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Manufacturer #: WP358237 /
Manufactured by: Whirlpool /
Fix #: FIX11741866
Manufacturer #: WP358237 |
Manufactured by: Whirlpool |
Fix #: FIX11741866
well i replaced a lot of parts..but i think it was the the lid switch. but now its brand new..Thanks
Were these instructions helpful?
I watched the videos before I ordered the part and when the order arrived I replaced the parts with no problems. The most time consuming part of the job was cleaning the washer. You will be surprised to find what will accumulate down there after years of service. The order came in in record time so this site gets an A+ for being fast and accurate. No back-orders either. I will surely use for any-other parts I need in the future.
I ordered two new WHIRLPOOL Hinge Assembly's. There were no video's to watch regarding this repair, so it was a slow process figuring out what needed to be removed to access the hinges. The oven has to be completely removed to access thee sides and back, so a second person may be necessary to do this safely. I placed the oven on a workmate platform to make the repair. Removing and replacing the hinges was the easy part. My suggestion....take photos and make notes on what screws go where during the dis-assembly. The repair was a success and the door works as advertised.
Follow the videos and it's easy to do the repair. Spent more time cleaning the appliance than it took to do the repair, (shredded rubber from large washer part of the motor coupling and many years of dust). My only suggestion would be to turn down the front legs (feet) so it's easier to get the cabinet body under the front steel spreader piece of the cabinet frame. Also, breaking off the plastic tabs under the thrust spacer, as suggested in video, will prevent them from getting in the way when you reassemble the parts. First attempt one folded under the thrust spacer and prevented it from seating properly. A socket extension is a must to remove/install agitator bolt.
I remover the top of the agitator by pulling straight up. Then used a 7/16 socket, extension, and ratchet to remove the bolt that held the agitator in place. Then pulled the complete assembly out of the washer. Separated the upper and lower sections, and cleaned all parts. then installed the new parts, and reassembled the agitator. Then reinstalled the agitator in the washer, and installed the new retaining bolt. Snapped the top back on the agitator, and the job was finished. The most time was spent on cleaning up the agitator and drum, as this washer is 8 years old. Appliance grease is to be used between the upper and lower parts, this also Should be included in the repair kit.
Removed fabric softener cover, inner cover and removed screw and washer. Replaced cogs, changed the inner seal ring and changed out screw and washer. Put it all back together and done. This is the 2nd time I've had to replace cogs since I've had the washer.
Removed agitator bolt pulled apart agitator and replaced cogs
I watched the available video and then it was easy-peasy!
We watched the video and kept the instructions close by. We did not have any problems with doing everything that the video showed and once it was all back together, it ran like it did in the past. Everything working good at this time.
Slow gear case leak was at the input shaft seal. I followed the gear case video instructions which are quite good. However the video says you can buy the needed spanner for the tub nut here on this site. I sure couldn't find it and had to order from elsewhere. In this case a TB123A fit well. Upon testing I had a noise when the pump was running. I discovered that I missed aligning one pump leg to the recess. After I released the pump clamps, and slightly repositioned and re-clamped it was fine. The upper agitator was replaced due to slight wear on the internal teeth. The original agitator bolt's intrinsic rubber seal (bolt, washer/seal all one piece) was worn so I replaced that too.
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