Models > SWTX21QM

SWTX21QM Speed Queen Washer

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Diagrams for SWTX21QM

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This washer is 3/4 inches in diameter.
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This metal retaining ring is well under an inch long. Use it for your Maytag brand clothes washer or your clothes dryer.
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This part replaces older two terminal switches.
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This is a multi-use screw and can be used on a variety of appliances. The measurements of the screw are: 8/18 x 3/8. *Please note: the screw is sold individually. Refer to the manual provided by the m...
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This hose clamp extends from half an inch to an inch in diameter. It is made entirely of metal and is intended for use with Maytag brand washing machines.
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This v-style spin and agitate belt is 28-3/4 inches long and half of an inch wide. It is all black in color and made entirely of rubber.
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Sold individually. NOTE: The color on the screw may not be the same as the image, but will still function the same.
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$11.10
This hose clamp is sold individually.
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This kit comes with hub, seal head, gasket, seal shroud, seal seat, screw, spline insert, drive bell and seal.
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This high pressure inlet hose washer is black. It is an inch in diameter, made of rubber, and used with many washing machines, refrigerators, and dishwashers.
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This screw is sold individually.
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Common Problems and Symptoms for SWTX21QM

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Noisy
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Leaking
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Burning smell
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Will not agitate
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Spins slowly
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Will not drain
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How to fix it
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Customer:
Don from Jacksonville, FL
Parts Used:
W10169313
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver
Switch sticking in on position
FIRST unplug dryer from electrical source, CAUTION, the top of this dryer does not open with clips, do not pry on top to open! On the front of the dryer look under the lower panel, and find two screws, one on the left side, and one on the right, remove these screws, and pull slightly down on panel to remove. Behind this panel find two s crews holding the door panel, one on the left, and one on the right, remove the left, and support the door panel while removing the right side. Gently pull the bottom of door panel outward, and the clips on top of door panel will unhinge from top, carefully rotate left side of door panel to floor, and note the wire connections on switch, and orientation of switch, then unplug wires, and move door panel to a comfortable working positon. Door must be open to remove switch, then depress the two plastic retaining keepers on each side of switch, and push switch through toward door. Replace with new switch, reconnect the wires, and reassymble in reverse order. Remember, door assymbly must be inserted in dryer top at an angle, and then bottom rotated downward, and bottom panel nylon guildes inserted into door panel bottom.
99 of 133 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
HOWARD from CORTLAND, OH
Parts Used:
R9900552
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
1- 2 hours
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
The Seal On The Bottom Of The Tub Was Leaking
Removed the front of the washer, then lifted the top up and held it up with a prop. Pulled the agitator straight up and started the disasembly. Using the photos in the hub and seal kit was a big help. The large nut on the output shaft had to be cut off with my dremel tool and the hub removed with a wheeler puller. Assembly was pretty much straight forward. Primed the pump and started the machine for the stated time and was a sucess.
33 of 42 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
mike from hull, IA
Parts Used:
WP40004201P
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
More than 2 hours
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
Bearing went out causing lots of noise.
This is not a bad repair, but give yourself some time. I did not have to take the tranny and motor out, but the inner and outer tub and all related parts had to come out, along with the outer tub base. If you are replacing the tub bearing, you HAVE to order the seal kit. Don't try to skimp like I did, since you will need the seal kit as t his is what causes that bearing to fail in the first place. We forgot how quiet the washer was after I fixed it, and it saved us from buying a new washer since we were ready to say the heck with it and buy a new pair. You might need an 1.5 inch socket to get the big nut off the spindle, but I was able to get with a visegrip and hammer. The nice thing about this repair is even if you screw it up, you won't have water all over the place because of the seal design. I just checked under the washer a few times for the first few weeks and all seems fine.
24 of 26 people found this instruction helpful.
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