the machine. I've done 2 washes -- so far so good.

I viewed the video on the web site first!! Best thing the site did! I unscrewed the two screws from the bottom of both sides of the front panel, I puled the front panel out at an angle as the web video said to remove the front panel. I unplugged the electrical cord from the wall socket, I recommend you turn off the hot and cold water connections and remove hoses from the valve side of the connections if needed to help wit tilting the washer. I tilted my washer until it rested on the rear wall of my laundry nook as there is no place big enough to conduct this repair. I grabbed first belt on the two belt pulley at the drain pump end. pulling it to the side to dislodge belt from the pulley while turning the motor pulley. Then repeat this step for the washer drum belt. Note that the washer drum belt is a deep v-belt and the drain pump belt is smaller< as the belts ARE NOT MARKED for which area they go on. to reinstall the belts place large v-belt onto top pulley of motor, place as much belt onto washer drum pulley and keep tension on it as you turn motor pulley to get the belt into the groove. Next comes the drain pump belt Small of the two same procedure, place on motor pulley first and try and pace as much of belt on pump pulley while turning the motor pulley to seat the belt. Once belts are in place check belt tension, On my motor I pulled the motor from the right side to the front of the washer and belts tightened up a bit. With no manual I am not sure if this is suppose to be this way but there does not seem to be a bolt adjustment needed. replaced front panel, reversed from removal, Panel top at an angle making sure metal clips at top are inside the front lip of washer top and push tension and then hold panel tight to top as you swing panel to front of washer and then placing screws back in place and tighten. Easy as pie. 1 Note though , if you have another person available have them hold the washer for you for safety reasons, with washer tilted and nothing holding it up beside it laying on the wall, it may fall on you if underneath it or the back side may slide away from the wall and the washer fall.