Washing Machine Drain Pump

Your Youtube video describes the repair perfectly. I'll add: Be careful when removing and placing the control panel on top of the Washer. Once removed, my panel had a wire harness with a zip tied. I cut the zip tie to allow enough slack to lay the panel on top of the washer. No need to disconnect any wires (I put a new zip tie on upon reassembly.) Be careful when removing the retention ring around the Rubber Boot, takes a little finesse, but not too difficult, Don't use a sharp object as you don't want to cut the boot. Make sure the boot is properly seated and the retention ring is securely in place upon reassembly. When removing the old pump my model has the pump held in place with 2x screws (easy to get at from the front) and also slides onto a plastic foot that has a "tab" that needs to be depressed to slide the motor out. You can't see the foot or tab from the front of the washer, as its hidden behind the pump, but fish around with your hand and you'll feel the tab..hold it down and the pump will slide towards the back of the Washer. Thanks, $60 bucks and couple hours was way better than a new $700 Washer.

I followed the repair video on your site and had it done in no time at all. Excellent video for novice like me.

I reviewed the video which showed everything coming apart and back together with no problems in about 15 minutes. The first problem involved an inability to use the drain hose due to it being plugged up. Most of the water remaining in the machine was evacuated using a Shop Vac. The top came off easily with the removal of the two tabs on the back of the washer and sliding the top back. Getting the control panel off was a bit tricky because the several red tabs had to be held down pretty much together. The soap dish holding plate had to be removed and the panel eventually came free and was laid up on top of the machine. The washer door boot was removed by taking off the wire retainer during which the small spring holding together broke as it was rusted out. The drain panel was removed and the front panel was tilted out far enough to reach in and disconnect the door switch wire bundle which has a tab on it. The front panel was then lifted up off the three tabs it was on and set aside. The drain pump and motor assembly were removed by moving back the several clamps with pliers. The assembly is held steady by a bracket which the assembly has to slide out from. By twisting and turning the assembly will come far enough out to disconnect the two wires to the motor, one of which was black and the other brown. Remember which is connected to what terminal. The small drain line was removed and found to be plugged with some hard material which had to be hammered to loosen it up for even a coat hanger to be inserted. That hose had no clamp on it however when I reinstalled it I put one on. The motor housing was held to the assembly by a couple of black tabs which broke during removal. The new motor had tabs on it which worked out well. I connected the two motor wires and with some twisting and turning got the unit back in the bracket and proceeded to put things back together again. I found a small spring which I substituted for the rusted one on the door boot. Be sure to reconnect the door switch wiring harness (which I forgot to do). So far, everything works fine with no leaks. I could do the same repair again in much less time as the whole process was a learning one for me. The video I watched was a good start.

Replacing a drain pump for LG3455WH washer/dryer combo.

1.0 Trouble developed:

For awhile about 8 weeks, when I did the laundry (about 5 times a month), I smelled some thing was burning, it wasn’t strong, so I waited mind fully, a few times later before the LG3455WH failed, the burning smell was gone but I heard the noise that sound liked bearing was grinding pretty loud but the washing cycle was working ok. That was my last load before repair. The LG3455WH running abnormally for the load the water seemed was not drained properly then finally the error code “OE” appeared the water was not drained properly and finally the water pump gave up with out draining and no grinding noise. I drained the water out manually, and tried again. The error code “OE” popped up a few more times. That’s it!

2. Time to looked up for troubles and solutions.

I found Steve’s repair video, it helped quite a bid in general. My LG3455WH was a newer model and things are quite different. I bought the new drain pump and replaced the bad pump. For me as an experience PCs technician not washing machines repair man, I managed to replace the drain pump any way! It was not easy at all! It took me about 4 hours. Of course, next time it will be much quicker and easier!

3. Here were the two (2) difficult repair procedures:

3.1 Removing the big hose that connected between the drain pump and the drum. The clamp was not easy to reach at all, the two ends of the clamp were positioned at 9:00 o’clock (parallel to the floor). In order to reach the two ends of the clamp and removed the hose, I had to remove the white bracket from the pump first so I could have more room to reach the two ends of the clamp. Finally I managed to loosen the clamp and remove the hose. Note: When I reinstalled the host back, I made sure that the clamp ends was at 12 o’clock so it will be easy to reach/remove the clamp in the future!

3.2 To reinstall the band clamp back was not easy, it require quite a bit of patient. Again, it was my first time! Just follow Steve/s video carefully, please! I managed to do it any way.

4. CONCLUSION.

It was worth it for DIY like me and the rest of you!

Followed video

Fast and very easy. You can't go wrong with the vedio and fast delivery of the parts ????

Followed the online parts select video to the letter. After putting everything back together the machine was throwing a TE error code. That normally points to the thermistor. As it turned out the thermistor was OK but the plastic connector linking the thermistor to the control board was faulty. Cut out connector, spliced wires straight through - shrink wrapped the splice. Now everything is working fine.

I started ,by taking the screws that hold the top lid on the back , once I did that I popped it up , there were 2 screws on the top edge that hold the front, took those off , I removed the seal boot spring , after that I took the filter cover off along with the screw that holds the the plastic case , then I had to pop that out as well , once I did that there was 2 more screws that held the front cover , those came out too, finally the front cover can be removed right after you unplug the interlock switch. And that is the hard part every thing else is pretty simple because the drain and circulation motors are right there along with plastic case that holds them side by side unplug the hoses , wires take it out , take pictures so you know how everything goes back on and to reinstall just reverse the process.

watched your repair video made it very easy

I just followed the excellent online video. Only change I made was to remove the door lock completely as I could not disconnect the attached wire harness. But all pretty easy.