7MWTW8500EC2 Whirlpool - Instructions

slipped the new drain hose on and with locking plyers slipped the wire clap in place after three trys

As women, myself and my daughter completed this fairly simple repair. The replacement washer plate was top quality and included the washplate replacement screw. Additionally, we purchased a tube of lock tight to further secure bolt placement. The most difficult part of the repair is to disengage old screw and securely replace with new one. Very pleased with fast delivery Excellent customer service and top quality part.
Thanks

The valve is a 4 solenoid valve, which has Temp. sensor molded into the valve body mixer center outlet. No mention of it in the troubleshooting. it has a 2 pin plug. it was shorted zero ohms.
New one measure open infinity. I also purchased the control module as the troubleshooting said to if solenoid checked good which all 4 read 1310 ohms , i purchased and replaced control module, no help. the guide is outdated for these new high tech washers. If this happens again. I will just unplug the 2 pin plug on bottom of valve assembly. By the way the 2 clips that hold the washer top in place are very difficult to remove and re install.

Removed two screws on back of lid to raise top removed tub one bolt and one spanernut pulled tub lowered top reinstalled screws laid washer down to get to bottom of washer unplugged wiring removed four bolts pulled gear box and motor removed motor from gear box installed motor on new gear box reassemble washer

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

If you take the back off the machine, it's a lot easier to detach the control bridge. Saved a lot of time and did not need to stretch your fingers

Removed the old hoses and screwed on the new hoses.

DIY'er working on a Maytag Centennial type washing machine should be aware that replacing a a transmission or agitator due to worn out splines is only half a job done well. I originally replaced my transmission due to worn splines, only to discover later that the worn agitator splines caused the new transmission splines to wear out at an accelerated rate. Transmission and Agitator should be replaced together, along with a new Agitator mounting bolt. There are plenty of video's online of how to do this repair so I won't get into that here. Just wanted to drop the above sage advice. Transmissions for these washers aren't cheap.

Washer would start cycle and return a CL error. No water would flow into the tub. Researched problem and probable cause. Ordered new water inlet valve. Once received, disconnected water hoses and electric plug and removed rear upper access panel (5 screws). Used thin putty knife under sides of front control panel to disengage spring clips. Once access to the faulty valve was attained, removed electrical harness and valve mounting screws. Installation of new valve was reverse process. Figuring out how to raise the front panel for access to the valve was most difficult. Found a YouTube video showing how; it was easy from there. Entire replacement took about 30 mins max.

I watched a you tube video of how to perform the repair. First I unplugged the washing machine before beginning the repair. Turned the water valve off and then disconnected the water line from the back of the washing machine with pliers.I used the nut driver to remove the screws/nut type heads from the metal cover from the back of washing machine .This gives you access to slide the top of the washing machine forward.The top of the washing machine has to be moved forward to lift the top upward. Tape can be used to prevent the washing machine lid from opening and possibly getting damaged. I just held onto the lid and rested it against my basement wall. The control panel has two bent shaped metal brackets that must be pushed slightly forward. Then the control panel can be removed to begin removing the control board. There are 6-7 bolt head screws to remove from the backside of the control panel. This permits the removal of the control board and unplug the wire from the control board. Then you just reverse the process to put everything back together. I recommend placing the various screws from the control board and the screws from the back of the machine that holds the metal cover separated. This was the first time I attempted a repair to a washing machine and went very well . I hope this helps you out on this type of repairs .

Replaced each hose. Did discover that either hose can be used for hot or cold water lines. No longer required to label hot and cold replacement hoses.

Popped the cap , used a socket to unscrew the bolt (it was stripped so ended up having to cut off bolt) Took off old impellar and replaced, installed a new bolt, replaced Cap and it was fixed.

Turn water off at the inlet valve of hose you are replacing. Disconnect inlet hose the washer and let water drain out in a bucket. Then remove old hose. Replace new hose to inlet valve then washer . Use pliers to tighten both ends. Turn on water to check leaks at both ends of hose.

I was sent the wrong part , when I questioned them said they did not have it so was directed to Whirlpool and they are making it and I might get it in May

At first I had to position the washer so I could get access.. after having it positioned, I figured it out. Getting the clamp fastened, I was done.