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See part 31 in the diagram
( Grid squares measure 1x1 inch )

Door Interlock Switch Kit

$ 65.39   In Stock
Fix Number: FIX373050
Manufacturer #: 4392027
Manufactured by: Whirlpool

Product Description

This kit contains 2 switches - 15 Amp - 125/250 Volt with 3/16" terminals.

Installation Instructions Provided by Fix customers like you.

Average Repair Rating: 3.9 / 5.0, 3 reviews.
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    • Customer:
      Robin from Grants Pass, OR
    • Parts Used:
      8205529, WP4365565, 4392027
    • Difficulty Level:
      Easy
    • Total Repair Time:
      30 - 60 mins
    • Tools:
      Pliers, Screw drivers
    The microwave of this built-in oven/ microwave combo would stop working depending on how the door switch was held.
    Read Robert of Bainbridge Island WA instructions to troubleshoot and order parts and then carefully followed them with some additional points noted. Started by turning off power at the breaker. There were 4 Phillips screws holding the decorator grill to the unit. 2 on each side. The two closest to the frig next to it were blocked by the freezer door, but my brilliant brother simply opened the door wide and was able to access those screws through the open space between the door and frig. No need to pull the oven out or get at it from the rear. One Phillips screw at the bottom edge of the control panel is removed and the control panel pulled up in its slot and outward. This reveals the connector wires and the "flapper" plastic part that is used to transfer the button pressure to the micro-switch. The flapper has to be removed to access the horizontal micro-switch. We disconnected the control wires from the mother-board to give more visibility. (This might not have been necessary). We used Duct Tape to tape the control board to the unit out of the way, so that we did not stress some thin, fragile looking wires. The flapper switch is removed through moving it to the left to unclip it from the fragile plastic support and it's right side post nub. That revealed the lower horizontal micro-switch. The pliers were used to pull the flat connector off the micro-switch. The original had only one prong. The replacement had two, but it was easily to identify the NO (normally Open) and NC (Normally Closed) connection configuration. The micros switch slipped easily into its location... Like a cassette tape with the white spindle slipping into place. Then the flat electronic connector reattached. Flapper plastic piece put back by sliding it to the right and clipping it back together carefully. This unit has three micro- switches - two vertical for the door and one for the button. Neither the button or the spring needed to be replaced, so I stored them and the spare micro-switch (with their installation instructions) in the top of the unit at the left for later use. Control wires reattached to motherboard, control panel slipped back into place. Single screw reinserted. Grill reattached with the four screws. Power turned on at breaker. Tested heating abilitywith a coffee cup of water. Worked great! Most of the repair time was spent trying to recognize what we were seeing. The task was easy and quick. Thank you for your website, sharing of repair stories and parts! I couldn't get any repairman to even look at it. The salespeople offered to sell me a new $3200 combo. When all it took was a $48 part. I am so relieved and happy.
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    • Customer:
      Robert from Boynton Beach, FL
    • Parts Used:
      4392027
    • Difficulty Level:
      Easy
    • Total Repair Time:
      30 - 60 mins
    • Tools:
      Screw drivers
    Microwave would start, but would not heat.
    I took off the screws on the Control Panel--one on the top and two on the bottom. Since the Control Panel was attached to several wires, I supported it on a box--that I placed on the stove top--so as not to stretch the wires. Here is where I got a little nervous. The next thing I saw was a plastic divider that covered everything behind the Control Panel. Removed the screw (on the left side of the Microwave opening) that was holding the panel. Once this panel was removed I was able to see the plastic housing that held the door switches. I removed the two screws holding the housing in place, and maneuvered it out of the "niche" it was in behind the door frame. Got really nervous here. The switches were tightly housed in the plastic unit.The plastic elements around the switches CAN be manipulated-- TAKE YOUR TIME--allowing you to eventually slide the switch out and disconnect it from the attached wires. When replacing the switches pay attention to where the wire connections are on the old switches so you can do the same with the new switches. In my case, the switches I removed had one post on each, and the new switches had two posts. Not a problem. Just use the same "post" that was used in the old switch. Since I didn't know which switch was bad, I replaced both the top and bottom switches. Once done, I simply backtracked everything I had done and reassembled the unit. And, YES, the Microwave is working again. The task looks more daunting then it really is . Take your time.
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    • Customer:
      robert from Bakersfield, CA
    • Parts Used:
      4392027
    • Difficulty Level:
      Very Easy
    • Total Repair Time:
      Less than 15 mins
    • Tools:
      Screw drivers
    microwave would not start
    used volt ohm meter to find faulty switch.shipped next day, but FEDEX held part for 3 days in bloomington, ca. took 7 days to get part. part worked as expected.
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      Model Compatibility
      This part works with the following models:
      Fix Number: FIX373050
      Manufacturer Part Number: 4392027
      Brand
      Model Number
      Description
      Kenmore
      41515860
      Grill - Gas Grill
      Whirlpool
      4361
      Microwave - MICROWAVE
      Kenmore
      6654433450
      Wall Oven
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      6654433451
      Wall Oven
      Kenmore
      6654433452
      Wall Oven
      Kenmore
      6654493310
      Wall Oven
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      6654493390
      Wall Oven
      Kenmore
      6654493392
      Wall Oven
      Kenmore
      6654493393
      Wall Oven
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