Lid Switch Assembly

Unplug machine... Remove two screws from the top of console and pull forward letting it lay in front of you. Locate the lid switch and remove screw that holds it in place. Remove wires one by one and transfer to new lid switch.Make sure switch is oriented the same way. Once complete place new switch in position making sure actuator is located correctly on the bottom side of lid switch. With the lid of the washer down and the lid switch correctly in position you should be able to slide switch toward yourself and her it click as it engages the actuator, if so it's correct. Siid the switch until it clicks maybe just a tad further and tighten. Replace console watching that you don't pinch any other wires and install screws. Test. I purchased both the lid switch and actuator but only installed the lid switch. Washer has been working fine.

1. Pull washing machine out, and tape the black return hose to the side of the machine to prevent grey water from going everywhere. 2. Looking at the washing machine from the front, on the top part of the panel that has the controls, remove the 4 screws that are exposed at the top. 3. Remove panel gently, as to not pull wires out of place. 4. Remove the metal frame on top of the washing machine so you can access the assembly 'easier'. This is done using a socket wrench (small one). 5. With the assembly exposed, unscrew the one 'thick' nut that holds the plastic assembly in place. 6. Start pulling the wires from the old assembly and transfer to the new assembly switch. Keep the wires and locations straight, otherwise, you risk switching up wire locations. 7. With old one removed, place new one in place and screw down with the thick screw. Try to keep it in the 'exact' location front to back, as the bottom of the assembly has a gap where the metal from the lid comes up and goes into the assembly. If it isn't correctly aligned, the washing machine won't run due to lack of 'contact.' 8. Test run the machine, and if it goes past the fill part of the cycle, it is fixed. Reassemble parts accordingly. Watch for old wires when pushing back into its frame and screwing on the face plate.

We could open the lid of the washer and let it drop and slam shut, and the switch would work again and make the washer kick into spin cycle. But after doing this for a few weeks, even that slamming wouldn't do the trick. So, for about $45 and a few minutes time the lid switch assembly from this site was installed, and our 25-year-old machine was back in business. On our model there were just four Phillips head screws to open the control console, and one nut screw to remove to get the old part out. The only part of the job that took a little finesse was getting the switch assembly accurately lined up with the spring-loaded bar that moves when the lid is opened and closed. Watch video and go for it! Very easy.

I watched a video on this site showing someone repairing the lid switch before I even opened up my washer. It was really straight forward so I went ahead and opened my washer up. Even though the video said it was the same model number, mine had only two screws at the top (inside two). Once those were out (phillips head), the top came apart and I gained easy access to the electronics of the washer. I had read that if you bypass the switch and the machine works you know it's the switch. I did that and was confident that I was ordering the right part. Once the part arrived, it took me about five minutes to replace the old unit. Even getting the switch set in the right location was easy. THIS is why I love Maytags..... so easy to do repairs myself. Thanks to the company for a website that helps those of us who need it the most!

First unplugged the machine. Next Easily Removed the screws to the back of the machine to remove the lid switch assembly. Disconnected the electrical(5 color coded) connectors to the lid switch assembly remembering which colors went where. Using the same connectors installed the new lid switch assembly. Tested the new part and worked like a charm. Thank you..

It was simple I just turn the power off and unplug the wires and use and 5/16 nut driver remove one screw then slide the part out that was it simple

Remove 4 screws from control panel. Lower panel, remove screw with nut driver from lid switch assembly. Replace wires on new switch from old. One at a time so they are on the correct post. 7 wires total. Re-install switch with screw and nut driver. Replace control panel with 4 screws and you are done.

1. pulled washer out from the wall and unplugged it. then turned off the water supply. 2. removed top panel at the back of the washer. 3. took pictures of the wire plug placement on the lid switch as it was so I would put everything onto the new one correctly. 4. removed the dial from the front of the washer (the one that controls the wash cycle.) 4a) to do this, I pried the cover off the dial with a flat head screwdriver, removed the flat holder that secures the spring and dial, removed the bolts holding the wash cycle controller from the front and pulled the box from behind and set it aside away from the lid switch. 5. removed the fuse that had blown and then unscrewed the fuse assembly from the lid switch. 6. unplugged all the wires from the defective lid switch. 7. unscrewed the lid switch from the body of the washer. 8. replaced it with the new lid switch assembly, taking care to ensure that the metal tongue that rests in the underside of the lid switch was in the correct place. the lid switch assembly has a plastic base that has tabs to be tucked into places on the washer body and then should be pushed forward (towards the front of the washer) once you have the metal tongue in place so that the lid can move that little nub that tells it when the washer is closed. 9. replaced the bolt that holds the lid assembly in place, again being sure to push it forward so that it is secured correctly. 10. plugged in all the wires, following my pictures. 11. reattached the fuse assembly to the lid switch. 12. replaced the fuse with a new one (4 amp, 250 watt) 13. replaced the cover on the back of the washer. 14. pushed it back into place and plugged it in and turned the water on again. 15. ran a load of wash and it worked perfectly! thank you !

I unplugged the machine before removing the control panel from the top of the machine. I laid it down on the top. I then unscrewed the old switch from the washer. I unplugged the multi-colored jacked wires from the old micro switch in sections and reapplied them identically to the new switch. I then placed the switch on the right back of the washer where the old one was and secured it in the washer with the screw making sure that it was placed correctly to activate the lid. You have to plug the washer in to test that you have it screwed correctly as there is an oblong slot in which the securing switch goes. Once you are sure it is connecting properly, tighten well.

My washer would not start filling with water, regardless of the timer switch position. I initially disconnected the inlet water valve thinking that was the issue, and nearly ordered a new one when my multimeter showed an infinity reading across the valve (had the resistance scale set at 200 ohms instead of 2000, whoops). Fortunately I switched to the 2000 scale and got a reading of 850 ohms across the valve, so I knew it was still good. I then opened the control panel, checked the fuse on the lid switch assembly and saw it was blown. Ordered a new assembly and it arrived within a few days. Saw on a repair video elsewhere in the meantime that it's a good idea to mark the location of the old switch assembly before you remove it by scratching the surrounding plastic since it will need to be pressed firmly against the lid switch, so it needs to be screwed down in the same place for it to work properly. (having avideo that illustrates this, and the testing of the various lid switch assembly components would be useful, in my opinion). Otherwise, very helpful site with good information and quick delivery for the amateur do-it-yourselfer. Thanks for helping me save money!