WFW72HEDW0 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

First some background. The door locked up the first time when appliance was less than one year old. The "Maytag Repairman" finally succeeded in getting the door open after propping up the front of the machine and fumbling around underneath for a period of time and then assured me the problem was solved. The problem recurred less than a year later, and I called another repairman who seemed to have an easier time of it, and charged $293.42 to replace the water level switch. About six months later the same problem recurred and I took the cover off the top of the machine and found there a booklet "For Service Technician's Use Only". VERY HELPFUL. Told how extremely easy it was to unlock door - took about five seconds. Replacing the switch itself involved pulling one tubing off and disconnecting one elec connection from old switch and replacing on new switch. Total cost $50 plus a few dollars for shipping.

Turned washer on its side. Pulled the bottom plate off. Then unplugged the electrical lines. Then unbolted the drain pump and bolted the new drain pump in. Then reversed the process.

Watch a video about replacing this latch which made it very simple to do. Performed exactly as the video instructed.

Cleaned all hoses and filter with no success in the washer draining. So ordered drain pump and removed four bolts and the drain hose and the pump was off. Reversed the process with new pump and it’s good as new.

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

After finding the correct part, I watched a video Parts Select had posted showing how to replace it. Things went smoothly. Took my time and was careful and now the washing machine is running just fine again. Neede a 5'16" hex wrench and I used a drill with hex attached to remove the back of the washing machine. Went smoothly. Watch the video!

Using the Torx Screwdriver, we removed the door from the unit. Then we removed all of the screws on the inside of the washer door. After that we flipped it over and opened it up exposing the inside. We couldn't separate them entirely because there was a screw under the latch piece that we couldn't figure out how to get to. However with all the screws out on the inside of the door, we did have enough room to open it up and access the place cover that holds the hinges in. Once we accessed that we removed the roller tips from the old unit and placed them on the new one. Then we reversed the process. With a couple screws in we realized we had put the hinge in reversed from what it needed to be, so we reopened it and switched it around. Then completed replacing all the screws and reattached it to the washer. It opens and closes perfectly and we saved a couple hundred dollars for sure, as the quote to come out had been a $150 trip charge.

Maytag Washer MHW5100DW

Symptom: front loader door won't open

Error code at the beginning of a wash cycle: F5 E3 means your door latch isn't working properly which is why the door won't open.

1) First try to reset the electronics:

..... Power unit down by unplugging for one (1) minute.
..... Power unit up by reconnecting power.
..... Restart a new cycle.

Result: the door remained locked with the same error code.

2) Next manually unlock the door to see if the lock will reset and work normally again.

..... Power unit down by unplugging.
..... Remove the 3 screws holding the top cover attached to the
back.
..... Lift the top cover slightly to disengage and pull back 6 inches.
..... Use a flashlight to see the positioning of the door lock and the
manual plastic unlock tab on top.
..... Wiggle your arm down through the narrow opening on top and
pull up on the small plastic pull tab to unlock the door.
..... Power unit up by reconnecting power.
..... Restart a new cycle.

Result: the door remained locked with the same error code.

3) Finally, replace the lock assembly

..... Power unit down by unplugging.
..... Wiggle your arm down through the narrow opening on top and
pull up on the small plastic pull tab to unlock the door.
..... With the door now open, remove the wire spring retaining ring
around the rubber door gasket. On either side of the spring is a
place to grab it with needle nose pliers to assist in removing it.
..... Remove the 2 screws holding the lock assembly to the front
panel.
..... Pull back the gasket slightly near the lock assembly and
unplug the 2 electrical connections to the lock assembly.

..... Replace the lock assembly.
..... Pull back the gasket slightly near the lock assembly and plug
the 2 electrical connections to the lock assembly.
..... Use the 2 screws to attach the lock assembly to the front panel.
..... Attach the spring retaining ring around the door gasket. On
either side of the spring is a place to grab it with needle nose
pliers to assist in installing it. I also used a vise grip pliers to
help hold the spring retaining ring in place as I stretched the
spring. This step was the biggest problem for me and consumed
the most time.
..... Attach the top cover with the 3 holding screws
..... Power unit up by reconnecting power.
..... Restart a new wash cycle.

Result: the lock test cycle completed with no error codes and the wash cycle started normally.

Nothing to it. Just remember to put the insert in the knob, NOT on the selector stem. Line up the flat part of the insert with the flat part of the stem and push the knob in place.

Don NOT ram it on the selector stem. When it's seated, don't push any more. That's all there is to it. It works. If the pointer on the knob indicates the selector is lined up correctly, but it isn't, the problem is the selector, not the knob.

We turned the washer on its side, took off the bottom, and replaced the pump. Washer still would not work, so we called the company, to find the restart, after 30 minutes on the phone and still no answer, we wiggled the wiring, the restart was on the top, rear, left side of the washer, a small ground, we unplugged it, and then replugged it, it started right up, and no problem, washer has worked great since!

I hit spin and drain cycle. Disconnect the power cord from the wall. Remove the back cover. Stuck a bowl under the filter/ strainer. Unscrewed the filter/strainer let the rest of the water drain. Disconnect the pump /drain hose. Disconnect the wire harness from pump and removed the pump bolts. Replaced the pump reassembled.

I thought it was the pump and ordered one. After I ordered it I decided to look up online how to get the error code. Itsaid to push any three buttons (except off and on)
In a row in succession twice. So one two three one two three. Walla! It worked. The codes popped up on the panel. I looked the codes up online. Itsaid the codes meant the hot and cold water were not filling at the same rate and the washing machine by default shut the system down and has only the pump run for 8 minutes.
The remedy - turn the dial to a new setting. It worked!! Once I turned the dial all the lights came on and the machine was back to normal. Unfortunately when I called part select a few hours after I order the part there was no answer and they shipped the part express the next day. They are letting me return it but only partial payment of what I paid. About one third of my cost and I had to pay return shipping of $13.00.

My washer started flashing the code E1-F9 one day mid-cycle and locked the clothes inside. Google suggested this could be a pump filter issue and I tried at first to clean out the filter as suggested. (on this model, you have to take the back off to reach the filter.) This didn't solve the problem, but since I could now clearly see how it pumped, I noticed nothing was pumping out through the hose and bought the pump part.
This is an easier job if you can tip the entire washer on its side and haven't set it up as a stacked unit (which I had). Disconnect all power sources first and the outflow hose. Two of the four bolts that need to come off are in the front and all of them needed a drill's power to pull them out. For at least three of the bolts I'd recommend an extension on the drill bit, but I didn't have room for this since I tipped the entire stacked unit on its side.
After that, I was done in less than 10 minutes and the bolts drilled in formed the seal so it didn't leak. It worked and it's pumping.
But! This model seems to have a lot of other issues. Mine will only work on Heavy load without flashing other error codes, and it never washes in the fabric softener... that just sits there.

1. Unplug power, turn off water supply valves and remove water supply hoses from washer.
2. Remove three screws on back of washer for top cover.
3. Slide top cover back 1/2-3/4 inch and remove from machine
4. Remove water inlet valve set screw to left of hot water supply connector.
5. From the inside of the washer, slide the inlet valve to the left, disconnect wiring, and wire clips.
6. Disconnect hoses from back of detergent dispenser.
7. Connect hoses from new inlet valve to back of detergent dispenser
8. Connect wiring, and wiring clips to new inlet valve.
9. Slide inlet valve back into place and install set screw.
10. Replace top cover and install three screws for top cover
11. Recommend replacing supply hoses (mine leaked, and were approx. 5 years old).
12. Install water supply, turn on water, check for leaks. Plug in washing machine.

Video demonstration: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yH0TppbTtI0