Surface Burner Terminal Block Kit

First I unplugged the oven and removed old Burner & Burner Block, Cut wires from the terminal block and taped new wirers to old. Than removed back of oven to access the burner switch I than pulled the old wires & taped new wires through to the back of the oven. I than removed the tape and unplugged the old wires and replaced with the new. Then replaced the back and plugged in the oven and was done.

For the cooktop it was really straightforward. Take the metal screw loose on the receptacle, fish the new wires to the back of the control panel with the old wires, install the new receptacle with a single metal screw, push the wire terminals onto the control, and you're done. The only hard part was putting the new receptacle together. No instructions on how to do it. I tried every way I could imagine. Finally figured out you simply have to push the terminal into the plastic body of the receptacle from the back, VERY firmly. The flat back of the terminal faces the center of the plastic body, while the two curved cylindrical parts face the outside. At some point the whole thing just locks up in there. Be very careful not to break the wire crimp connector off the back of the terminal, it's pretty fragile. You'll have to do some serious looking with a flashlight at the other receptacles to see how the terminals are oriented on the inside of the plastic body. My old one was missing completely, so I had to use one of the others for guidance. A very small screwdriver might help here. I spent a significant amount of time trying to put the stupid thing together. It should come assembled. As for the dryer, it was simply a matter of removing the dryer cord, unscrewing the old terminal block and letting it hang, screwing the new terminal block in place, and transferring the three push-on terminals one at a time to the new block. In my case I had to reterminate the dryer cord wires because one was burned completely loose from the terminal block. Also, if it's a mobile home, the ground strap on this terminal block SHOULD NOT be used. It connects the dryer cabinet to the neutral of the dryer cord, and we don't want to do that. The dryer cord is a four-wire cord and has its own ground conductor.

As shown on video. Breeze. Very easy. I did not tape old and new wires together. Installation video was the best. I got the parts very fast.. Will shop this site for future.

I removed the top back panel of stove, then removed the old surface burner terminal block and installed the new one. Only tool needed was socket set to remove the top back panel. The terminals on each end of the wire could be installed by hand.

Watched the video before attempting hands on.Replacing the parts was very simple but did not fix the problem.After installing the parts, I took a reading from the ends of the two new leads and nothing. I need to order a new switch as soon as I can get the model number from my neighbor.

I did not realize cable needed to be inserted from the fitting end; should describe same in how to video.

Replaced wiring kit to that element with the one purchased. Was able to insert the wires into the left side of the cabinet by pressing the side panel with a screwdriver. This opened a lane for wire insertion. After both ends of wire were properly plugged in I gathered extra wire and wrapped in electrical tape at the rear of the element cavity.

I just want to say thanks to this site for making access to these parts and self repairs. So easy. This was a great experience so self fulfilling and I saved a ton of money. Thank you .

Turn off the power. Removed the burned terminal switch and replace it with the new one. Turn power back on and the stove was good to go. All thanks to the speedly way the site got my parts to me. Thanks