WTW7040DW0 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

1.) disconnect power to your washer. Turn off water supply and disconnect from the washer.

open the washer top and remove plastic cap from the wash plate

2.) using 7/16 socket, remove bolt from the wash plate. If you can't remove it with a socket , I recommend using impact wrench.

3.) remove wash plate ( you might need to spray penetrating oil or wd40 inside the bolt hole to loosen it.
Check to make sure the wash plate gear grooves are not worn down, if they are, replace it.

4.) using your Maytag specific spaner nut wrench, remove the spaner nut from the shaft of the gear case. This should be right underneath where the wash plate was. If you can't turn it by hand , use a rubber mallet or hammer to encourage it.

5.) some people remove the wash basket at this point. I don't think it is necessary.

6.) close your washing machine. Tape the top closed to keep it from flying open. Tilt your washer back and prop it up where you have access to the underside of the washing machine.

7) remove motor rotor bolt and pull rotor off of the motor.

8.) disconnect the two wire connectors that supply power to motor. using a socket, remove bolts that are keeping motor attached to the gear case.

9.) Now that the gear case is all the is remaining on the underside, you can remove the 4 bolts that are holding the gear case to the washer. Now try to pull gear case out.

10.) if gearcase will not pull out, lower washer back to upright position. Spray penetrating oil or wd40 around the shaft of the gearcase and allow it to sit for 5-10 minutes. Using a hammer, lightly tap on the shaft of the gearcase and it should now fall out. ( you might have to apply penetrating oil again, or apply more force with the hammer.

11.) reinstall motor to new gearcase. Insert new gear case to the washer. Reinstall bolts and reconnect power supply wires.

12. ReInstall spaner nut inside the washer, reinstall wash plate.

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

Removed two screws on back of lid to raise top removed tub one bolt and one spanernut pulled tub lowered top reinstalled screws laid washer down to get to bottom of washer unplugged wiring removed four bolts pulled gear box and motor removed motor from gear box installed motor on new gear box reassemble washer

DIY'er working on a Maytag Centennial type washing machine should be aware that replacing a a transmission or agitator due to worn out splines is only half a job done well. I originally replaced my transmission due to worn splines, only to discover later that the worn agitator splines caused the new transmission splines to wear out at an accelerated rate. Transmission and Agitator should be replaced together, along with a new Agitator mounting bolt. There are plenty of video's online of how to do this repair so I won't get into that here. Just wanted to drop the above sage advice. Transmissions for these washers aren't cheap.

slipped the new drain hose on and with locking plyers slipped the wire clap in place after three trys

Removed two screws that held the control panel from the back with a power drill. Pop the control panel loose with a screwdriver from the top of the machine with the quick disconnects. After turning both the hot and cold water off I remove the hoses with pliers removed two screws with the power drill that hold the water inlet valve in place disconnected the wire harness plug And removed water inlet valve swap, the original harness to the new water inlet valve and follow the steps backwards to finish

Disconnected water and unplugged. Took off top and control panel. Replaced water inlet valve with new one. Simple plug and play connections. It was easy to see the old valve was bad with rust and sediment collecting on hot side.

I watched a YouTube video first. Followed instructions exactly and had washer going in 30 minutes!!!! Part that I ordered was an exact fit! Thanks to partselect.com!

HAD A HARD TIME FINDING ANY YOU-TUBE VIDEO THAT SHOWS MY EXACT MACHINE. MAYBE BECAUSE IT IS ONLY 3 YEARS OLD. FINALLY FOUND A PARTS DIAGRAM THAT SHOWED LOCATION OF CLIPS TO RELEASE THE CONTROL CONSOLE FROM THE TOP DECK. ONCE I GOT THE CONSOLE FREE, IT WAS ONLY A FEW MINUTES TO REPLACE THE BOARD AND CONNECT BACK UP. MY MACHINE HAS NO KNOBS ON THE FACE SO I COULDN'T USE THE "STANDARD" CALIBRATION TECHNIQUE. INSTRUCTIONS WITH NEW PART SAYS THAT RUNNING IN "CLEANING MODE" WILL CALIBRATE. i TRIED THAT BUT HAD TO QUIT AS WATER WAS LEAKING FROM THE BOTTOM OF MACHINE. THE NEXT DAY, I BAILED AT LEAST 40 GALLONS OF WATER OUT SO I COULD MOVE THE MACHINE OUT TO LOOK FOR THE LEAK. WHEN I REMOVED THE BACK AND TRIED THE MACHINE, I GOT AND F1, E3 ERROR CODE. SINCE I HAD THE WATER SHUT OFF, I FIGURED THIS WAS THE PROBLEM. BUT MACHINE WOULD ONLY PUMP THE REST OF THE WATER OUT, FLASH THE E3,F1 CODE OVER AND OVER. FOUND A YOU-TUBE VIDEO COVERING A MAYTAG WASHER WITH THE SAME SYMPTOMS. SIMPLE FIX WAS TO REMOVE THE AIR TUBE FROM THE CONTROL BOARD, BLOW INTO IT TO REMOVE ANY OBSTRUCTIONS AND WATER, RECONNECT AND DONE. SURELY THIS WOULD BE TOO SIMPLE BUT WHEN I PLUGGED THE MACHINE IN AGAIN AND HIT THE POWER BUTTON, EVERYTHING LIT UP LIKE IT SHOULD. I WENT BACK TO THE UTILITY SETTING FOR CLEANING THE WASHER. THIS TIME, NO WATER LEAKS AND EVERYTHING WORKED FOR THE 1 HOUR PLUS CLEANING CYCLE. I NEVER DID FIND ANYTHING LEAKING IN THE BACK OR UNDER THE TUB. I PUT ALL BACK TOGETHER AND MACHINE WORKS LIKE A DREAM.
REMEMBER- CONSOLE CLIPS ARE ON THE FRONT CORNERS OF CONTROL CONSOLE AND REQUIRE A FLAT THIN AND NARROW BLADE TO RELEASE THEM, SUCH AS A TABLE KNIFE. THERE ARE 2 SCREWS TO REMOVE FROM THE BACK PANEL THAT ARE INTO THE PLASTIC CONSOLE. REPLACEMENT SHOULD BE A 10 MINUTE JOB IF YOU COULD GET INSTRUCTIONS.

I removed the 2 hose clamps connecting to the pump, removed 3 screws holding pump in place, and disconnected 2 wires plugged into pump. Put the new pump on in reverse order.

UNPLUG WASHER FROM WALL PLUG
Watch u tube on how to remove top and also cover on top circuit compartment
First find the service book taped inside front. PLUGand read to read codes
call up the error codes flashing
the code indicated a defective lid latch.UNPUG WASHER
went through testing the switch one of the contacts was defective and intermittent.
UNPUG WASHER unpug J connect from circuit board remove wiring and connect from lid
new wiring harness goes back same as old one and mount new lid switch. done

Removed three screws on back to open top panel, used small vice grip to pull on suspension rod to unhook and remove from the drum. Remove and replaced one at a time so the rods keep drum suspended and prevent from dropping in the cabinet . Reinstalled top panel and done .Very easy completed in about 20 minutes.

Turned off power and water. Removed hoses/Unplugged power. Removed screws to open and access control panel. Removed existing valve first by pinching off 6 wire connectors then screws securing valve to washer base. At this point, I replaced with new valve and reattached everything. I also added screen washers to both hoses as I suspect it was built up debris in original valve impeding water flow through valve that led to problem…

Used a pocket knife to remove the cap covering the washer plate screw. Used socket wrench to remove the screw. It required some torque to remove, and it was necessary to hold the tub to prevent it from spinning while the screw was being loosened. Don't order the wash plate screw separately. The wash plate came with a screw.

Removed old washer plate with 7/16 socket, holding the drum so I could loosen nut. Thought I would have to replace spanner nut, but did not need to. Put new washer plate on and tightened the bolt holding the drum at the same time