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Manufacturer #: 5303937139 /
Manufactured by: Frigidaire /
Fix #: FIX470317
Manufacturer #: 5303937139 |
Manufactured by: Frigidaire |
Fix #: FIX470317
after watching video and reading the review, whole job was simple
Were these instructions helpful?
1.Leave the stack dryer in place on top of the washer. Good working height.2. Unplug unit.3. Prop top cover open using one or more pillows.4. disconnect electrical harness to front cover.5. Remove 3 screws that secure the front cover to the dryer housing.6. Remove front cover and place front cover on a work bench standing vertical.7. Remove old seals and sand bonding surface and wipe clean for new seal.8. use cement provided and apply a thin "S" pattern around the mating surface for new seals.9. Allow 30 mins. to dry10. Assemble the cover in reverse order.
The upper drum guide and lower drum seal were replaced using instructions from your videos. I recommend replacing both the drum glide and drum seal together; doesn't make sense to replace one and not the other, particularly on older models. I used a Universal Adhesive Cleaner (for removing automotive & RV decal glues; I had some left over from removing decals/glue off our RV) obtained at my local NAPA Auto Parts (Part #4070) which made removing the old parts and glue cleanup much easier. Simple apply sufficient solvent to saturate the felts, allow to stand 15-20 minutes then easily peel off the old felts. I used a 3" diameter wire wheel in my drill to quickly remove any remaining glue residue. There are probably other solvents that could be used in lieu of the Universal Adhesive Cleaner; the key is to use a solvent that will soften the old glue which which makes removing the felts and glue cleanup much easier. Be sure to wear solvent resistant gloves during this phase of the replacement process.
Looked up on the web and found a parts list and a video showing the process of replacement of the drum seals. I ordered on line, received the parts within three days and spent a morning opening up the dryer, removing the old seals and gluing the new ones on, then reassembling the dryer. It works perfectly. What I found in addition was a huge buildup of lint in the blower channel. Removed all that, vacuumed the inside and it's as good as new. NOTE: you don't have to order an extra tube of glue. One comes with the parts. Bruce
I'm one of those guys who doesn't unplug an appliance before working on it. In this case, I should have. My wrist touched the back of the timer control when replacing the sheet metal screw on that side of the front panel, and I felt a sharp tingle that let me know I was part of a live circuit. My quick reaction caused my wrist to graze a sharp edge on the dryer frame. Just a bit of blood lost; only a flesh wound. Anyway, the enclosed instructions were very good, though I did go on line to see the exact location of the metal clips that secure the top of the machine.
After a bit of research, I ordered the upper drum glide and rear bearings as the most likely culprits. I watched the video on this site and the repair went exactly as described. The old upper drum glide had totally fallen apart and I didn't bother to disassemble further to replace the rear bearing. Having the dryer open was a good opportunity to vacuum a decade's worth of lint out of different spots too. I appreciate the fact that I can buy just about any part for this dryer and that this site has produced good instructional videos.
Before I started the repair, I found the dryer nonoperative. The motor would just buzz. Being that the dryer is 19 years old I figured the bearings seized up. I pulled the small back access panel, took off the belt from the tensioner. And tried to turn the motor shaft. It wasnt budging. So, before ordering parts, I took the dryer apart, to make sure the rest of the dryer was ok. With a flat head screw driver, I popped the two clips that hold the top to the front of the dryer. Then I laid the top against the wall(its sorta hinged at the back). Then undid to screws, one on each side, where the front attaches to both sides. Then, undid the wiring to the door closed switch, and cut the ziptie to get the wires out of the way. Then, I just pulled up the front a lil, to get it off the side clips, and laid it flat on the ground to undo the clips at the bottom. The upper drum guide was shot, so i knew i needed another one of those. The drum, came out easy. A quick firm tug of the belt upwards unseated the spindle from the bushing in the back, and the drum came out threw the front of the dryer. The belt was ok, but, being so old I figured i might as well replace it. The motor was down at the bottom. One half circular clip holds the back bearing in place, you pop that from the left hand side. One the back of the blower housing is a plastic slider pieced that snugs up against the front motor bearing. Pull that up and out. The blower wheel is left hand threads,(theres an arrow showing direction for off) so make sure you turn the ratchet the correct way Its either a 7/8 or 22 mm, I just used used a 22 mm(its all i had handy) with a extension(and a pair of plyers to hold the other end of the shaft). Youll have to move the motor backwards while unscrewing the blower wheel because there isnt much room in the housing. Once thats detached(you leave the blower wheel in the housing) I unplugged the motor, and lifted it out. There bearings were seized bad. So i ordered a motor, belt and upper drum guide. While waiting, I cleaned ALL the lint buildup inside the dryer.The parts came within 3 days. First i scrapped off the old upper drum guide from the front piece, and glued the new one in. I also used clothes pin sorta clips to to hold it in place while it dried. I let it dry overnight. The following day, i put the motor back in, getting the shaft inside the blower wheel, and turning the wheel on the shaft while positioning the motor where its suppose to sit. Then tightened up the blower wheel with the 22mm socket. It doesnt need to be super tight. You'll have to hold the other end of the motor shaft while tighting it up with a pair a plyers. Then plugged the plug bck into the motor. Once that was done, i took the old belt off the drum, and put the new one on. Make sure the ribs on the belt are facing the same way as the old one. Then it was pretty straight forward really, put the drum back in(i greased up the spindle that sits inside that bushing/bracket). Seated the spindle in the bushing. Put the front panel back on.in reverse order,laid the top back down and seated it to the clips sticking up from the front panel.Then, got into the access panel, and put the belt back on the motor, and tensioner. then put the access cover back on Then it was done and ready to test. Plugged it back into the wall, hooked the duct work back up, and viola, she runs and purrs like a kitten, good as new!
removed top of dryer by inserting screwdriver under top and lifting up. Unscrewed two screws that were holding front panel with door. Used screwdriver to pop front panel off. Detached two wire that went to thermostat on front panel. removed felt strip on top of door. used screwdriver to initial pry off felt strip. Then removed excess old glue with window scraper. Applied glue, added new felt strip. waited till glue dried. reassembled front panel, screwed front panel on. attached wires. closed the top of dryer and that was it. No more noise. PS: vacuumed the dryer and vent while I waited for glue to dry.
I watched your how to videos and it was that easy. The whole job took less than 15 minutes. After the glue dried I ran a load of clothes and it was like my dryer was brand new again. Follow the videos and you won't go wrong.
I watched the video on the page where I ordered the parts from and it was straight forward on what needed to be done. Only addition was to grease the pylley wheel shaft by sliding it off, cleaning it and reinstall with fresh grease. It all went well and no more noise!!
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