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WTW8040DW4
WTW8040DW4 Whirlpool Washer
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$11.98
This 18 ml bottle of white appliance touch-up paint is used to cover scratches or marks on your appliance. The white touch-up paint can be used on refrigerators, microwaves, ranges, clothes dryers, an...
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$82.21
This lid lock assembly is a safety-critical component found in many top-load washing machines. Positioned beneath the washer lid, it includes both the locking mechanism and the wiring harness needed t...
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This washing machine cleaner includes three time-release tablets designed to remove odor-causing residues, grime, and buildup from high-efficiency and top-load washing machines. The tablets work by cl...
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$99.03
The water inlet valve plays a crucial role in your washing machine’s operation by controlling the flow of hot and cold water into the tub. If the valve is damaged or worn out, you may experience slow ...
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$105.36
Designed specifically for top-load washing machines, this drain pump ensures efficient water removal during the drain cycle by directing it from the washer tub into your home's plumbing system via the...
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$49.29
This clutch slider kit is part of the washer’s transmission system, helping control the agitator’s speed and direction during wash and spin cycles. It includes the clutch band, slider, and lock ring. ...
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Randall
May 13, 2024
My washer locks at the start of my wash cycle but partway through the wash cycle it flashes on/off or powers on/off and displays F5 for a second but then powers on/off continuously until I open the lid. I have unplugged it for 5 mins or so to reset it, but it does the same issue over again. I haven't done any troubleshooting or tested anything with my DMM. What is the common cause for the power on/off cycle with no subcode please?
For model number WTW8040DW4

Hi Randall, thanks for the great question. We would recommend checking the following parts to fix your issue: the Lid Lock Assembly (FIX11722981), the Bezel for the lid lock (FIX12578748) and the Bumper on the lid (FIX12731224). It seems like your washer is not cycling and is giving a F5 error because it is not locking properly to be able to advance to spin. If you need assistance placing an order for these parts, please contact Customer Service. Good luck with your repair!
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Common Problems and Symptoms for WTW8040DW4
Viewing 15 of 15Leaking
Fixed by these parts
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Lid or door won’t close
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Will not agitate
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Spinning Issues
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How to fix it
Will not drain
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How to fix it
Shaking and Moving
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How to fix it
Will Not Start
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How to fix it
Locking Issues
Fixed by these parts
How to fix it
Water Filling Issues
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How to fix it
Noisy and Marks Left on Clothes
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How to fix it
Draining Issues
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How to fix it
No hot or cold water
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Cycle Not Advancing
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Does not dispense fabric softener or detergent
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Spins slowly
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How to fix it
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
- Customer:
- Charles from STARKVILLE, MS
- Parts Used:
- W11393685
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Loud grinding noise when the washer was in use.
1.) disconnect power to your washer. Turn off water supply and disconnect from the washer.
open the washer top and remove plastic cap from the wash plate
2.) using 7/16 socket, remove bolt from the wash plate. If you can't remove it with a socket , I recommend using impact wrench.
3.) remove wash plate ... Read more ( you might need to spray penetrating oil or wd40 inside the bolt hole to loosen it.
Check to make sure the wash plate gear grooves are not worn down, if they are, replace it.
4.) using your Maytag specific spaner nut wrench, remove the spaner nut from the shaft of the gear case. This should be right underneath where the wash plate was. If you can't turn it by hand , use a rubber mallet or hammer to encourage it.
5.) some people remove the wash basket at this point. I don't think it is necessary.
6.) close your washing machine. Tape the top closed to keep it from flying open. Tilt your washer back and prop it up where you have access to the underside of the washing machine.
7) remove motor rotor bolt and pull rotor off of the motor.
8.) disconnect the two wire connectors that supply power to motor. using a socket, remove bolts that are keeping motor attached to the gear case.
9.) Now that the gear case is all the is remaining on the underside, you can remove the 4 bolts that are holding the gear case to the washer. Now try to pull gear case out.
10.) if gearcase will not pull out, lower washer back to upright position. Spray penetrating oil or wd40 around the shaft of the gearcase and allow it to sit for 5-10 minutes. Using a hammer, lightly tap on the shaft of the gearcase and it should now fall out. ( you might have to apply penetrating oil again, or apply more force with the hammer.
11.) reinstall motor to new gearcase. Insert new gear case to the washer. Reinstall bolts and reconnect power supply wires.
12. ReInstall spaner nut inside the washer, reinstall wash plate.
open the washer top and remove plastic cap from the wash plate
2.) using 7/16 socket, remove bolt from the wash plate. If you can't remove it with a socket , I recommend using impact wrench.
3.) remove wash plate ... Read more ( you might need to spray penetrating oil or wd40 inside the bolt hole to loosen it.
Check to make sure the wash plate gear grooves are not worn down, if they are, replace it.
4.) using your Maytag specific spaner nut wrench, remove the spaner nut from the shaft of the gear case. This should be right underneath where the wash plate was. If you can't turn it by hand , use a rubber mallet or hammer to encourage it.
5.) some people remove the wash basket at this point. I don't think it is necessary.
6.) close your washing machine. Tape the top closed to keep it from flying open. Tilt your washer back and prop it up where you have access to the underside of the washing machine.
7) remove motor rotor bolt and pull rotor off of the motor.
8.) disconnect the two wire connectors that supply power to motor. using a socket, remove bolts that are keeping motor attached to the gear case.
9.) Now that the gear case is all the is remaining on the underside, you can remove the 4 bolts that are holding the gear case to the washer. Now try to pull gear case out.
10.) if gearcase will not pull out, lower washer back to upright position. Spray penetrating oil or wd40 around the shaft of the gearcase and allow it to sit for 5-10 minutes. Using a hammer, lightly tap on the shaft of the gearcase and it should now fall out. ( you might have to apply penetrating oil again, or apply more force with the hammer.
11.) reinstall motor to new gearcase. Insert new gear case to the washer. Reinstall bolts and reconnect power supply wires.
12. ReInstall spaner nut inside the washer, reinstall wash plate.
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- Customer:
- Michelle from Richardson, TX
- Parts Used:
- 72017
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Scratches in Surface
This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.
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- Customer:
- Roy from MAYNARDVILLE, TN
- Parts Used:
- W11393685
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Washer making noise on spin cycle
Removed two screws on back of lid to raise top removed tub one bolt and one spanernut pulled tub lowered top reinstalled screws laid washer down to get to bottom of washer unplugged wiring removed four bolts pulled gear box and motor removed motor from gear box installed motor on new gear box reassemble washer
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