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WTW4855HW2
WTW4855HW2 Whirlpool Washer
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Diagrams for WTW4855HW2
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$39.63
The washer drive pulley kit is also known as a replacement clutch assembly, or a cam kit. The drive pulley is found at the bottom of your washing machine, mounted to the drive shaft. Common symptoms i...
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This is a genuine OEM door lock assembly for a top load washing machine. This part is also known as a door switch, and it is used to communicate whether the door to the washer is opened or closed. If ...
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$11.98
This 18 ml bottle of white appliance touch-up paint is used to cover scratches or marks on your appliance. The white touch-up paint can be used on refrigerators, microwaves, ranges, clothes dryers, an...
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$52.50
This 6-pin shift actuator controls the washer’s transmission, allowing it to switch between agitating and spinning. It’s a common fix for washers that won’t spin, get stuck mid-cycle, or make odd nois...
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This insert is sold individually. Knob not included. Knob is sold separately.
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$7.60
Sold individually. NOTE: The color on the screw may not be the same as the image, but will still function the same.
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This agitator is for washers.
Agitator rotates back and forth to move the clothes inside the tub to clean the load.
Unplug the washer before installing this part. Wear work gloves to protect your hands.
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This washing machine cleaner includes three time-release tablets designed to remove odor-causing residues, grime, and buildup from high-efficiency and top-load washing machines. The tablets work by cl...
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$7.60
This gray and white washer lid bumper contains a rubber bottom and is sold individually.
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$62.61
This inlet valve helps your washer fill with hot and cold water during each cycle. If your machine isn’t getting water or shows an error, this part might be the fix. It’s easy to plug in with the incl...
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Questions and Answers
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Common Problems and Symptoms for WTW4855HW2
Viewing 16 of 16Will not agitate
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Spinning Issues
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Leaking
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Will Not Start
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Locking Issues
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Noisy and Marks Left on Clothes
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Cycle Not Advancing
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Shaking and Moving
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Spins slowly
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Lid or door won’t close
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Will not drain
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Burning smell
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Water Filling Issues
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Draining Issues
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No hot or cold water
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Timer Not Working
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
- Customer:
- David from BLOOMINGTON, IN
- Parts Used:
- W10721967
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Noise, grinding sounds. Wash tub stopped turning but motor and cycles kept functioning. Process of elimination, must be the clutch assembly.
Easy, just followed the repair video. Recommend also ordering the drive belt. Bought one locally during my repair.
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- Customer:
- John from BEAVER DAMS, NY
- Parts Used:
- W11307244
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
latch switch was not working
unfasten top from back, slide top forward and lift up, remove switch and cable (one piece), in stall new switch and cable, put top down and slide back, reinstall screws.
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- Customer:
- Craig from ANAHEIM, CA
- Parts Used:
- W11454372
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
The upper bearing in the gearcase became rusty & very noisy due to shaft seal leakage.
Changing the gear case is a basic R and R operation since the gear case is a complete assembly riveted together. It is a bit challenging though getting to it because you have to totally disassemble the entire washer nearly every nut, bolt and screw. Fortunately the washer is fairly easy to work on and I am very mechanically inclined, but
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I did cheat a bit by watching some U-tube videos first. I couldn't find the same exact model washer as mine on U-tube but there were enough similar units to obtain the basic procedure. A thing I do when disassembling things is to take pictures of the way it's put together before removing stuff. It goes without saying that you first have to disconnect the power, the water hoses and it helps to get the washer out away from the wall so you can work around it. You have to remove the top, back panels, and the inner and outer tubs first. After removing the inner and outer tubs I turned the washer upside down in order to gain access to the gear case so I wouldn't have to stand on my head or lay down. Remove everything attached to the gear case (take picture) and use a strap wrench (or a strong friend) to hold the large pulley while removing the retaining nut. To remove the condenser (large round thing in black plastic retainer) rotate it counter clockwise and lift out, it doesn't snap out. I was very happy to see that the new gear case came with the shaft seal already installed so with a small amount of liquid dish soap around the outside of the rubber it allowed a nice slip fit back into the outer tub. All the parts that were removed pretty much will only fit one way so you don't have to worry too much about how everything goes back together. After reassembly and hooking up the washer again be sure to perform the calibration procedure before you turn on the water. Instructions came in the box with the gear case. Here is a side bar: I am 76, my grandson and I replaced the gear case in just a few hours, It's no big deal. Now for the interesting part, when I ordered the replacement gear case by the old part number I was told it had been superseded by a new number so when the new unit arrived I discovered that the shaft and seal looked different so hopefully the water leaking into bearing won't happen again. I was going to drill the old gear case apart and replace the bad bearing so I am glad I didn't because the shaft and seal would continue to leak and ruin the bearing again so don't try that. One thing I would like to mention about this company from which I ordered the part was the amazing delivery, only 36 hours. I ordered the part Sunday evening late and Tuesday morning early it arrived. Wow, blew me away, also I live in California and apparently the company is in Nova Scotia, no sales tax, Woo Hoo.
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