WTW8040DW0 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

Watched a video on the internet.

1.) disconnect power to your washer. Turn off water supply and disconnect from the washer.

open the washer top and remove plastic cap from the wash plate

2.) using 7/16 socket, remove bolt from the wash plate. If you can't remove it with a socket , I recommend using impact wrench.

3.) remove wash plate ( you might need to spray penetrating oil or wd40 inside the bolt hole to loosen it.
Check to make sure the wash plate gear grooves are not worn down, if they are, replace it.

4.) using your Maytag specific spaner nut wrench, remove the spaner nut from the shaft of the gear case. This should be right underneath where the wash plate was. If you can't turn it by hand , use a rubber mallet or hammer to encourage it.

5.) some people remove the wash basket at this point. I don't think it is necessary.

6.) close your washing machine. Tape the top closed to keep it from flying open. Tilt your washer back and prop it up where you have access to the underside of the washing machine.

7) remove motor rotor bolt and pull rotor off of the motor.

8.) disconnect the two wire connectors that supply power to motor. using a socket, remove bolts that are keeping motor attached to the gear case.

9.) Now that the gear case is all the is remaining on the underside, you can remove the 4 bolts that are holding the gear case to the washer. Now try to pull gear case out.

10.) if gearcase will not pull out, lower washer back to upright position. Spray penetrating oil or wd40 around the shaft of the gearcase and allow it to sit for 5-10 minutes. Using a hammer, lightly tap on the shaft of the gearcase and it should now fall out. ( you might have to apply penetrating oil again, or apply more force with the hammer.

11.) reinstall motor to new gearcase. Insert new gear case to the washer. Reinstall bolts and reconnect power supply wires.

12. ReInstall spaner nut inside the washer, reinstall wash plate.

Went on u tube saw different video to How disassemble the top to have access to the rod. Changing one by one those rod I was in need of my wife to hold the cover while I was changing the rod.... order for suspension rod kit. Reassemble the top by sliding the cover and to snap. Screw back the panel. And it solve the problem. My wife was really happy so me. It can be done by anybody but first go on the internet to get a idea.

Removed two screws on back of lid to raise top removed tub one bolt and one spanernut pulled tub lowered top reinstalled screws laid washer down to get to bottom of washer unplugged wiring removed four bolts pulled gear box and motor removed motor from gear box installed motor on new gear box reassemble washer

This is a very simple repair. My lid was severely cracked on the back left corner where there seems to be a lot of pressure/torque required to shut the lid. There is a metal L-shaped "tab" that inserts into the lid on both sides of the back edge of the lid. The lid is attached to these metal tabs with two screws for each side. My cracked lid had resulted in the lid breaking off of the metal tab with the screws still anchored into the metal tab.

Make sure screws have been removed from the metal tabs on both sides. Do not remove metal tabs- leave them attached to the washing maching (otherwise, you will not be able to attach the lid back onto the machine). Slide the lid over the tabs. There are square-shaped spaces along the edge of the lid where the tabs slide into the lid. Re-screw the screws into the lid, attaching the lid to the tabs through pre-drilled holes on the sides of the lid. It may take a little time to make sure the screws are properly inserted into the lid and tab screw holes. Tighten up and you're finished.

DIY'er working on a Maytag Centennial type washing machine should be aware that replacing a a transmission or agitator due to worn out splines is only half a job done well. I originally replaced my transmission due to worn splines, only to discover later that the worn agitator splines caused the new transmission splines to wear out at an accelerated rate. Transmission and Agitator should be replaced together, along with a new Agitator mounting bolt. There are plenty of video's online of how to do this repair so I won't get into that here. Just wanted to drop the above sage advice. Transmissions for these washers aren't cheap.

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

watch utube instruction.easy repair

slipped the new drain hose on and with locking plyers slipped the wire clap in place after three trys

I followed the instructions, however I did not have a spot to hold the bar temporarily, so I drilled a hole in the corner frame to hook them in at the front of the machine. All else was easy and according to the video.

Machine works great now.

Removed four screws,slid old lid off then slid new lid on and tightened four screws back,first lid was broken upon delivery, getting my refund has been a nightmare,still haven't been refunded,it's going on 3 weeks,they told me 72 hours,other than that..

Disconnected water and unplugged. Took off top and control panel. Replaced water inlet valve with new one. Simple plug and play connections. It was easy to see the old valve was bad with rust and sediment collecting on hot side.

Per instruction sent with purchase

Removed two screws that held the control panel from the back with a power drill. Pop the control panel loose with a screwdriver from the top of the machine with the quick disconnects. After turning both the hot and cold water off I remove the hoses with pliers removed two screws with the power drill that hold the water inlet valve in place disconnected the wire harness plug And removed water inlet valve swap, the original harness to the new water inlet valve and follow the steps backwards to finish

Remove top of washer suspension
Rod goes on side of tub .