GXSF40H02 General Electric Water Softener - Instructions

water softener was leaking due to a broken clip. turned off water and drained the pipes. some how managed to remove the broken clip from the inlet side. i than was able to remove the good clip from the outlet side, without breaking it. i replaced the washer on the leaking side, cleaned and resealed all the joints. finally i reattached the manifold to the water softener. no leaks so far. next time i will discarge the unit before repair.

Very fast and easy.
Thank you for the quick shipping.
Wife very happy the water softener was back in action in 2 days.

I removed three screws that held the motor assembly in and unhooked two wires.

Turned off water to softener and took it out of service. Ordered 2 plastic clips and 2 O-rings on Friday evening, May 1. All items were listed as "in stock." Total cost was $44.55, including shipping cost of $7.75. On Monday, May 4 two clips and one O-ring were shipped. Second O-ring was shipped the following day, May 5. Received 2 clips and 1 O-ring on May 8, but that would not permit repair of softener, so I waited and waited and waited with softener out of service. Second O-ring finally arrived on May 19--some 18 days after order was placed and 14 days after it was shipped. I never would have placed the order had I known that $7.75 in shipping costs would translate to 18 days for delivery. According to the Operating Service Standards for USPS, had that simple O-ring been inserted into an envelope with a first class stamp, it would have been delivered in not longer than 3 days. So I rate what should have been a rather easy repair job as very difficult and the time to repair as 18 days. I am extremely disappointed and will choose a different part supplier in the future.

Remove the top back lid/unlatch 2 clips. Unscrew the small brine tube nut (white) from left side of control unit. Cut the tube to remove nut from old tube with utility knife. Keep nut for use on new assembly. Not included. Remove brine well cover. Pull the tube out of the top and from behind resin tank and remove assembly from brine well. Discarded the old brine valve assembly. Removed the bit of old tube from the nut, w/ utility knife. Careful not to damage the old nut. Snake the new brine tube from front right side through the back of the resin tank to the old hole on the left. Follow the old path. Insert the new brine tube into the top section through the hole the old one came out of. Attached nut to new brine tube. Screw nut/new brine tube to the connector of control unit. Small fingers help. Adjust/slide the float assembly 6-8 inches inches above the valve, e.g. Styrofoam/Metal Weight slides up/down the white stalk. Re-inserted the brine assembly into the brine tank. Replace top. Manually regenerate to make sure new brine assembly is not leaking and filling the brine tank properly. Done.

It was very simple to replace the broken clip, the only problem was to figure out where is the position of the bypass valve to let water to go into the tank, the seal with the instruction in the valve is missed. Thanks, I am very happy with the GE water softening system

Just slipped the nut on the trimmed-up water tube and tightened it up with an ajustable wrench. This was my Grandson's first attempt at plumbing, we had unhooked the hot water heater and water softener, moved several galv. water lines some of them took a lot of muscle however we used a little to much on the water softener and broke that nut right in half. I was then able to show him what the by-pass was for and we finished our project. It was a good week-end with my Grandson. Thanks Grandma

I initially thought is was the control board, so I ordered one. After installing the board, I still had the problem - $225.00 down the drain. I then watched the gears closely, and realized that the gear on the motor was skipping teeth on the main gear. I removed the motor, the main gear, and the switch, and noticed that the teeth on the main gear were worn, and not meshing well with the motor gears. I ordered the main gear, the motor (the original one was rusted, I didn't want to take any chances), the switch (the actuator was worn) and the plastic bearing for the main gear. Replacing all of the above parts took about 15 minutes. The main thing is to install the main gear in the same orientation as the original - otherwise the timing will be off. Once everything was reassembled, I turned the water on, and kicked off the recharge cycle. The "ERR 1" code was gone, and the water softener has been running for a week. My advice is to watch the gears closely, and start there. It would have been much cheaper to replace the mechanical parts first.

Followed diagnostic instructions in users' manual. Access to turbine requires disconnecting softener from water supply, so both brine valve clips must be removed. Not possible without breaking them. After that, the job was straight forward. Removed a small particle that was jamming the turbine, and reconnected. LESSON LEARNED: ORDER BRINE VALVE CLIPS BEFORE STARTING REPAIR.

open the box, open the bag, install clip

Turned off water supply, Drained off water pressure in system, Removed bypass manifold clips removed manifold, removed old part, inserted new part, put touch of Silicone grease on O rings reassembled manifold and clips, turned on water, Done.

turn off water & relieve pressure. Remove clips with needle nose.Separate softener from supply line assembly. Remove oring and clean with clean rag. Liberally apply silicone grease to oring & 0ring seat. I used stopcock grease non-toxic (Amazon.com) . You need this heavy grease. Join softener & supply line assembly. line up install clip with fingers. Turn on water & Check for leaks. I had a very very slow drip but it quit overnight. My second leak of this type, You probably don't need orings (expensive) Youwill probably only need the stopcock grease.. Key is turning off water and relieving the pressure. I tried it by using bypass valve only and broke a clip trying to remove it. You must relieve the pressure to remove the clip!

Had to empty all the Salt out of the unit to lighten it's weight so I could move it. Tried to remove plastic clips on O Ring area but broke one. Once clips were removed I pulled unit away from the by-pass valve and replaced and re-greased the new O rings. Pushed unit back and secured clips, finished. No Leaks!

Installed the nozzle/venturi assembly and a new seal kit using the included instructions. Ran the water softener through the cycle and verified it worked.

Trouble shoot non moving rotary valve - motor slipping internally - probably missing gear teeth inside assembly. Repair: 1) Bypass Water Softener and turn off water supply just to be sure no pressure in valve. 2) Start a recharge and cycle through manually (or remove motor and turn rotary valve by hand) to vent water pressure. 3) Remove motor screws and put aside. 4) Remove control circuit plastic cover to access wires to motor. Note which side of wire from motor goes to which contact on circuit board. 5) Unplug old motor wires with small needle nose pliers and replug new wires, making sure they snap down securely. 6) Remove rest of motor plate 2 main screws, with last screw that goes through micro-switch - do not drop plastic spacer on top of micro-switch. 7) Follow valve seal instructions provided in seal kit - remove screws for valve body (tight so use small socket set, not a screwdriver), remove parts, clean seats well, lube seals with provided silicon lube, replace seals with groove side down. Put Teflon guides on seals, and lube valve plate. 8) Reassemble - don't forget wave spring, like I did, between valve and top of valve body. Evenly torque screws down until tight. 9) Rotate valve gear so "S" for service is near the back plastic peg with the triangle on it. (about 2pm position). 10) put micorswitch in place and carefully place spacer on top of microswitch before putting screw though motor plate. Install other 2 screws and tighten all three screws. Install motor with two screws. Reassemble cover over control panel, put control panel back on chassis. 11) Test by running through recharge system making sure it ends at "service" position ("S" at back right plastic peg / edge of motor plate on right side). 12) If not, put it back to service position and reset by changing and re-selecting F39 factory settings. NOTE: You can download the manual from GE website, covering how to get to factory settings menu. Very helpful to have the manual handy.